dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

That's what I was thinking. But I couldn't imagine another way. The transom in there certainly isn't square, the top and bottom cuts are parallel to the ground. But if square works that simplifies it.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

... and your fuel tank should not set on the 2x2 (good way to put a hole in it). Your tank should be bedded in with expanding urethane foam and not touch anything but foam.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Uhmmm, Please don't bed your tank in Foam!!! This Is NOT a good Idea. Check this out...


How to Install an Aluminum Fuel Tank : Boats, Yachts - Maintenance Repair and Troubleshooting

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'll check it out. It was sitting on top of that little 2x. There was a little grungy foam underneath it. Is that 2x structural in any way?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I doubt it.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Uhmmm, Please don't bed your tank in Foam!!! This Is NOT a good Idea. Check this out...


How to Install an Aluminum Fuel Tank : Boats, Yachts - Maintenance Repair and Troubleshooting

I guess the folks at Wellcraft didn't know what they were doing eh?

... and the people at USComposites don't know what they're talking about either:

4 LB Density Urethane Foam
Common Applications: This 4LB density foam is suited well for most flotation applications that require more support than the 2LB offers. This foam is recommended to be used when supporting gas tanks and some deck areas. Choose this density if you feel that the foam will be required to withstand minor to moderate loads. The 4LB density also works well in floating decoy or taxidermy applications as well as many other sculpting, casting, carving and other filling applications

Take a look at the factory installed below deck tanks in this forum and you'll see the vast majority are bedded in with expanding urethane foam, this isn't a coincidence. Expanding urethane foam isolates the tank from vibrations and keeps it from moving or rubbing on hangers and supports, the urethane foam is also solvent resistant.

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

The first paragraph explains why they do not recomend using foam.

Here's the answer that many of you asked for on how to install an aluminum fuel tank so that it doesn't corrode and leak again. Fuel tanks don't corrode because they get wet; they corrode because at some point something is in contact with the tank that traps water between it and the tank. Like the original foam that it was installed with. Aluminum is self-protecting, so long as the surface gets adequate air exposure. Severe corrosion is always caused by water plus a lack of oxygen. Metalurgically, this is known as "crevice corrosion," and the key is to eliminate all the points (crevices) that trap water. As long as the aluminum has a good air flow around all surfaces, contact with water will not damage it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

You're right JNG They DON'T! Cheap fast and easy way but NOT the best or recommended method. It's kinda like how they use chopper guns to Blow In glass to do their stringers and the other Shoddy Shortcut methods they use. Just cause the Factory does it does NOT mean it's the best most recommended way.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

The first paragraph explains why they do not recomend using foam.

Here's the answer that many of you asked for on how to install an aluminum fuel tank so that it doesn't corrode and leak again. Fuel tanks don't corrode because they get wet; they corrode because at some point something is in contact with the tank that traps water between it and the tank. Like the original foam that it was installed with. Aluminum is self-protecting, so long as the surface gets adequate air exposure. Severe corrosion is always caused by water plus a lack of oxygen. Metalurgically, this is known as "crevice corrosion," and the key is to eliminate all the points (crevices) that trap water. As long as the aluminum has a good air flow around all surfaces, contact with water will not damage it.

I'm sure this is only a problem for people that neglect their boats and don't keep them dry. The people that have never had to restore a boat and don't know that they're ruining their boat by leaving it exposed to the elements.

If bedding a fuel tank in with foam was a really bad practice, it wouldn't be OEM nor U.S Coast Guard Approved.

I can't imagine anyone being foolish enough to go to the trouble of restoring a boat and then exposing it to the moisture it would take to corrode a below deck fuel tank that's bedded in with foam and ruining all of their hard work.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I doubt it.

If that is the case I may just cut it out so its not an obstacle in my glass laying, or leave it alone altogether.

Looking at that link leads me to believe this little structure was in place to lift the tank up off the hull a little bit. For all I know there once was a little plastic of some sort between it and the tank. I ought to left the tank out of my other Dixie and see how its held in place. I would love to remove it completely so that its not in my way when tabbing the stringers to the hull, but I guess it needs to stay so I don't need to come up with something else to set the tank on.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

If that is the case I may just cut it out so its not an obstacle in my glass laying, or leave it alone altogether.

Well it's there for a reason, and obviously not for decoration... I'd either leave it like it is or remove it and put it back later.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I don't know. I think it dresses up the bilge area nicely! :happy:

Got the foam shelves and the transom out today.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

You can see a lip where the wood transom stopped in the last picture. You can also see where the hull slopes away from it a couple inches from the top and the wood was just sticking up with a fiberglass encasement.

I see no reason I can't run the top of my new transom here and bevel the edge so I don't need to go up and over the top. That line on top is where all structural support stops, methinks. It will curve back up to the top there in the middle above the keyhole.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I think I can use the old wood for a template.

Wood removed.

Samded on it some with 40 grit and an orbital sander. Pretty much just polishes the glass .

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

You're going to need a more aggressive grinding method... angle grinder, rubber back pad, and coarser discs. The angle grinder will throw the dust out of the way and it won't build up like with the orbital sander. All the orbital sander is going to do it give the fiberglass a nice massage and polish.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Yeah. I have a few 36 grit flap wheels and a grinder I'll use. I just wanted to see if the 40 grit and orbital would do any good and be able to keep things nice and level. But as you already mentioned that'll get me nowhere

I've never used a grinder much. I wasn't aware they made a pad that allows you to slap sandpaper on it.

When I looked on I boats, all I saw were the screw in garbard drain type drain plug. I really like the kind I had with the little rubber mushrooming plug. What exactly is that called?

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I called my local home depot today to see if they have arauco ply. Don't think they know what I'm talking about. I can get that they have exterior ply that's not pressure treated and that is rough on both sides, so I'm just gonna have to go look. I figure I can have the transom area ready for ply after tomorrow so I wanna get some ply and get it drying tomorrow or Friday. I still have to make up some clamps and get some screws. Then after I get the wood together and glued to the outer skin I can work on grinding the rest of the hull and cut out some stringers while it cures!

How important is it that the holes for the outdrive studs be perfectly square? Is it worth buying a 30$ jig for, or if I'm careful and use a square for reference or something would it be fine without it?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

This is the plywood you want:

23/32 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. BC Sanded Pine Plywood-166057 at The Home Depot

It is 3/4" BCX, B side is sanded smooth with no knots (but will have some patches), C side isn't as smooth and has knots, X stands for exterior grade.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Thanks. Picked up a rubber backed and 24 grit discs today. Really works well on the transom where I wanna keep everything flat in place of the flap wheels!

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Here's a tally of my supplies I've ordered so far, along with prices. The supplies I'd need and the prices was one of my biggest questions, and seems to be other peoples' most asked questions also.

Order one

10 4" red glaskoter roller tubes $21.00

4 4" squeegees for spreading pb $2.00

1 1"x3" radius roller $8.00

10 yards x 50" 1.5 oz csm $32.00

15 yards x 50" 1708 $123.75

10 quarts cabosil $15.20

1 lb 1/4" chopped strand $3.85

1 16 lb foam kit $67.00

Order total $319.28

Order number two

1/2 gal epoxy and hardener $39.75

5 gal polyester resin $125.00

18 yd x 50" 1.5 csm $57.60

16 yd x 6" 1708 tape $22.40

Assortment of mixing tubs in different sizes-they are cheap so I got quite a few. Might as well get my money's worth out of the shipping.

Order total $349.47

Totals are with shipping to Lancaster, SC.

I still plan to order 10 more gallons of resin, and maybe some csm tape for tabbing the transom? I dunno might cut my own. After the recent stringer layup revision I think maybe I have quite a bit of csm.

Any of you experienced guys think I need any more 1708 or csm? I think I'm laying 3 layers of csm on the deck. Two layers of 1708 over stringers, and one layer csm for capping. I think I'm doing csm tabbing on the transom. Then one two layers of 1708, each extending 3" past the previous layer of glass.

I've probably spent 100 bucks or so on blades and grinder accessories. I don't count the cost of the power tools I bought (grinder and multi tool so far) because those are things I needed anyway that I'lll use in the future.