1976 Grady White Transom Rebuild

[kcassells]

Yup that's a fine idea. Leave enough lip on the upper and lower pcs. so you can scribe/attach the new wood to. See if you can save the front glass off that pc you take off. PB it back on w/some screws to drive it on. But yup it'll work. Yap more after you move along.
An alternative may be just cut it all out. Save the form and redo in new wood and glass. Attaching the new ply to the underside of the gunnel lip/flush.

 

[kcassells]

Ok I just got home from work. Took a little more in depth looking. You might run into the same issues I did. After I removed the apron {like you are cutting out** my gunnels were also rotted. Don't scream yet till you get there.
I was able to chisel the wood out it was so bad. I still have them to put back. It's all apart of the puzzle ya see. FINGERS CROSSED!!
Good to see ya banging away at it like a mad dog! Oh yea cut the whole section out then on a table you may be able to remove the wood backing and save the glass.

 

[demarko210]

thanks KC I will have to get you something when i finish this boat. take you fishing when she is done for all the advice you have been giving me.

the foam is not wet and seems it never got wet. either way I will remove so I can get a good look at how the old deck is attached. I was going to put new wood there and new glass (just because glassing is the fun part). Also I was going to leave the top gunnel lip and build down from there to the deck. That's not set in stone but i already tore up the port side half way till i realized my new plan. That gunnel goes all the way to the front of the cabin. Wish I could have remove the entire cap to do this job. That is the main reason I did not do the entire stringer (even though the wood was good at the butt joint to bow).

I will have to remove the wood that is under the steering console (starboard side). I pulled back the fabric and the wood is rotten facing the deck. The portside wood is still solid, i will sand that and give a good coat of resin and 1 layer of mat on the side facing the deck. The inside is in the cabin and it has been glassed over and painted white. Will I need something to brace the top cap after I remove that wood? this will mean i will need to remove the cabin door also and clean that up. I will get a picture later today to give you more detail. you can see the wood in the photo i just post on the portside right of the photo. Thats the good piece. let me know thanks!

 

[kcassells]

If getting back to complete the side gunnels is gonna take a while I would recommend bracing them up. Great idea there too!

 

[demarko210]

This is the boards I was explaining about

 

[demarko210]

Others side if i remove this should i brace this with 2x4's

 

[kcassells]

Feel it out. Maybe a 2 by made up like a T or H. Probably minimal distortion. Looking good!

 

[kcassells]

Ahh just checkin in.

 

[demarko210]

thanks KC I haven't made any cuts yet. Just taking my time, although every morning I wake up looking at my photos planning because I do not want to have to do double work like i did. I did get my 2/3 boards glued together, all but the center one. The center one i will glue together with CSM. I do have a question for you, that old poly i bought last year you think it would be still good enough to laminate my house deck with? I will try on a piece of 2x4 and see. How will I know if its still good or bad? will it have a certain color to it?

 

[kcassells]

Not sure but like you said do a test with it.
Just a note csm has no strength to it but does waterproof. You can use just PB if you soak the wood out in resin.

 

[kcassells]

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...headed-to-splash-town?p=10599010#post10599010

Relevant...grabbed this off a current forum.

 

[demarko210]

thanks after reading that I went on and did the center piece with titebond like the other 2. I thought that adding layer of glass between the wood would add more strength. Wondering, when using the titebond should i have soak in resin then titebond together or it doesnt matter? Last time i wet the board out with resin then titebond this time i did not.

 

[kcassells]

Whoops...Always wet the wood out. In your case now triple wet out on edges.

 

[demarko210]

Oh well, titebond is water proof anyways although i dont plan on water penetrating that area. I will soak the pieces before i place them in anyways. Might just encase the center piece in mat anyway

 

[kcassells]

YUp that's poifect!

 

[demarko210]

Also how will i know if this old resin is still good after i use it? Will there be visible signs, will not harden, turn a different color when it harden and not match the color from last year?

 

[demarko210]

So here is the test. I still have about 4.5 gallons in this bucket. I wet out the piece and then place a small piece of matt. I used the mekp that came with it. It did not harden at all. Now I think i need to test with the new mekp that came with the new 5 gallon that i purchased. The old one was left out and i was told by the company i purchased that they keep the mekp in the refrigerator until ordered.

 

[demarko210]

So the resin is still good now i used the new MEKP and this harden up nice. But I am not going to hang my new motor off of it :nono:. I will just used it on my home deck since i have to sand it and do some repairs to the floor boards. I will get some more mat and MEKP for the house. So i had duck tape the pouring nozzle top of the 5g bucket. Then i put home depot 5g bucket top on top of that and duck tape the top to the resin bucket. Keep it in my basement tent 10 months so far.

 

[demarko210]

Still working at it this summer but not much! I will get started again after the new year. Decide to raise the transom so i could mount a 25'' shaft on it as i am shopping for a motor.

 

[kcassells]

Happy New Year! Alittle at a time is Fine!