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I have been searching around for Prestolite pumps and the later style block that has the reverse lock incorporated. Unfortunately every place I have looked it is NLA. I am sure there is one somewhere.
Finding a complete pump will work but the block on the bottom has to have 2, 3/16”inverted...
Unfortunately, you have a cracked block. The crack is probably under the intake manifold. You did not say what engine you have and I am just assuming it is a Chevrolet. If there is no crack then there is a pin hole leak somewhere.
4.3 V6 flywheel housing. The same dimension for all V style engines from 1971 to current Alpha In line models also.
Some Ford model flywheel covers had 2 sets of dowel pins for use with Chevrolet engines.
The flat style distributor may not be available but the later style used on OMC and Volvo will fit. The internal parts should also be available from Crowley Marine who stocks obsolete OMC parts. Give it a try before you give up. Chrysler used Prestolite distributors on their auto and marine...
You may have to switch to electric tachometers. Mallory would be a good source.
Finding a new pair of mechanical tachometer drive distributors could be expensive.
Since it is obvious that the relay is being energized as AD suggested the green wire is in contact with a positive source.
Why not just bypass the green wire with a new one from the control to the down relay. Is the trim harness separate from the engine harness? Is the harness enclosed in a...
Question, have you ever rebuilt the Prestolite style hydraulic rams? Then you know about the thin outer housing.
If someone jumps the up solenoid while the drive is shifted to reverse the rams will explode if it has the early style lock valve.
The last generation of the Prestolite pumps had a...
Since you still have the original Prestolite system does the drive rise up when you shift to reverse? The blue wires from the Micro switch are supposed to prevent the pump from running in the up direction. If the pump tries to raise the drive while the valve is in the reverse mode and the...
If it was possible to leave the harbor on the good engine then try running the problem child once you are in open water to see how it does while planed out for 30 minutes.
Smart move, these things can become a Pandora’s Box once you start on them. 30 years ago it was no big deal because the special tools were still at my shop and genuine OMC parts were a phone call/fax away.
If you start having drive pump problems and you have about 6” in front of the...
One thing to look at, after both engines are up tp temperature and are idling remove the flame arrestors and look at the Venturi boosters. Look to see if fuel is bubbling from the boosters on the engine that is giving the trouble.
If so then it is gradually loading up with fuel.
How does the...
If the bearing flange is actually bound in the pivot housing then if you remove the large socket head bolts then the shaft and pivot housing may come out as 1 piece.
The gear is a press fit. You might have some luck with a gear puller that can reach around the remainder of the retainer and with the torx bolt removed and the puller against the shaft. Once the retainer and gear are removed then you can remove the pivot housing and try pulling the shaft out...
Like SD said about the ball gears they are close to replacement time.
The thing to be really cautious about is the shift cable. Hopefully it is not corroded in the intermediate housing where the outer jacket peals off of the core. In the past I have had to replace water pumps and ball gears...
If the bolt was turning easy and did not “bottom out” before it broke you could try a left hand drill bit with a guide to keep the bit centered it will back out. Otherwise if you cannot get it out the other 5 should hold things together.
Did the bolt break off flush with the adapter housing? If not there may be enough left to remove it with some vice grips with the ring removed or weld a nut to what is left on the broken piece.
No way that the retainer is bound up in the pivot housing. As far as the bearing retainer that may be all you will need to repair the drive along with the seals.
I have had the fun of the drive shaft corroded in the coupler a few times when I had my shop. A real PITA. We used a cutting...
The only way to separate the shaft from the engine is either a cutting torch or an abrasive saw blade on a reciprocating power saw. Go ahead and try removing the gear as the previous post first. You might luck out.
