Re: 1987 Johnson J200TXCUC lost power
OK. Those pictures are better. The block looks Fixable. Your compression numbers in the other cylinders looked pretty good. You will need to replace the bad piston and most likely have that cylinder bored oversize to clean up the damage at a minimum. As I said before, you can fix the problem put it back together and hope for the best, or rebuild the power head and carbs to hopefully have a a more reliable engine. I am in that situation now, and I didn't want to spend a lot of money, so I am doing what I need to to make it run a while longer. To do the job right, I would have had to bore all the cylinders as the cylinders are at the upper limits of the specs. If you spend that much money, then you really should replace all the bearings and all that was more than I wanted to spend on that old motor. You see where I'm going here. You can't go half way.
I would not take your friends advice to put it back together and run it. To do so will probably damage other components to the point you can't rebuild it, and if it let you down the last time out, why would you expect a different result the next time if you don't fix the problem.
The fuel pump with 4 wires has the warning horn circuit. To fully test that, I think you would run premix in the gas, so you don't damage the engine and disconnect the oil supply line to simulate a no oil condition. Grounding the horn, only tells you the horn works, not if the VRO alarm works. If there's an easier way I don't know it.
I would use something more robust than liquid electrical tape. If the wire is in good condition I would wrap it with uncured rubber tape, with electrical tape over it. I'm sorry. I don't know the name of the product, but if you have any electrician friends they will know. It will form into a solid piece of rubber that is waterproof. You need to cover it with electrical tape because it's gooey and will get on everything it touches. Ancor also makes adhesive lined inline butt splices, but you would need to cut the wire to use one. I don't use them unless I absolutely have to.
When you take the flywheel off, check/re -epoxy the magnets. If one comes loose it can damage the stator and timer base.
Complete rebuild kits are available, but you can't order it until you know what you need for pistons.
I've got to stop typing now. My two index fingers are getting sore. LOL.
OK. Those pictures are better. The block looks Fixable. Your compression numbers in the other cylinders looked pretty good. You will need to replace the bad piston and most likely have that cylinder bored oversize to clean up the damage at a minimum. As I said before, you can fix the problem put it back together and hope for the best, or rebuild the power head and carbs to hopefully have a a more reliable engine. I am in that situation now, and I didn't want to spend a lot of money, so I am doing what I need to to make it run a while longer. To do the job right, I would have had to bore all the cylinders as the cylinders are at the upper limits of the specs. If you spend that much money, then you really should replace all the bearings and all that was more than I wanted to spend on that old motor. You see where I'm going here. You can't go half way.
I would not take your friends advice to put it back together and run it. To do so will probably damage other components to the point you can't rebuild it, and if it let you down the last time out, why would you expect a different result the next time if you don't fix the problem.
The fuel pump with 4 wires has the warning horn circuit. To fully test that, I think you would run premix in the gas, so you don't damage the engine and disconnect the oil supply line to simulate a no oil condition. Grounding the horn, only tells you the horn works, not if the VRO alarm works. If there's an easier way I don't know it.
I would use something more robust than liquid electrical tape. If the wire is in good condition I would wrap it with uncured rubber tape, with electrical tape over it. I'm sorry. I don't know the name of the product, but if you have any electrician friends they will know. It will form into a solid piece of rubber that is waterproof. You need to cover it with electrical tape because it's gooey and will get on everything it touches. Ancor also makes adhesive lined inline butt splices, but you would need to cut the wire to use one. I don't use them unless I absolutely have to.
When you take the flywheel off, check/re -epoxy the magnets. If one comes loose it can damage the stator and timer base.
Complete rebuild kits are available, but you can't order it until you know what you need for pistons.
I've got to stop typing now. My two index fingers are getting sore. LOL.
