dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Soon I will be setting the tank back in the boat and seeing just how I'm going to build a structure to mount it. From the rot and moisture I had below deck the tank is grimy. What is a good product I can use to clean it that is safe on the aluminum. I am leery of doing any sanding or grinding on it for obvious reasons. I figured I'll start with some good ol soap and water and elbow grease.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Dawn dishwashing detergent and a scotchbrite pad, just like washing the pots and pans in the kitchen.

Your glassing work is looking good.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I appreciate it. It amazes me how much difference it makes. I can wiggle the stringers that aren't glassed, and even the ones that are only glassed on one side right now, a fair amount. But when I try to wiggle the ones that are fully glassed, it just shakes the boat. I can also really feel the hull stiffening up while I am moving around inside it.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

It has been rainy here for a couple days. Tomorrow and Tuesday are supposed to be 68 and rainy also, but I would really like to finish filleting and glassing my stringers by wed. Will the moisture in the air possibly adversely affect my layups? Or only delay curing some?

I hit the sides of my stringers down 3 or 4 inches in preparation for capping with my grinder and 50 grit. I didn't spend a lot of time working them. Just ran over it. Is that sufficient? I have some 6" csm tape that I think will be perfect, except for the wide motor mount stringers.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I have a question about cutting the pieces for my deck. I am sure that the strongest build will come from pieces that span the entire width of the hull. But, that is wider than 48", meaning I would have to cut the piece lengthwise across the hull, and have a floating joint after 48". I would most prefer to have all my joints on a stringer or bulkhead, if having the deck span the width of the hull in three sections isn't a large concern for strength. I have put together a couple crude drawings to show the two ways I see I can cut the deck.

The way I would like to do it, if it's okay for the main section to be in three pieces:




The other way I see I can do it, with two pieces spanning the hull, and the floating joint:



The sections are not to scale , so here's another picture to give you an idea of the sizes of each section.





Some 6 foot wide plywood would be nice! Oh well. Which way should I go with?

I would also go with two pieces wide I guess. One panel on the port side tank stringer to port side hull section, and another from port side tank stringer to starbord side of hull. Then I'm afraid I'll have one weak side if it's not all created evenly.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I didn't want any more floating seams than absolutely necessary. My layout was similar to your first drawing. I'd much rather have an extra seam, supported by a bulkhead or stringer, than have a floating seam (esp. if that seam was long).

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Alright, good. I figure the glass and screws ties it all back together, but then I've never built a boat before .

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I don't think you have to choose between a 'floating' seam or landing on a bulkhead only............

My FireFlite had small 1" rips of plywood running port-starboard in notches let into the top of the stringers at 4ft intervals. Each piece of deck ply edge was fully supported by this ply backer of sorts.

Many refer to it as a deck doubler, half under each piece of deck ply.

The fewer the seams, and the fewer un-supported seams the better, IMHO....

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

So you are suggesting that I notch out the stringers where a seam will fall and put in a strip of plywood spanning across the boat to support the seam?

Then I screw the deck to thiS? .I like it! Supports the seam and minimizes them. This allows me to cut a single piece of ply to span the whole width of the boat, which I want to believe has to be the strongest.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

You don't even have to do that You can use Deck cleats on the Plywood on the Deck boards like this and it will be like one solid piece of wood if it spans the width of the boat. Screw and glue a piece of 1/2" ply to the bottom of one piece, lay it and then lay the next piece and glue and screw it into place tape the seam with CSM and its as strong as if it was a single piece of wood.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I've got a lot of food for thought here. My only concern is the amount of buildup the csm tape at the seam will cause and how difficult that will be to hide? I think one of these methods I will surely go with. That is a whole lot less cutting, and far fewer screw holes to.contend with. I really appreciate it fellas.

I still have to tab the two sections to either side of the keel stringer, and cap all of the stringers. I have used about 9 gallons of resin thus far. Should 10 gallomfs do the deck and my capping on the stringers? Or do I need to plan to get another gallon or two?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'm sorry I wasn't clear, WOG's got it. I intended to use that as 1 doubler method & my FF as another............

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I have a question about cutting the pieces for my deck. I am sure that the strongest build will come from pieces that span the entire width of the hull. But, that is wider than 48", meaning I would have to cut the piece lengthwise across the hull, and have a floating joint after 48". I would most prefer to have all my joints on a stringer or bulkhead, if having the deck span the width of the hull in three sections isn't a large concern for strength. I have put together a couple crude drawings to show the two ways I see I can cut the deck.

The way I would like to do it, if it's okay for the main section to be in three pieces:




The other way I see I can do it, with two pieces spanning the hull, and the floating joint:



The sections are not to scale , so here's another picture to give you an idea of the sizes of each section.





Some 6 foot wide plywood would be nice! Oh well. Which way should I go with?

I would also go with two pieces wide I guess. One panel on the port side tank stringer to port side hull section, and another from port side tank stringer to starbord side of hull. Then I'm afraid I'll have one weak side if it's not all created evenly.

Decking installation and layout is supposed to be taken into consideration before or during stringer and bulkhead installation.

Drawing #1 on the notebook paper is unacceptable, never run the face grains parallel to the framing members... it always lays at a 90* angle to the framing. your decking will sag if you install it the wrong way.

Floating and cleated joints are also unacceptable (even in garden tool sheds and chicken coops).

For the strongest and longest lasting build, you only have one choice. Add bulkheads at your joints.

This will also help make your deck flatter and smoother, and it'll look that way too.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I did not know about the grain pattern mattering, good to know! As to the stringer layout, I only copied what was there.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

There's no way to add a bulkhead across where my tank will sit, but maybe I can do it like drawing one with the grains going perpendicular.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

As to the stringer layout, I only copied what was there.

... and that's what you're supposed to do.

Adding bulkheads won't hurt a thing and will make your boat stronger, and your deck joints more secure.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

My drawing exaggerates how thick the CSM would be on the seam when you sand and feather it, it would blend in quite nicely. The first seam piece should be 1 1/2" wide and the second 3". You could even leave a 1/4" gap and fill with PB so it would be flat and not use CSM to tape it off.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Alrighty. I have already expanded the bulkheads that were there to span across the boat, instead of being only in the center. The only area that is really of concern is the area over the tank. It is longer than 48". Would glassing in a 2" tall rip of plywood standing upright above the tank for the seam to fall on suffice in place of a bulkhead? If it is truly unacceptable for my decking's grain to run parallel to my stringers I will certainly run them perpendicular, though I was under the impression that plywood is non directional? Not trying to be argumentative. You all obviously know loads more about this than I.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

There is NO grain to plywood. But not all plywood is the same. this will help you understand.Dimensional Stability and Flatness :: Performance Panels :: APA - The Engineered Wood Association. If you use the cleats it will help it not to sag. Plywood is constructed with alternating grain directions in the successive plys which gives it it's stability. The length of Span is more of a critical factor in SAG for plywood. In 1/4" to 1/2" ply it's more of a factor but in 3/4" much less. Would it be better to always end seams on Bulkheads...Probably but Cleating is an acceptable and effective alternative.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Alrighty. I have already expanded the bulkheads that were there to span across the boat, instead of being only in the center. The only area that is really of concern is the area over the tank. It is longer than 48". Would glassing in a 2" tall rip of plywood standing upright above the tank for the seam to fall on suffice in place of a bulkhead? If it is truly unacceptable for my decking's grain to run parallel to my stringers I will certainly run them perpendicular, though I was under the impression that plywood is non directional? Not trying to be argumentative. You all obviously know loads more about this than I.

The grain of the plywood at a 90* angle to the framing members is carpentry 101.

Plywood is built with an uneven number of plies per sheet. 3,5, and 7 are the most commom. The 2 face side have the most numbers of plies running in that direction therefore making it stronger when laid at a 90* angle to the framing.

If plywood had an equal amont of number of plies alternating (and there are some special types that do) it wouldn't matter... but 99% of all the plywood you'll ever buy will be built with an odd number of plies alternating.