Please note that the PICTURE UPLOAD function is not working. The iBoats Forum Moderators are working with the system administration folks at the parent company to get the issue resolved. This happened about a year ago and here we are again. In the meantime you can post photos as links to a picture hosting site of your choice. We are sorry about the inconvenience and will advise when the issue is resolved. Thank you for your patience.
OK - So, you will probably be replacing the TCP sensor and then seeing if the soft alarm goes away. If it does not, then see if you have the same characteristic with the Knock Sensor & Knock Retard readings on a trial run.
Some of the prices of the V-P sensors are a little scary . . . but...
Also, just a thought . . . Since it has been such a short time of ownership, your state may have a lemon law that may apply to Boat/RV purchases. That might be worth checking out. :unsure:
You probably need the service Volvo-Penta manual for your engine.
A DVM (multimeter) would be useful in measuring the voltage as you continue diagnostics. (Also get some alligator clip leads)
Bummer . . .
Not sure Taylor Industries would have something from that era, but you could certainly start there. Great Lakes Skipper as well. Then there are salvage yards.
I have seen some boat glass replacement companies on the Internet, but mostly flat glass. Stuff like this will come up...
Well, it is certainly not what is shown in the pictures o_O
You would want to hollow those holes out to fresh glass and then bevel the holes inside and out. Then glass over to fill the holes inside and out. Stitched cloth on the top layer inside and out and a mix of PB and CSM at the core...
The 5V sensor reference is not a sensor it is a voltage source for the sensors. If it does not read 5.0 volts, then the data (voltage) from the sensors using that voltage reference will be off. I am not sure which sensors are using VR #1 vs. VR #2
I see the knock retard going up to 5 degrees...
The 5V Sensor Reference #2 is low . . . 4.17 volts vs. 5.01 volts for the Reference #1. It would be best to get that fixed. It could be a faulty sensor bringing the voltage down.
Is there a trim sender that is not connected or not working?
Also, keep in mind that the Bravo 3 propellers are 'matched sets' and the 24 pitch is for the overall set. Individually, you will find the outer propeller has more pitch than the inner propeller. So, you really want to find a matched set.
The first thing that strikes me is the Sensor Supply voltage #2. That voltage looks low, but I am wondering if it is the data from a previous fault. Perhaps you can post some of the current data, or even a recording of the data while the engine is running.
If you have a recording of the data...
Wait a minute . . .
You want to upgrade your boat and are considering a boat that hit a rock, the outdrive is damaged, and you are concerned about doing a compression test on the engine?
Don't waste your time. I would suspect for the time and money that it would take to put it all back in...
Yes, when I pull the boat, I should be able to take the drives off, clean out any debris and backflush everything. If I have enough time, I might do the poor man's fix on the delayed shift.
Here are some before & after 'tying' the cooling systems together . . .
1,000 RPM . . .
2+ psi difference with Stbd higher.
less than 1 psi difference, stbd still higher
.
1800 RPM
Stbd still higher by 2+ psi
Stbd & port about even . . .
.
The stbd engine psi max'es out at 15-16 psi, while...
That is why I have the sea water strainers. I my area, it seems that stuff grows inside the outdrive water duct, dies over the winter, then detaches from the water duct the next season, where it blocks the intake line at the bell housing fitting. I've had this happen twice. Once was the...
I know that paint in the cool fuel was a problem with the Mercruisers, not thinking it would be the same for the Volvo-Penta engines.
Is the remedy a new fuel module?
Don’t know, I didn’t have the computer with me. Maybe this week I can do a computer recording.
I ran it for a couple of mins at 3800 and no Guardian mode. I bet if I went WOT it would go Guardian 🤔
Morning coffee epiphany. The flush line is only 3/4” ID, so it is a bit restrictive, but it seems to help.
With this - the bets on the ‘shell stuck at the bell housing’ are looking good. 🤣
