1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,930
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Ok, I've had those kinda days too! I'll let it slide this time. Believe me I understand. Two years on my boat and didn't even do a gut job!:eek:

But, Neck Surgery, Gall Bladder removed, and Heart Stent DID put a damper on it at times. Not counting 92 yr old Mom issues. But Hey, It's getting closer evey day, just like you.

So, I guess you're gunna be Captain Andy again. Do you have to wear a uniform and a Kool Captains Hat???:p
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

But, Neck Surgery, Gall Bladder removed, and Heart Stent DID put a damper on it at times. Not counting 92 yr old Mom issues. But Hey, It's getting closer evey day, just like you.

Blah Blah Blah... Excuses excuses... :)

So, I guess you're gunna be Captain Andy again. Do you have to wear a uniform and a Kool Captains Hat???:p

I wear a tricorn hat and a peg leg!
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Actually, I DID snap a couple of photos-

The side of the hull had some 'ripples'. They were not that noticeable until the primer went on, and it was all one color. You could REALLY tell when the primer was still wet, and a bit glossy. After the primer dried, I sanded it down a bit, and applied a filler OVER it. Yes- you CAN do that- as long as you are using a primer that is compatible with the filler. It's actually fairly common practice with cars, epoxy prime the bare metal, which seals and protects it, then apply bondo over that. Just make sure whatever primer you are using bonds to the substrate well- Your whole finishing 'system' is only as strong as the weakest layer.

I applied a thin layer of filler over the area, using a 6" wide flexible scraper blade. These ripples are shallow- I'd say no more than 1/32" - 1/16", so the filler goes on THIN. I used epoxy mixed with a 'fairing filler' additive (from US Composites). I mixed it a little 'soupier' than I normally would, kind of like peanut butter or a little runnier. This helped me work it in to the dips a bit, and since it was going on thin, sagging wasn't as much of a problem.

Once it cured, I used a sanding board to sand it down smooth. The higher areas stay white when I hit the primer level, and the low areas are clearly defined by the darker filler-

0329Faired.jpg


This will result, hopefully, in a nice, smooth side!

I also 'played' with my paint- And I REALLY like it. I am using Supermarine ironsides Paint, which is a two-part urethane. Before I got fully involved in painting with a spray gun, I wanted to do some test areas with a brush to experiment with mixing and thinning the paint, and also to see how it reacted to being brushed. I am impressed with the paint so far- It is mixed at a ratio of 7:1, then given 15 mins or so of 'induction' time before application. I did a small test panel, and first brushed a little bit on unthinned. The paint is pretty thick, so the brush marks were evident, so I thinned it down a little and tried again. When it was thinned a bit, it leveled much better, and the brush strokes disappeared almost immediately. I think that this paint would be GREAT in a roll and tip application.

I ended up painting the louvers on the transom, since I think it will be a PAIN to try to spray them evenly without drips-

0329Tsom.jpg


Not easy to see in the photo, but they look pretty good for a first coat! The gloss is INCREDIBLE. Its equal to, or better, than the gloss I got with their single part paint AFTER cutting and buffing it. I'm told that this paint shines even more once it's cut and buffed, too. I can't wait to see that!

Now, if I could only get my primer here, I'd be all set... I hate running out of supplies!

-Andrew
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,930
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

OH WOW!!! I think you've just convince me. How much is that stuff per quart??? Post a link please.
 

jones01m

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 23, 2011
Messages
252
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Andrew, I was waiting to see if you liked the results you were achieving with the paint. It sounds like the answer is yes. You also answered another question I had, which was what type of fairing material you used. Are you pleased with the color tone? Are you using plain "White" from the colorchart?
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

http://www.supermarinepaint.com/

The real 'test' will be how it sprays... I think it'll be good, though. It's not CHEAP- At $67 a quart, but the time savings over having to cut/buff etc will be worth it. And, it is supposed to last longer. They also sell half gallons and gallons.

The single part stuff I used on the Glasspar is about $48 a quart.

But, remember, the cost of the paint is NOTHING compared to the hours of prep time. I'd rather spend a little more now and never have to re-do it!
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

I think that the never-ending sanding has finally come to an end... I filled the last of the small imperfections with filler, and sanded it all down-

0409HullFaired.jpg


All those darker spots are low spots that are filled- They really didn't show until I got a nice, even coat of white on the hull. They would have REALLY shown once I had a coat of urethane on there!

Hopefully, I am going to get some paint on there tomorrow, if the weather and my schedule permits.

-Andrew
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Perfect painting day today- Mid 70's, NO wind, and slightly overcast... Even the pollen count was extra low- So, it was time.

I got up early, and went out to sand any last imperfections I could find in the hull. It amazes me what you find the next day on a hull that you could have sworn was 'perfect' the night before... The eye is also a liar, I've learned to trust my sense of touch far more. There were only a few spots that needed to be hit, and I got them all nice and smooth.

Then I wiped it down with a clean rag and a bit of thinner, and waited for the temps to come up just a bit. I like to wait until it's over 70 if I can, just to be sure. Of course, I couldn't sit idle- I did some welding work on the body panels of the truck I'm restoring while I waited.

Just before lunch, I mixed up a 'batch' of urethane paint. I had my sprayer ready to go- it's the first time I've used it, so I knew I'd be playing with the settings a bit. In hindsight, I should have thinned a BIT more- I did about 10-15%, and I got a little more orange peel that I'd have liked, but, Overall, it looks good-

0410Paitned.jpg


0410paint1.jpg


The gloss is GREAT. It should be dry to the touch in about 30 more minutes... Then it'll cure for a while before I cut & buff it... Which should make it shine even more. I like the paint- and had I thinned it a bit more, I think that the spraying would have come out even better. But, I'm certainly no pro when it comes to spraying. I know the only way to get good results is through practice... The rest of us just have to do a lot more wet sanding :)

One thing that I found to be an issue was trying to get good coverage with a white paint on a white primer- It was REALLY hard to tell where I had been! I had to look at it from an angle. One good thing about this paint versus the other, single part that I had used in the past is that since it isn't reliant on solvent evaporation, you can go a little thicker with the coats and not worry about it bubbling up on you.

It is starting to look more like a boat now ;)

-Andrew
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,930
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

NICE!!! That's the advantage of having a lighted Booth to paint in. When painting white on white the light reflection can help guide you where the "Wet" is. What tip size did you use?? From what I can see, she looks like a pretty white wedding dress!!!!;) Just one Coat??
 

southkogs

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 7, 2010
Messages
15,060
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Hull looks nice Andrew!

Ya' kinda' forget how simple they made them back then. When we would turn ours, she'd climb WAY up on the outside. Wasn't hard to bury a gunwale on a turn.
 
Joined
Jul 1, 2011
Messages
1
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Perfect painting day today- Mid 70's, NO wind, and slightly overcast... Even the pollen count was extra low- So, it was time.

I got up early, and went out to sand any last imperfections I could find in the hull. It amazes me what you find the next day on a hull that you could have sworn was 'perfect' the night before... The eye is also a liar, learned to trust my sense of touch far more.

Then I wiped it down with a clean rag and a bit of thinner, and waited for the temps to come up just a bit. I like to wait until it's over 70 if I can, just to be sure. Of course, I couldn't sit idle- I did some welding work on the body panels of the truck I'm restoring while I waited.

Just before lunch, I mixed up a 'batch' of urethane paint. I had my sprayer ready to go- it's the first time I've used it, so I knew I'd be playing with the settings a bit. In hindsight, I should have thinned a BIT more- I did about 10-15%, and I got a little more orange peel that I'd have liked, but, Overall, it looks good-

0410Paitned.jpg


0410paint1.jpg


The gloss is GREAT. It should be dry to the touch in about 30 more minutes... Then it'll cure for a while before I cut & buff it... Which should make it shine even more. I like the paint- and had I thinned it a bit more, I think that the spraying would have come out even better. But, I'm certainly no pro when it comes to spraying. I know the only way to get good results is through practice... The rest of us just have to do a lot more wet sanding :)

One thing that I found to be an issue was trying to get good coverage with a white paint on a white primer- It was REALLY hard to tell where I had been! I had to look at it from an angle. One good thing about this paint versus the other, single part that I had used in the past is that since it isn't reliant on solvent evaporation, you can go a little thicker with the coats and not worry about it bubbling up on you.

It is starting to look more like a boat now ;)

-Andrew


love what you have done and hope to see you on a beautiful east teneessee lake soon!!
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,490
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Looks like a caterpillar tuning into a butterfly !!
Great Job !!
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Thanks.

As promised, the paint was 'dry to the touch' in about an hour... We had a few sprinkles later in the afternoon, but no problems, since it was all pretty dry by then. I still wiped it down, though :)

I should be able to give it a light sanding in the morning, and shoot another coat... It needs up to 7 days for a full, complete cure. This stuff is TOUGH stuff when cured- Supposedly it resists battery acid, brake fluid, and other nasties. I know from the tests I did before that the stuff is very resilient when cured. I can't wait to see it cut and buffed, It should really shine then!!
 

Trooper82

Commander
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
2,648
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Looking good andgott. Can't wait to see her after you put the real shine on.
 
Last edited:

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Wow! Andrew, sure is lookin purdy...very nice job!
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

I did a small test spot today, to see how it was going to buff out- The photo gives you SOME idea -

0412Buffed.jpg


I hit this area with some 400 wet/dry first- there was BAD orange peel, as I was still having issues with air pressure. The rest of the hull probably won't need that heavy of a grit. Then I used 1000, then rubbing compound, then meguiers 'Ultimate' compound, which I applied for this quick sample spot by hand.

The gloss is unreal- And, it didn't really take all that much work... Just wet sanding until I can feel it's smooth, then a quick buff. The machine will make much quicker work of the buffing, too.

It's also nice that I can do this work 12 hours after painting- I wouldn't TOUCH an enamel paint job with sandpaper or compound for at least a week! I think I'm going to get her sanded down, then wait a few more days before I do the buffing, since it does say it takes a few days to reach optimum hardness. I'll use the slight softness now to my advantage- to make sanding easier.

-Andrew
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,930
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

Thanks A LOT!!! Now I'm SNOW BLIND!!!!! All I can Say is WOW!!!!!! If my Valspar comes off I guess I know What I'll be using next.

BEE-U-TEE-FUL!!!!!
 

andgott

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
801
Re: 1959 Lake N' Sea Restoration

My fingers are numb...

I went over any orange peel, drips, etc with some 400 grit wet/dry. Then, I gave the entire hull a quick hit with 600, then 1000... Then, I hit it with 3-M rubbing compound.... I'm not done YET, but it's already starting to look good-

0412Buff.jpg


I still have to hit it with one finer compound before I'm done.

There are a few spots on the edges where I was a bit too aggressive with the compound, so I'll have to touch the paint up there- But they are all areas that I can get to easily when it's back on the trailer. There is a pretty decent chance that I'll get a few scuffs or scratches when I flip the hull back, So i'll wait 'till that's done!
 
Top