1976 Grady White Transom Rebuild

demarko210

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I think i will have to cut this transom back out and start over. Hate to even think of it but the imperfection of me cutting the wood it getting to me. I keep thinking of what a member told me last year about the space in my corners and if the skin is not sticking correctly can cause stress cracks.
 

kcassells

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Hmmmm...Bite the bullet. Now that you are getting the jist of it you are more picky! But thats good. I saw the transom spaces and had concerns. Seemed like voids behind the new transom to the old fiberglass.
Chalk it up and "Gulp" dig it out. You will be happier in your own mind, me too!:grumpy:
 

demarko210

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kcassells
Yes you did tell me also. That was the post I was looking at I was talking to you and Slager . You metion the seacast and that does not work with wood from the manufacturer. I think I am going to go ahead and cut those gunnels out also like Woodonglass suggested to me.

I am not upset just thinking if I am going to put a new motor on this thing which is expensive, I do not want to have any doubts with it hanging on there. It should not be too rough if I cut those gunnel. The hard part I think will be at the bottom.
 

demarko210

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Another thing may help. I purchased 1 quart of the flotation foam 6lbs density fby total boat which said its ideal for filling voids in structural application.
 

kcassells

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Foam is messy and time restraints. Just wondering how you could get that into all those odd areas and feel confident it did the job? In addition it will probably push your exterior fiberglass transom you have out of square. Between the new transom and existing glass.
Any opinions welcomed.
 

demarko210

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I started digging it out Sunday. You are right I was just trying to think of something before I begin just encase it would work. I need to get that sawzall. Will post some pictures this evening. I will put in a full transom this time.
 
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demarko210

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Finally got that wood back out last week. Now I am sanding and grinding away again at the transom this week. Any body need to remove wood out of a boat, I would highly recommend using a electric chainsaw. The worx 305 has done well digging out the old and new wood (mistakes that i made). It dug out that new wood in about 3 hours. So this time when i put the transom back in I will put the first layer (.70'') of wood onto the inside of the outer skin in pieces to make sure i get a good bond. I have not decided whether or not i will add another layer in pieces (.70'') or the entire board. I was also thinking to build it up in (.25" x 3) pieces after (.70") and just add mat between each .25 layer. I read it will be more stronger with more core layer. Its alot of board to handle alone and alot of thicken resin to cover in one large area.
 

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demarko210

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I changed up and decided to go with 3 pieces. what i am thinking is to use the pieces to bond to the outer skin then use the entire board for the second and third layers. I am using 15/32 now instead of 23/32 so i will either use (3) 15/32 or (2) 15/32 and (1) .25 and build up 2 or 3 layer of 1708. Nothing is concrete yet just taking my time.
 

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demarko210

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KC what are the draw backs to breaking it down into 3 sections if any? My reason was handling the board and trying not to make so much thicken resin at one time to cover that entire area. I installed the board as one entire piece the last time. (2) 23/32 pieces glued together and it wasn't bad but I feel doing it that way again i will make another mistake. I was thinking most of the weight will be in the center board. Only other thing that will hang of the back is a kicker motor.

I would have left the previous new transom i installed in if the board would have gotten a bond to the inside of the outer skin. Those corners that we talked before about the board being up again the hull corners was good. It was filled with thicken resin it just did not appear to from the top. Not getting that bond to the outer skin sealed the redo for me. I did not want to cut the outer skin off then glass a new outer skin. Not ready to do one that way yet.
 

demarko210

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My main concern is getting that bond to the inside of the outer skin. Then i can focus on clamping one piece at a time. you think i can still use this resin i had left over from last year? I placed it inside another bucket with another top on top of the bucket with duck tape. if not it should be still good to wet the boards with. Here is a picture
 

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kcassells

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After MY last experience with this Freakin Transom the last thing I want to do is Count on BAD resin. Hmmmm let me think
this over aleetle mo.:eek:
 

demarko210

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Ill just order another 5 gallons and take that as another loss. I called them, they said about 6 months. The website say about 4 months and they get shipments in 2 times a month and they keep the mekp in the frig until ordered. all i had to do is open my eyes!
 

demarko210

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ordered 5 gallons yesterday morning and it should be here today. Nice to have a local place but i thought it would be here by friday. Oh well.
 

demarko210

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KC I have a question about my gunnels. I posted a picture of my plan to cut on both sides. I will RR foam and re-glass that area. My question is when I bond my deck. The way the gunnels and deck were bonded if you look at the picture the old piece of deck that is attached to the gunnel goes under the gunnel and bonds to the hull. The gunnel is also bonded to the deck as you can see. So the foam is sealed in a compartment. I left that piece of old deck so i know how close i am with my measurements on my stringers to the original deck height it was. i want to bond the new deck to that piece of old deck with PB and 1708. i will still run the 1708 up the gunnels and onto the deck 4" and 8". Would this bond be ok?
 

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