dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

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mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I appreciate it! I have some mineral spirits I bought several years ago I've never used, so I'll try that!

I didn't get nearly as much done as I wanted to. I get up early and go to the gym with my dad before he has to go to work. Thos morning I, err, fell asleep after I got home:/.

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It looks like I'm cutting it close on 1708. Would a layer of 1.5 oz in the bottom of that compartment be worth anything for adding strength? I wanted to get some 1708 over the whole hull.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

CSM does not provide much strength since the fibers are loosely put together. It's the weave of the cloth in the 1708 and the weight of the cloth that provides the strength.
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Alright, I'll just wait, and if I have some extra I'll put a layer of 1708 down in the bottom of this tank area. No sense in wasting the resin on some 1.5 oz
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

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Enclosed are a few photos showing how my motor was mounted originally. In the photo where I have the old pieces propped back up I have the rearmost sections on the wrong sides of the mock up, but you get the picture. Under the motor the main two stringers just had three more pieces of ply lammed to the outsides, but not even extending to the hull. So it was like a block of wood attached to the stringer sitting an inch or so off the hull.

As you can see I made mine 4 pieces wide of 3/4 instead of 1/2, and that is full height all the way to the hull.

Then, originally, the floor went on top of the stringer, then the L shaped motor mount went on top of the floor. The lag bolts go through the mount, deck, and into the 4 ply stringer.

What I want to know is, what part of this do I double up the layup on (4 layers of 1708 instead of two)? The entire 4 plied stringer section, or just the L shaped motor mount?( I wanna make sure I have my terminology right and make sure its not that whole piece that's considered the motor mount)
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I have placed my last (hopefully) order for fiberglass. I'm sure I may place another order or two but it should be small if so. I would love to purchase 5 more gal of resin so I'm not so concerned with not wasting it and I can fillet away without worry.

But I digress. I don't have the invoice handy, but I remember the total and approximate individual prices.

2x 5 gal of resin @ 125$ each.
1x 16lb foam kit @ ~67$
5 yards 6"csm (can't remember-not much)

Total with shipping is 440$.

So this is the approximate cost of glassing materials for my 18' bow rider, provided this all is enough. It was a big question of mine, so maybe this will answer it for others. Keep in mind there is plenty of other expense. Wood isn't cheap, grinding accessories, ppe, etc.I've bought all that other stuff a little at a time as I needed it though.

I ran out of cabosil and 1708 today. Placed another order of about 100$ for 10 more yards of 1708 and 5 qts cabosil.

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Some pics of my glassing today. Turned out pretty well.
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

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Also, any ideas on the motor mount question above? Thanks!

It was a bummer to run out of 1708 today :(. There isn't a whole lot to keep me busy while I wait. I don't have the funds to buy more wood for the tank mounting stuff or cleats to screw the dexk to. I think tomorrow and Thursday I will cut the glass out from my limber pipes and check my transom thickness/flatness and build up he low areas with 1.5oz. I can also grind the tops of my stringers and start capping them.

I am thinking of coating 2x2's with spar varnish and gluing/screwing them to the side of the stringers to screw my deck to.
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

When glassing the deck, the last layer of 6oz, after two layers of csm, need not overlap, correct? If I'm not mistaken, it won't adhere without csm underneath?

Checked my transom thickness today. It is 1 ⅞ all the way around the keyhole. I didn't check to see how true it is across the center section, I figure I'll fool with that after I add glass. I am going to add two or three layers of 1.5oz to hopefully match where I have 2 layers of 1708 stringer tabbing at the bottom. Then sand and fair if I have to. I got a pound of fairing material by mistake on my last order. It was supposed to be chopped fibers but maybe the fairing stuff will be useful.
 

Bomber Goober

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'm pretty sure the layer of 6 oz is just a finishing layer to smooth everything out and not structural. So I would say no.

When I did the repair work on my transom outer skin, I did a layer of 1708 and csm to patch a tear the PO covered with a SS plate. I sanded the csm a little with 80 grit and then did a layer of 6oz over the whole thing and it wet out just fine. That's just my opinion, others may recommend something else.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

The 6oz cloth does require a prior CSM layer to ensure proper adhesion. Fiberglass 101...When using Polyester resin never lay a layer of cloth without a prior layer of CSM.
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

That's what I thought. Would the layer of 6 oz give a smoother appearance than one of the biax cloths? Is there a biax with 6 oz on one side and csm on the back? Just to save a layer to put down?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

R U putting 1708 on top of the deck? Id so, why? Really not needed. If you tab the deck to the sides with 10-12" of 1708 and lay 2 layers of CSM and a layer of 6oz cloth, you're GOLDEN!!!!
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

No sir, I was planning on doing a 6" strip of 1708 to tab, then a layer of csm overlapping 3 more inches, then a layer of csm extending 3 more inches, the the 6oz. What I was curious about, is if there was a cloth that could do my last layer of csm and 6oz all at the same time, saving me a step. Sort of like the 1708 is a layer of 17 oz and 3/4 csm all at once.

In the layup diagram, 6" tabbing is shown. I don't want to order more glass, but should I go more?
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Maybe I'm just clutzy, but I had enough trouble getting both CSM and the 6 oz. cloth to go down like I wanted, even when I was laying it over a previously kicked off layer. I personally don't think I would have tried to do both in one step. I would maybe consider laying two layers of 1708 at the same time, but 1708 is so much easier to work with. It really holds it's shape as your laying it and positioning it. The 6 oz. cloth especially was so light and it changed it's shape so easy, I would have pulled my hair out trying to lay it on a CSM that hadn't hardened.

I also couldn't get smooth butt seams with the 6 oz. It wouldn't hold it's shape well, so the edges were not ruler-straight. No way I could have laid it without overlapping it. I'm sure it was my inexperience, but it was tricky stuff.

On the positive side, the 6 oz. is thin enough that overlapped edges looked pretty good. I did a bit light sanding in few spots, but not much, and you can't see the seams.

Good luck!

Jim
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Well I'd say I'm even more inexperienced haha. So you say let the csm kick off a bit before trying to lay the 6 oz to make it easier? If the surface of 1708 looks similar I'd be tempted to lay csm then 1708 to save a step.

It looks like the lightest cloth they have with a csm stitched to the backside is 12 oz.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'd also recommend laying the 6oz after a 2-3 hour cure of the CSM. Using a minimal amount of resin is the key when working with the light cloth. A Bubble Roller is an absolute necessity and you have to baby sit it cuz most of the work is done right when it starts to gel.
 

JASinIL2006

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

The surface with 1708 is considerably rougher than with 6 oz. No comparison. If you do as Wood suggests and let the previous layer kick off and then apply the 6 oz., I think you'd have an easier time of it. The 6 oz. really doen't need much resin. I also followed Wood's suggestion to NOT let the resin tack up before laying in the 6 oz. It was much easier to work with that way. In some places, I didn't need to add any resin after laying the 6 oz on the wetted surface. The bubble roller helped to distribute the resin as much as anything.

Jim
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Alright. I'm glad this came up, because I would have laid it just like csm or 1708! So I will, allow csm to cure for a couple hours, then lay my 6 oz directly on top of that and wet with as little resin as possible, and not on a precoated tacky surface!
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

In most of the builds I see, deck joints are tabbed before the csm layers. Is this necessary only on a floating seam, or on all of them? I think most of my deck joints will fall on stringers and bulkheads.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Tabbing is first, but for interior deck seams I just fill em with pb and lay the CSM over em.
 

mwe-maxxowner

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Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Sounds like a plan! If any are floating and don't seem super solid I might tab the seam, otherwise fill and glass it is!
 
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