40EL75 Rebirth

[hardwater fisherman]

I really dont know if the smaller diameter, but thicker impeller is better. But the designers must of thought so. What I understand it sits in the round stainless cup it works in a different fashion then the original.As the original is offset in the housing.And the vanes on the original bend. I believe the upgrade impeller to be stiff and less flexible. That fact that the newer impeller was still being made is what interests me. And also it is priced like other impellers at 30 dollars or less.EDIT If I could find the upgrade for 60 dollars then I would snap it up. Because I have spent over 200 dollars just on impellers. Back around 6 years ago my local BRP dealer could not believe the price of the impeller. FYI The reason the impellers are rare is because the driveshaft has a bigger diameter, on 1974 and later models.

 

[racerone]

Water pump impellers are all " offset " I believe.

 

[hardwater fisherman]

Water pump impellers are all " offset " I believe.

Okay then .Do you think the upgrade kit that I showed to be a better design? I do not have any motors with those stubby impellers.

 

[hardwater fisherman]

I have not looked for the impeller for several months until today. There is more of the kits for sale at a more reasonable price. If you go for the kit just watch because some people are claiming they have 391741 for sale. But the pump housing is not shown. And the housing is the most expensive part of the kit.

 

[hardwater fisherman]

Water pump impellers are all " offset " I believe.

You are correct the hole appears to be offset in the cup. Was I correct when I said the vanes do not bend like the other type of impellers?

 

[oldrem]

I believe there would have to be some flex for the vanes to fit tightly against the wall. I noticed last night some did not include the housing, so only concentrated on those that did

 

[racerone]

???----Not sure why water pumps are confusing to some folks.-----The pump has to be " offset " and vanes have to bend.------Note---- that the space / volume between vanes changes.---That is what pulls the water into the pump when space / volume increases.----Water is forced out when space / volume decreases !!!

 

[hardwater fisherman]

Sorry I guess I should of read about it in the manual before asking. As it explains all about it quite well.

 

[oldboat1]

What's up with the rust issues you were describing earlier? Salt water motor, or maybe a storage issue?

Think I would make sure I had (or could get) a replacement head gasket before pulling off the head cover, and in any case would resurface before reinstalling the head. With the head cover off, might reach in and clean out cooling passages -- particularly if any salt water history.

 

[oldrem]

What's up with the rust issues you were describing earlier? Salt water motor, or maybe a storage issue?

Think I would make sure I had (or could get) a replacement head gasket before pulling off the head cover, and in any case would resurface before reinstalling the head. With the head cover off, might reach in and clean out cooling passages -- particularly if any salt water history.

The only rust or corrosion I've found anywhere so far has been inside the plug boots. I already obtained a new head gasket and cover gasket, so do plan on pulling the head and do a good job of cleaning the piston tops of carbon as well as resurfacing the head and cleaning the water channels if necessary. As far as I know this has always been used in fresh water.

My biggest problem is time, as I only have late Saturday afternoons and Sundays to do anything due to work constraints, so progress will be slow over the long cold winter.

 

[oldboat1]

leak from the cover gasket, maybe.

Anyway, sounds like a plan underway. And the days are getting longer now....

 

[oldrem]

Pulled the head this afternoon. Pistons have light carbon coating, but nothing bad. Cylinder walls look great. Cleaned the head and water chamber ( found a lot of sand in the water chamber). Cleaned all bolts, replaced gaskets and reassembled. Admiral wanted to get her car in the garage when she got home, so new compression test will have to wait for tomorrow.

 

[F_R]

Oh man, that thing looks beautiful inside. You should see what just a few years in salt water does to them!

 

[oldrem]

Oh man, that thing looks beautiful inside. You should see what just a few years in salt water does to them!

I can only imagine. We just have to put up with sub zero temps for awhile lol (woke up to -3 and -23 wind chill this morning)

 

[oldboat1]

Grit could be mud wasp nests breaking up, or silt from shallow running. In any case, would be good to flush it out. If mine, I would do it manually from the top -- force water into the jackets and let it flow out of the bottom (lower unit either attached or removed). Silt will do a job on impellers, as you probably know.

 

[oldrem]

Grit could be mud wasp nests breaking up, or silt from shallow running. In any case, would be good to flush it out. If mine, I would do it manually from the top -- force water into the jackets and let it flow out of the bottom (lower unit either attached or removed). Silt will do a job on impellers, as you probably know.

No flushing here this time of year unless I want to destroy the motor. It has to sit out my car port unless I have the Admirals permission to use "her" garage. Plenty other things right now. Next will be pulling the flywheel and replacing the points and condensers. New coils, plugs and solenoid are waiting in the wings. Hoping for a spark test this weekend.

 

[oldboat1]

Yeah, hear ya. Here in upstate NY, we sometimes see your winter weather when you're through with it -- or sometimes the stuff that Ontario shares.

 

[oldrem]

Had a good day. Re tested the compression with the new gaskets and readings were good again.

Popped the flywheel expecting to change the old points and coils and all looked like new. I reset the points and reinstalled the flywheel.

Installed the new coil packs and tested the new spark plugs - spark is perfect.

Installed the new solenoid and wired the new 4 position ignition switch and all worked perfectly even the electric choke.

Couldn't stop there, so I hooked up the frozen gas tank from the shed. Fired right up. A little rough, but didn't want to run long without water. Happy camper here.

Not much else to do on it until spring now. I did order a carb rebuild kit, so will probably do that this winter and install the new upgraded water pump assembly.

Not bad for a motor I didn't really have anything into up front. It came with my Sylvan 15ft side console and trailer all for $350

 

[oldboat1]

Not bad at all!

Flywheel torque on that thing would probably be something like 100 ft lbs (check to be sure). If you fired it up without full torque, it would be a good idea to pull the flywheel again, check key condition, and if all OK reinstall with full torque. Like refilling a drained gear case, it might be forgotten when launching in the Spring.

 

[oldrem]

Not bad at all!

Flywheel torque on that thing would probably be something like 100 ft lbs (check to be sure). If you fired it up without full torque, it would be a good idea to pull the flywheel again, check key condition, and if all OK reinstall with full torque. Like refilling a drained gear case, it might be forgotten when launching in the Spring.

Already done to omc spec. Manual called for 100-105. Key was in perfect shape. I'll redo the gear case oil when I replace the impeller/water pump assembly