If you have a 160 stat, anytime there is a load on the engine it should run slightly hotter than 160. The hottest I ever get on mine (raw water cooled in salt) is approx 175 and that's after coming off plane, it will cool down to about 165 after idling for a few min.
Judging by the flappers you...
I have that same style on mine very common style. I coat em with Evinrude triple guard grease when installing & spray with corrosion x 2 times a year keeps away the rust from salt water…
Looking closer at pix flappers look overheated & warped but Elbows look good however I’d hook ‘em up to a water hose to see how they flow make sure they aren’t clogged. Lastly check for bubbles in the AF use clear hose to see if exhaust gas is getting into the coolant (leaky head gaskets). If...
WAG=Wild a-s-s guess
Flappers don’t cause overheats they get damaged due to running too hot (not enough water exiting to keep them cool). Do the clear hose test also if the elbows are more that 5 seasons used I’d change them. Is the boat kept in salt water? If so your water intakes might be...
This has the fume cartridges and N95 inserts but for grinding glass I'd use the big pink P-100 cartridges. I use it mostly when prepping the outdrive for anti fouling paint and painting it. I don't do the bottom, that's where I draw the line.
Look at your plugs first they can tell you a lot. Pinging can be tough to solve because it can be too much advance, lean fuel mix or even a slow to open auto choke that causes carbon build up which will cause chronic pinging. We had this very same problem on a ‘70 Ford with a 302. The choke...
I would first try changing the gasket under the sending unit for the gas gauge using the proper sealer for gasoline. If that doesn't cure it & you still smell gas from the sending unit area then change the sending unit. Sometimes they can allow fumes to escape.
This is something you MUST track...
That’s what the whole debate about adding antifreeze is all about. And I’ll say this…I’ve done it for 20 years same engine not rusted out in salt water use. Mercury Marine now requires that AF be added to the raw water side of the cooling system to reduce corrosion. That’s really up to the owner.
I would say at a bare minimum:
Change oil & filter; if oil is milky that needs to be dealt with over the winter May need engine repairs…
Change drive oil; same thing if you see milky oil get it fixed over the winter…
Drain block & manifolds (sounds like you already did this), rust in the drains...
It depends on which Holley carb you have, the front bowl can have 2 different fuel inlets, the one that works with the 4.3 is the bowl with the side fuel inlet, not the inlet that is on the front of the bowl....
front inlet...
When I replaced my cyl heads I just grounded the high tension lead from the coil to the distributor and cranked it over for like 10 sec and the oil pressure actually came up to 40 psi in maybe 5 sec. Did that twice with the oil cap off watching inside and it was all good. But use the tool if it...
Not surprising, if we look at what West Marine says about the AF they sell, in a place like Mn I would think -100 is the only thing I'd use. Yep it's $21/gallon but the actual freeze rating (I measured it with an antifreeze refractometer) is about -45*F.
Here in coastal Long Island our winters...
I might recycle my PG stuff this spring, just clean the bilge first, put in the plug, drain then put a bucket under the garboard drain, I use about 4 gallons every year.
I still use the Topsider and while I’ve thought about installing the drain hose it’s only been a thought for the same reason….I think with the rear seats & bulkheads all out I could get to it….
BTW the hose on the Topsider gets stiff with age if you replace them and use the garden hose...
