Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

maxum247

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

It doesn't look bad where it is, and seems to be out of the way. I'd skip the paint.:)
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

A couple of pieces of hardware came yesterday. These pieces are so nice that I wanted to show you that high quality parts don't need to be expensive. So when I come across something like this, I like to share it will all of you.

These are Sea Dog brand gas fill and gas vent. Both are investment cast 316 stainless steel. They are a bit on the heavy side for such small pieces, but the casting is rather thick, so I expect them to last a long, long time. And being stainless steel, they should hold up in the salt water where I boat without corroding.

Both pieces are nicely polished, and the machine work on the threads for the cap and on the vent are smooth as glass. Not a burr in sight. Even the cap has a safety chain that is stainless. There is a thick O-ring gasket on the gas cap that seals night. And the screen in the vent is Monel metal, not chrome plated brass that will turn green in a couple of seasons. The threads on the fill and vent are machined, not rolled.

The fill part number is 3513201 and the vent part number is 3522101. The vent is also available in chrome plated brass, and it looks very similar, so it's best to go by part numbers when ordering.

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Now for the icing on the cake.... the gas fill is $19.23 and the vent is $9.94. Less than $30 for the pair. And they will outlast all those other plastic and chrome plated zinc fills/vents that sell for more.

I know the gas fill holds up. Have had the same one on my MFG Niagara for 5 years now. Just a wipe with a rag and it shines.
 

Tail_Gunner

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Jan 13, 2006
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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Nice where did you find that stuff...Does it have a gold cast like it looks..I have been looking all over the net trying to find a brass or gold finish for marine parts..
 

projecthog

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 20, 2008
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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Nice where did you find that stuff...Does it have a gold cast like it looks..I have been looking all over the net trying to find a brass or gold finish for marine parts..

The gold hue you see is most likely the reflection of the kitchen cabinet it is under :D
PH.
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
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Nov 13, 2008
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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Those are sure pretty. Living and playing in California made me decide to use the Perkins vented one piece fill. If I even so much as spill a drop, a hazmat team shows up. Most all the new boats sold here are using them now for the same reason.
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Those are sure pretty. Living and playing in California made me decide to use the Perkins vented one piece fill. If I even so much as spill a drop, a hazmat team shows up. Most all the new boats sold here are using them now for the same reason.

Yep, its a shame to pollute the water with gas. Not familiar with the Perkins vent/fill, but if its like the one by Perko, it doesn't work all that well for containing an over fill.

I realized I could put the fill where an overfill would run into the splashwell. A temporary plug like the ones used in bilge drains would capture the spill and allow for a cleanup. BUT NOOOOOOO says the coast guard. The regs say no gas from an over fill can run into the boat, and they consider the splashwell as being inside the boat. They are probably right from a safety point of view (I hate that "boom" sound when filling my boat:D). So the irony of it all is I end up putting the fill and vent on the outside of the boat where an over fill will run into the water. Coast Guard: 1, Environment: 0. Ya just can't win.

I'm not going to worry about it much because I fill the boat at a gas station, not on the water at a marina.
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Nice where did you find that stuff...Does it have a gold cast like it looks..I have been looking all over the net trying to find a brass or gold finish for marine parts..

Not sure about brass or gold colored hardware suppliers. But the stainless parts will plate nicely. Look up your local plater/chromer and ask about plating these new polished parts with brass or gold. Because they are new and already polished, a big part of the prep labor expense is not needed, and just the actual plating is needed. May not be too much.
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

UPS came today! Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!!!! :D Now that the hoses are here, the exact location for the fill and vent can be marked and cut. Depending on how rigid the hull is where the fill goes, reinforcing may be needed. I have some scraps of 1/2" pressure treated ply laying around that should stiffen up the hull if needed.

Got 4 feet of 1-1/2" fill, 5 feet of 5/8" vent and 8 feet of 5/16" fuel line and a 5/16" primer bulb. Ok Coast Guard, I'll be ready for inspection this summer!

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Funny thing.... Fuel fill hose is expensive, so I tried to make an 18" piece I had work by extending it with 1-1/4" copper elbows and pipe. Turns out one copper elbow is as much as 1 foot of hose. So it was actually better to just buy 4 feet of hose and not mess around with elbows and such.

Still need a fuel/water separating filter. Haven't decided exactly which one to use yet.
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Warmed up nice today, and no wind. So off to the boat to start installing the hardware.

I wanted to put the fill above the blue stripe, but the transom is solid foam above the rub rail. I ended up cutting out enough foam to install the fill in the blue stripe. Then put the vent a little lower and ran the hose up over the fill plate and then down to the tank. This is so that if/when water comes in the vent it will have to travel uphill before being able to get to the tank. Simple but effective. The vent is above the tank as per CG regs.

I was surprised how thick the cap and hull were when I drilled into them.

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Fill and vent fit in place. Im not going to bed them down because it goes below freezing at night and I don't want that to mess up the sealer curing. I can wait for warmer weather. Also, because the hull was thicker than I thought, I don't have to reinforce with plywood. Now the fill plate will be through bolted with screws, washers and locking nuts instead of just wood screws into the fiberglass.

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I really wanted to put the vent on the port side, but the space was just too tight to get my hand in there to tighten nuts and band clamps. So it ended up where I can actually attach the vent hose. Notice its above the splashwell so I really don't think it will be getting submerged much if at all.
 

sschefer

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

In a previous post I said I used a Perkins, it should have been Perko.

Out here on the left coast they don't like the fill's on the side or the back of the boat like you've done. We both know that chance of a spill is about the same but perception is everything and some marina's won't even let give you enough to get by. They'll sell you a gas can and once your clear of the marina you can put that in. They're too scared of getting fined.
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

....Out here on the left coast they don't like the fill's on the side or the back of the boat like you've done. ......

Where are the fills if they are not on the outside?
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Made a quick stop at Lowes this evening to pick up some stainless nuts and bolts for the fuel fill plate. I was surprised to see they also have stainless hose clamps, so I got those too. But I couldn't decide on what to use for bonding wire. I boat in salt water, so bare copper will turn green and fast. Thought that maybe aluminum would work well. Just not sure.

Anyone know what kind of wire is used for bonding the fuel fill, pipes, vent etc?
 

maxum247

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

My outboard boat has a 30 gallon aluminum fuel tank built in, the ground wire on gas tank looks to be a standard size automotive or I guess in this case marine grade copper wire with individual wire strands and a green exterior plastic coating so it is easily identified as the gas tank ground wire, and has a round eye crimped on each end of the wire and some "liquid electrical tape" around the crimp on each end of the wire to help keep out any salt water that might try to get at the individual copper wire strands.
Not sure of the wire size but it's probably a little larger than a round wooden toothpick. Guess you cold use heat shrink to seal the ends as well. max!:)
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Thanks! I found something earlier today that described the bonding wire just as you have. Green jacketed copper stranded wire. It also said that the larger the strands the better for marine environment because many fine strands corrode easier than fewer heaver strands.

So thats what I'll use. Have to order some tinned wire to install the gas guage and bilge pump, so I'll include some bonding wire.
 

sschefer

Rear Admiral
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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Made a quick stop at Lowes this evening to pick up some stainless nuts and bolts for the fuel fill plate. I was surprised to see they also have stainless hose clamps, so I got those too. But I couldn't decide on what to use for bonding wire. I boat in salt water, so bare copper will turn green and fast. Thought that maybe aluminum would work well. Just not sure.

Anyone know what kind of wire is used for bonding the fuel fill, pipes, vent etc?
Watch out for that HD Stainless, it's pretty low on carbon. West Marine stocks 18-8 and that's what is recommended for marine usage.
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Watch out for that HD Stainless, it's pretty low on carbon. West Marine stocks 18-8 and that's what is recommended for marine usage.

Thanks for the tip! Unfortunatelly, I don't have a West Marine or Overtons or any other marine/outdoor store near me. So when I have to physically fit/size up the screws into the piece, I am stuck with the local hardware or HD, etc.

So far the staineless from Lowes has been holding up fine on the MFG, and thats a salt water boat for the last 5 years. I'll keep my fingers crossed. :)
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Weather was in the 50's this Saturday, so I got some time in on the tank project.

Mounted the Moeller fuel filter. Used two stainless carriage bolts because the heads can be seen from the splash well. Its in an easy to reach area, and the fuel lines won't run over the battery (there is something about this in CG regs they don't like). The battery box mounts to the left of the filter.

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Mounted the fuel fill plate and vent in the transom, then connected the hoses. The green wire is for bonding the stainless fittings.

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Not the best photo, but it shows where the hose connects to the vent, then loops up over the fuel line (see above photo), and then down to the tank. That "trap" will help keep water out of the tank. Also had to cut some of the foam in the top of the transom out to get clearance for the vent hose to go up high enough to loop over the fuel fill. It would have helped to be a professional contortionist to make these connections. :D

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The hoses connect to the tank.

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Still have to get a fuel gauge, mount the 3 way valve and make all the fuel line connections. But before I do all that, the tank is coming out so the motor can be removed to get the new steering cable into the through tube. I tried, it just can't be done with the motor on the transom. So the tank won't get strapped in until the steering cable is in.
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

Well, the budget is tight, so I got this Faria fuel gauge from ebay. Not what I wanted, but it does have a chrome rim so it matches the speedo gauge (well, sort of). I have to save money where I can and this is one of those areas. The gauge is brand new and was only $13.90 with shipping.

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This is the dash of the Capri. Very simple. Probably going to mount the fuel gauge in the upper left of those four 2" round circles. If I get a US Marine 20 pole tach, it will go to the left of the speedo. BTW, the OEM speedo is by Faria.

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Maybe next year this dash will be replaced with a new plexy dash will a full complement of gauges. Hope the economy recovers by then! :D
 

Mark42

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Re: Bayliner Fuel Tank Project

No pics with todays update. Got the gas gauge installed, ran the wiring for the gauge, and also installed the bilge pump switch and wires.

I was trying to figure out how to attach wires to the boat without having to buy tie wraps with the screw loop at the end. Would need a few different sizes, and just didn't feel like spending the money or time to go find them in a store. So I came up with this solution: Plastic plumbers hanging strap. Just cut a 2 or 3 inch piece, loop it around and put a screw through it to secure to hull/transom, etc. It worked really well, now the wires are secured with a non-corroding fastener and stainless screw.
 
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