Take your existing transducer and locate a space near the keel (centerline of the hull area) and adjacent to the transom inside the boat. Clean the spot on the hull thoroughly, and rough up the surfaces of that spot on the hull and the bottom of the transducer.
Get a JB weld package and weld...
I agree when not under load it can fool you. Possibly some of the winterization material has fouled one or more plugs. Pull them and see if any are wet after running the engine for a few minutes.
I have always heard that if installed in the reverse direction the blades will correct themselves. In some eccentric pumps I agree. I just redid my 2002 115 Merc and apparently that pump is used on numerous engines above and below that HP and there isn't enough room for the blades to reverse...
If you do try and expect to return, carefully install it, make a test run, if dissatisfied, remove it, clean it up like new and put it in the box. The dealer has to be able to sell it as a new, not used prop if he swaps with you for another.
I have a dozen + batteries in equipment plus spares on my farm. Just last month I realized that the normal discharge rate on my batteries, most are new or a year or so old, is much faster than I had anticipated. Makes no difference if the battery is installed in equipment or sitting on the...
Looking at a metals compatibility chart, Aluminum is a Group II metal. Metals in group II are Aluminum alloys, Zinc, Cadmium and Beryllium. With that said, a Cad plated steel screw would be your best bet as long as in the installation you don't disturb the Cad. plating on the bolt......which...
Sorry for the typo....yes its 2.33. Your boat is apples and oranges from mine. You are running a much different rig from mine. I can see where you need to drop pitch significantly to get positive response from that hull/load.
You mentioned fuel pump, yes its time for a repair kit as the...
You have a problem somewhere. If that 4 stroker has the 3.3 gearbox as my 2002 90 2 stroker, running on an aluminum 17.5' Fishmaster bass boat, just me, fuel and gear, I was running a 23P Ballistic 3 blade SS.....making the wake in my avatar....rpms in the 5600 area....right at 50 MPH.
Having said what you said about complexity in cleaning it out, knowing you are dealing with mud and a biodegradable insect, I'd do what you usually do with your boat and eventually it will get blown out. I hear you on the pests. I have a farm and they clog up everything and are good at ruining...
I pulled the drive gear out of my oil pump on a 2002 90 hp Merc. Went to 50:1 pre mix. Only thing I saw/felt/had different was a light puff of smoke when doing the (start of the) hole shot coming out of the no wake zone that I didn't have before with the 90:1 my service manual said my engine...
My Turning Point Hustler 4 blade aluminum props are ported....holes under the leading edge of the blade. As "alldodge" mentioned, getting the RPMs up fast gets the HP up fast and HP twists the prop shaft. The 4 blade has more bite but you need HP to drive that bite if you expect a fast HS...
I used water absorber fuel conditioners back in the late 1970's because I had a built in tank and worried about the subject.
What it got me was one day, in the middle of a large lake running at a good clip, the engine just died. My search results were that a blob of this goo you are talking...
Go-fast.com is what I use and some folks use a Merc. calculator as I read on here. The calculator is to analyze how well your prop is connecting to the water. It's blind in that it only responds to changes in the listed areas. Changing anything else disqualifies your answer which includes...
Nobody answered so I will. Yes parallel has been my experience with most floats on most engines both 2 and 4 stroke so I would think that is a good place to start. If you have WOT fuel issues, then allow more fuel to enter the carb which would be a slight tilting of the tip toward the carb...
If you go with the TP Hustler, you may get a ported prop. I have 4 or 5 of their props in 13+ diameters and they are all ported (holes under the leading edges of the blades. This improves the hole shot but you said yours was fine already.
The question is, how? You have to be going fast...
There is a guy who posts on here that uses Scott-Atwater in/as his Avatar. Other thing is that there are clubs formed around the brand that I have seen, and probably McCullough also. Just dig around the www and I am sure you will not only find any cross-reference, but probably the OEM part .
When I was a teenager (young and stupid....ill informed), dad had a 10 hp Scott-Atwater that I used and tinkered with frequently. Over the years, I can't tell you how many times I ran that engine for a brief period dry, or in the barrel in gear blowing most of the water out of it....well below...
Diodes have reverse leakage current usually in the Microamperes. Your internal battery normal discharge characteristic way outweighs that. I noticed for the first time...for some reason I decided to check everything...that in checking my batteries in everything, plus the new spares, they were...
