1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

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Hort5

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

I've got a few material and technic questions for you.
1) Plywood; it looks like you used 3/4" pressure treated for the transom. I've read here and other forums that fiberglass/resin does not stick well to PT plywood. How did it work out for you? Also would type of 3/4" plywood did you use for your stringers and bulkheads? How about for your sole/deck plywood? How are you attaching your sole/deck plywood in place?
2) Limber holes; I like the idea of using PVC sleeves to seal and protect the stringers and bulkheads. How many limber holes did you install and at what locations?
3) Foam; Did you reinstall the foam in all the original locations? I am also thinking of using the sheets of foam insulation instead of the two part pour in style.
4) Ski locker; Are you reinstalling a ski locker? If so, are you making a door or purchasing one?
 

kabookey

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 12, 2009
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

I've got a few material and technic questions for you.
1) Plywood; it looks like you used 3/4" pressure treated for the transom. I've read here and other forums that fiberglass/resin does not stick well to PT plywood. How did it work out for you? Also would type of 3/4" plywood did you use for your stringers and bulkheads? How about for your sole/deck plywood? How are you attaching your sole/deck plywood in place?
2) Limber holes; I like the idea of using PVC sleeves to seal and protect the stringers and bulkheads. How many limber holes did you install and at what locations?
3) Foam; Did you reinstall the foam in all the original locations? I am also thinking of using the sheets of foam insulation instead of the two part pour in style.
4) Ski locker; Are you reinstalling a ski locker? If so, are you making a door or purchasing one?

1) Plywood; it looks like you used 3/4" pressure treated for the transom. I've read here and other forums that fiberglass/resin does not stick well to PT plywood. How did it work out for you?

- I did not have any issue with it sticking. Before I would glass over any of the wood I would first give it a coat of unwaxed resin and let it dry. That initial coat helps adhesion and prevents the raw wood from absorbing resin from the glass. I think many of the issues with delamination come from not giving that wood the initial resin coat first.

Also would type of 3/4" plywood did you use for your stringers and bulkheads?

- I used the 3/4? pressure treated for the stringers & bulkheads as well. I joined the sections of the stringers with butt-joints at alternating spots on the hull (one closer to bow, the other closer to stern).

How about for your sole/deck plywood?

- For the deck, originally I had ordered some 1/2" Arucoply (7-ply if I remember correctly) from a local lumber yard, and to be honest I was not impressed; too many voids and the ply was not completely flat, even after drying for a spell. I decided to scrap the Aruco and picked up some Sandeply from the depot. Excellent, excellent product IMO; very few voids and no knots (on one side), and cheaper by $10 or so a sheet.

How are you attaching your sole/deck plywood in place?

- I added planks of 1x4 to the stringers so I could screw the deck into them instead of the stringers themselves. I would fit the deck piece, countersink some holes through the deck and stringer-planks, pour resin into the hole then screw down using #8 x 1.75? stainless screws. Once the resin had set I would fill the hole with some PB.

2) Limber holes; I like the idea of using PVC sleeves to seal and protect the stringers and bulkheads. How many limber holes did you install and at what locations?

- I installed two limber holes, one in each stringer, roughly in the middle between bow and stern.

3) Foam; Did you reinstall the foam in all the original locations? I am also thinking of using the sheets of foam insulation instead of the two part pour in style.

- Yes; the foam in the bow was in surprisingly good condition with no water intrusion, so I kept that as is. Everywhere else I cut up the foam and compressed it under the deck, being mindful of keeping a channel next to the stringer to allow water to flow freely if it gets in there.

4) Ski locker; Are you reinstalling a ski locker? If so, are you making a door or purchasing one?

- I decided against the ski locker only because I have no plans to ski, hah. If I was considering, I would probably purchase a hatch kit.
 

kabookey

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

Alright, a quick update on my progress. Currently I am in sanding mode getting the deck faired, but wanted to post some pics of the pedestals for the captains chairs.

These were made from 2 3/4" ply, glued together with epoxy resin and clamped.



Drilled the holes, chamfered the edges with a 45 degree chamfer bit, and gave them a good sanding.



Someone on Friscoboaters thread had suggested using t-nuts for mounting the pedestal, which I thought was an excellent idea. After hammering in the 1/4" t-nuts, I covered the back with some CSM and added some "sacrificial" screws to make sure no resin got into the nut.





Once the CSM had dried, I attached the pedestal to the deck using epoxy and covered it with some 1708, once again using the sacrificial screws to keep the resin out of the t-nuts.



 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

That's the worst installation of a seat pedestal I've ever seen! I hope nobody else does it like that. Why on earth would you do it that way. Just because it's absolutely PERFECT!!!! Nice fabrication and excellent Glass work!!! It'll serve you well for years to come.

14656.gif
 
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kabookey

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

That's the worst installation of a seat pedestal I've ever seen! I hope nobody else does it like that. Why on earth would you do it that way. Just because it's absolutely PERFECT!!!! Nice fabrication and excellent Glass work!!! It'll serve you well for years to come.

14656.gif

I have to admit you had me for a second, and I do not get fooled often, hah. Thank you very much for the compliment, and my co-workers thank you for my sudden outburst of laughter (which just about scared one woman out of her seat). You have won the internet today sir, nicely done!
 

sheboyganjohn

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

I am going to need to remember this for my boat. That is a great idea for anything a person may want to mount to the deck or transom. I rate it two thumbs up.
 

kabookey

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

I am going to need to remember this for my boat. That is a great idea for anything a person may want to mount to the deck or transom. I rate it two thumbs up.

What I learned from my previous build is avoid screwing into the deck or transom (or anywhere else) if possible. The few places I added screws last time were ground zero for water intrusion. Fewer points of failure=longer life I figure. Thanks for the comment!
 

kabookey

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

I just realized I might have confused some of you by showing the boat in its original state then going directly to the "re-re-restoration". So, here is the ORIGINAL restoration I did circa 2008-2009. I will get this into a completed projects thread in the future. If you have any questions about this original build feel free to ask away.

http://s516.photobucket.com/user/kabookey/slideshow/Restoration
 
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kabookey

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

Alright, time for some updates. I had originally fabricated the speaker box to be removable (with panels added around it to cover up the open space). I later realized this was not the best way to go, since I had constructed the box almost 2" taller than the area below the starboard helm. Aesthetically I thought it looked strange, so I decided to fabricate a box that would become a permanent fixture on the boat.

Here is the original box:



And the new box:





 

kabookey

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

For the bow, I wanted to change up the design from what I had last time. In the previous restoration, I had placed the speakers on the panels of the bow seats. Since the speakers were enclosed, they sounded great, BUT all the moisture in the storage area warped the speakers and corroded the connections.

The backside of the panels were covered with CSM and adhered with stainless screws and some PB. I will be fabricating the side panels once a seating plan has been made.



 

kabookey

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

I was putting this part off for a while (it's nerve-wracking cutting into your "finished" work, ain't it?). Hindsight I should have cut these bad-boys out first, then glassed...but I was still undecided at the time which direction I would be going (plastic hatch or wood).

To get the size of the cutout, I found some pre-fab hatch covers and used those dimensions as a template. I then drilled into the bow and used a jigsaw to cut out the shape. Once the hatches were cut, I used a round-over bit to clean up the cuts.



 

kabookey

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

Finally got around to finishing up the portion of the deck that finishes the gas tank cover, along with the helm covers.



 

bvetter

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

Nice work! :thumb:
 

ShowMeGuy

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

Thanks for showing us your pedestal install!

Also you are gonna be BOOMIng some bass with that speaker box.. How big is that hole!!!!! 15"?
 

kabookey

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

Thanks for showing us your pedestal install!

Also you are gonna be BOOMIng some bass with that speaker box.. How big is that hole!!!!! 15"?


Haha, now that I look at the photo the hole looks MUCH larger than it actually is. It's for a 12" Boston Pro sub; one of, if not the best, subs I have ever owned. A few years back we were dealing with some crazy torrential downpours and the box the sub was in was filled with water. I removed the dripping sub, let it dry for a few days, and it cranked right back up like nothing had happened (minus a little rust around the magnet). Needless to say I was quite impressed; try that with a paper-cone sub....

Thanks for the comment!
 

kabookey

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

Went through the entire interior, making sure everything was faired, sanded, and smooth, and gave the 'Dirty Oar' her first bath in over a year. You don't realize how much dust collects until you get in there with a hose; it took 3-4 sessions with the hose to get everything out.



After her shower, I noticed there were a few spots I had missed due to the imperfections being filled with dust and dirt, so I went through again and did some patchwork.

This process has been VERY time consuming; if I had gone the route of leaving the glass unfinished I could have saved at least 6mos of work.
 

kabookey

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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

Finally reached the point where I can get some color on this boat. I debating the following:
1. Paint or gelcoat?
2. Roll or spray?

To help me decide, I purchased a small can of gel to see how this stuff differs from paint. Did a few tests on some scrap glass, trying both rolling and sprayed (using a Preval sprayer). Rolling came out horrible; orange peel like nobody's business and very thick. Even after thinning it looked horrible. Using a thinned mixture with the Preval came out decent, with only a slight orange peel.

So, now to figure out which route I will take. Paint will be MUCH easier; more forgiving, less sanding, possibly cheaper (Woodonglass has an excellent thread on paint which can be viewed HERE). Gelcoat will require MORE time, MORE sanding, MORE equipment, and leave less room for error. Of course I chose the obvious, right? Hah..no. Like I have said before, I am a glutton for punishment (but love a good challenge).

List of supplies needed for the gelcoat job:

1.7 HVLP gun * - $45


* DO NOT BUY THIS GUN - P.O.S - Ran a test with gel and MEK (no hardener); tried to take apart the gun to clean (which is impossible when they send you the wrong tool and no instruction manual), and the gel clogged up the nozzle so it is now inoperable. Had to run to the big box store and pick up another gun (wish I had done that the first time, came with 2 nozzles and a large instruction manual.)

Another HVLP (2 nozzles: 1.4 and 1.8) - $50

A gallon of gelcoat - $47.

Gallon of Duratec - $128 (whoa!). I did a TON of research on the Duratec; everyone who used the product said they would never spray gel again without it, so I decided to give it a shot. Thus far I am very impressed; my initial coat dried glossy with very little orange peel.



Inline water/oil filter - $10
Air compressor - $6pack of beer (borrowed from a buddy, need to post pics)
Respirator - $20
Cups - $10
Drill mixer - $5
Acetone (2 gallons) - $30
 
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kabookey

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May 12, 2009
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Re: 1987 Sea Ray Seville "Re-Re-Restoration"

When thinning gelcoat with the Duratec, they recommend a 25/75 mixture (25% Duratec / 75% gelcoat) and 2% MEKP to be sprayed barely covering the area, wait 2 minutes to let the solvents flash off, then continue to spray building up to 10mil. Then, using a 50/50 mix, continue spraying until you have reached 20mil.

In preparation, I setup a scrap piece of ply to test spray, and filled a few buckets with acetone.

Dialed the gun to 40psi, and mixed up a small batch (4oz) at the 25/75 ratio. It was a humid 89 degrees outside, so I bumped the ratio of MEKP down to 1.5% just to be sure.

Timer was set for 12 minutes to make sure I gave myself enough time to flush the gun out before the gel started to kick.

Threw on my respirator, pulled the trigger. Nothing; gelcoat is not coming out of this small nozzle. Had to thin the mixture another 25% using MEK (they recommend no more than 10%) before the gel made it's way out of the gun. Hit the 10 minute mark so I decided to cut my losses on this batch and try again.

The second attempt went much better using the 50/50 mix and no added thinner; even spray with minimal orange peel. If you look very closely you can almost see a reflection in the gelcoat, and that is before any wetsanding or buffing. I think I will be very pleased with this product in the long run...



With a thin coat sprayed, I was able to see some pinholes I did not notice before. It never ends....



Going to let it dry overnight so I can get the imperfections filled before I continue to spray. I am hoping to get some video on the rest of the spraying this week.
 
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