dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Here's a tally of my supplies I've ordered so far, along with prices. The supplies I'd need and the prices was one of my biggest questions, and seems to be other peoples' most asked questions also.

Order one

10 4" red glaskoter roller tubes $21.00

4 4" squeegees for spreading pb $2.00

1 1"x3" radius roller $8.00

10 yards x 50" 1.5 oz csm $32.00

15 yards x 50" 1708 $123.75

10 quarts cabosil $15.20

1 lb 1/4" chopped strand $3.85

1 16 lb foam kit $67.00

Order total $319.28

Order number two

1/2 gal epoxy and hardener $39.75

5 gal polyester resin $125.00

18 yd x 50" 1.5 csm $57.60

16 yd x 6" 1708 tape $22.40

Assortment of mixing tubs in different sizes-they are cheap so I got quite a few. Might as well get my money's worth out of the shipping.

Order total $349.47

Totals are with shipping to Lancaster, SC.

I still plan to order 10 more gallons of resin, and maybe some csm tape for tabbing the transom? I dunno might cut my own. After the recent stringer layup revision I think maybe I have quite a bit of csm.

Any of you experienced guys think I need any more 1708 or csm? I think I'm laying 3 layers of csm on the deck. Two layers of 1708 over stringers, and one layer csm for capping. I think I'm doing csm tabbing on the transom. Then one two layers of 1708, each extending 3" past the previous layer of glass.

I've probably spent 100 bucks or so on blades and grinder accessories. I don't count the cost of the power tools I bought (grinder and multi tool so far) because those are things I needed anyway that I'lll use in the future.

I have placed my last (hopefully) order for fiberglass. I'm sure I may place another order or two but it should be small if so. I would love to purchase 5 more gal of resin so I'm not so concerned with not wasting it and I can fillet away without worry.

But I digress. I don't have the invoice handy, but I remember the total and approximate individual prices.

2x 5 gal of resin @ 125$ each.
1x 16lb foam kit @ ~67$
5 yards 6"csm (can't remember-not much)

Total with shipping is 440$.

So this is the approximate cost of glassing materials for my 18' bow rider, provided this all is enough. It was a big question of mine, so maybe this will answer it for others. Keep in mind there is plenty of other expense. Wood isn't cheap, grinding accessories, ppe, etc.I've bought all that other stuff a little at a time as I needed it though.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Sounds about right $750 to $1,000 worth of Glassin Stuff!!!!

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Yep and I by no means have too much or a very large boat so I don't see anyone being able to do it for much less.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Yup, . . . I did a 'repair' of bulkhead and stringers and spent $1K on materials plus $1K on a fuel tank.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Luckily I have a good tank...and a perfectly good spare tank in an identical but outboard boat. I at least got a lot of spare parts and a good 150 outta that one.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

My bilge coat came in today. The can states it covers approximately 550 ft?. I think there will be plenty for my bilge and rank area haha. I was thinking about painting some of my stringers with it too. Just for a little extra peace of mind if there is plenty left?

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I've been quietly doing some grinding when I have time to. I dug out my digital camera today so I might see if I can get some decent pictures of this thing. The phone does so poorly in the low light, even with flash.

Ungrinded side:

Grinded side:

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Transom:

I still have some sanding and filling to do around the edges of the transom, particularly at the bottom. I haven't done any grinding from the consoles forward, I've just been focusing on them back for now. Once I finish the other side of this half, I'll do the consoles forward. Then maybe install some wood!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Lookin' good!

You're getting there.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Thank ya sir! So far it really hasn't been so bad. The uncertainty before starting was the worst part. As far as the work goes I think I disliked the disassembly and removing whatever I had to to get started most of all. I think I've done a good job of suiting up as I haven't really had much of an itch or irritation from the grinding. I'm starting to wish I hadn't sold off the motor for my other boat...

There are a couple places in the groove around the edge of the transom where I just couldn't get a grinder to make contact. Should I attempt getting a wire wheel or something to it so the peanut butter will stick better, or will just a couple small spots not be an issue?

I want to create a removable cushion between the front bow seats, and maybe just install a couple cleats for it to rest on, so that it is like one solid cushion across there, only in 3 sections. Any ideas on how to achieve this? Or just cut out the wood piece of it and have an upholstery place do it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Wire Wheel on a drill will scuff it enuf. Wipe it all down with acetone and call it good. Can you post a rough drawing of what you are contemplating for the bow?

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I believe I could!

Here is the bow before I ripped it apart. I think it would be possible to put two cleats just below each seat cushion on either side, and to make, or have made, a cushion to set in the middle there, supported by the cleats. I'd also like to make one to put on the nose there covering that hole in the bow for storage. Make it hinged so I can still store stuff there. That would make it much more comfortable to lounge across the bow there. The seat bottoms and backs that are there are a simply cushion made from a plywood base and about 2" thick foam.

When I think about it and get a chance I'll try to mock something up and snap a picture of it in the old dixie or get together a drawing.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Been at it since about 8 this morning! Finally called it quits. I'm a dry grocery orderfiller for a Walmart distribution center and I'm a little sore from some friendly racing this weekend . So that coupled with two days of grinding was getting to me.

Anywho from the consoles to the transom is now ground! Next I'm either gonna take a break from grinding and fillet in my strakes and fix the cut in my hull, or cut and glue in my transom. Or both.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Alrighty I have a question. I started asking in another thread but I think it was gonna go off topic and not be useful for that op, so I'm transferring it here.

I had been assuming I should lay my 3 layers of csm on the deck overlapping the portions of each layer about 4". Finish off the last layer with wax, then sand, fare, and smooth to make it purdy before I roll my two layers of gelcoat.

It has come to my attention that if you follow the last layer of csm with gelcoat within 36 hours the wax in the csm is not needed. I could lay the csm in butted joints instead of overlapping it by alternating front to back, then side to side with my joints.

This way there would not be so much buildup with multiple overlaps in about the same spot. My question is what are the chances I could do it this way and REALLY make the deck glass job attractive enough I wouldn't need a waxed final layer and a sanding before gel.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

If you make sure you get no bubbles and wrinkles it should be very smooth and ready for Gellin'. Some area sanding MIGHT be required but it's up to your glassin' skills by the time you get to the deck, you should be pretty good.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Alright. What are the possibilities of putting a plastic sheet over the glass if I go that route and it turns out unsatisfactory after I have forgone my wax making it cure out to a sandable hardness? Just as a backup plan in case! The unwaxed glass is sandable though? Just not ideal and eats paper.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Can gelcoat be applied to bare plywood?

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Couple questions :

When I seal the over the heads of my screws after attaching my deck, should I use 5200, or pb? Just curious if the glass lays over the 5200 okay.

Also want to hear opinions on sealing through transom holes. I've read many different ways. I'm leaning toward coating inside the hole with epoxy, then filling with 4200 when I put the screw/bolt etc through. Or coating inside with pb if I have no epoxy left at that time. Or just squirting 4200 inside before inserting whatever is going through.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

PB the screw heads, much quicker cure

Look thru GT1M's thread, he overbored & PB filled the holes thru his transom, then used large 4" X 4" backer plates to further reinforce the transom eye's......

The overbord'd & filled thru holes need to be larger on the interior then the exterior to prevent the entire plug from being pulled thru the transom........ GT did a great job & I think has pretty good pix showing his work & text describing it....

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

↑ Then that's what I will do! I'll drill the holes to the size of the through bolts at first to hold it snugly in place while I glue it to the outer skin, then I will carefully drill the wood out a little larger and fill with pb. Then after cure I'll drill the pb. I'd hate to discover I have a wet transom in 5 years because my holes were not very well sealed.

This will be my new transom! Thursday will be nearly sixty so I hope to attempt sealing it all around with one layer of csm.

When filling in voids with pb before I glass it, why can I not just paint on a thin layer of pb around the edge instead of trying to get csm to lay over the corner and onto the side?