Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration
I am going to try roll and tip in addition to spraying. While it is nice to have access to spray equipment, I want to try both methods. The manufacturer claims that it is an EXCELLENT paint for this type of application, as is the SM-1000. I actually applied the SM-1000 on part of the Glasspar (motorwell, LONG story
) with a foam brush- and had pretty impressive results. The paint self levels quite nicely. The few small brush strokes that were left in it were easily taken care of when I cut & buffed it- and you really can't tell the difference between the area that was brushed and the area that was sprayed!
The only 'problem' I ever had with the SM-1000 was due to an application error. It requires oxygen to cure- So you really have to pay attention to your wet film thickness when you apply it, as well as curing times. If it goes on too thick, it won't cure... And if you try to recoat it too soon, it will bubble. But, once I got that all worked out (it took an e-mail to customer service/tech support), everything was great.
I'm thinking that the urethane will probably be a bit more forgiving when it comes to thickness, since you mix the activator in with the paint and it doesn't require oxygen exposure to cure... But I'm still going to follow the direction.
The inlaws are coming up for the weekend- So I've got to get the house cleaned up- Progress will probably be a little slow for the next few days. That's OK, though- I'm waiting for the new spray equipment from TCP... I JUST got an order from them today, too- Some POR-15 for the truck restoration... I wish I'd have ordered the sprayer then, too
-Andrew
I will more than likely use the same system with the exception that I will roll & tip.
I am going to try roll and tip in addition to spraying. While it is nice to have access to spray equipment, I want to try both methods. The manufacturer claims that it is an EXCELLENT paint for this type of application, as is the SM-1000. I actually applied the SM-1000 on part of the Glasspar (motorwell, LONG story
The only 'problem' I ever had with the SM-1000 was due to an application error. It requires oxygen to cure- So you really have to pay attention to your wet film thickness when you apply it, as well as curing times. If it goes on too thick, it won't cure... And if you try to recoat it too soon, it will bubble. But, once I got that all worked out (it took an e-mail to customer service/tech support), everything was great.
I'm thinking that the urethane will probably be a bit more forgiving when it comes to thickness, since you mix the activator in with the paint and it doesn't require oxygen exposure to cure... But I'm still going to follow the direction.
The inlaws are coming up for the weekend- So I've got to get the house cleaned up- Progress will probably be a little slow for the next few days. That's OK, though- I'm waiting for the new spray equipment from TCP... I JUST got an order from them today, too- Some POR-15 for the truck restoration... I wish I'd have ordered the sprayer then, too
-Andrew