First engine rebuild

[dockwrecker]

Re: First engine rebuild

Return them absolutely! That ring is junk and will break/burn through in a heartbeat! Who made that crap?? I've never seen a replacement ring out of the box that bad! Those sure don't look like Chro-Molly rings to me! Change brands!

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: First engine rebuild

Theyre Sealed Power brand.

I should have a replacement set Monday or so.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: First engine rebuild

Yeah, that would be a future cracked ring for sure.

Too bad, sealed power usually makes decent parts.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: First engine rebuild

Yea it sucks.

Hopefully Ill get some time to get the crank installed before I get the new rings.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: First engine rebuild

So I read I'm supposed to use oil on the threads when tightening the main caps. Any ol oil? Do I use it when I'm plastigage'n? Or just at final assy?

And what type of gasket stuff should I use when installing the rear main seal?

 

[GLENN M]

Re: First engine rebuild

make sure there are no burrs on mating surface of main caps.i usally run afine file over edges to make sure.

 

[proshadetree]

Re: First engine rebuild

No oil on plastigauge. Mash out and measure. Clean off the old crud with a rag and then assembly lube and 10 to 30 weight on bolts. I personalty use atf. Did you clean your crank first? I use brakeleen by crc. I use about 3 to 5 cans on an engine. Install crank, brakleen,Install pistons and rods, brakleen, cam and lifters, brakleen. I clean after every step . I re oil cylinders before I put heads on. ATF used in cylinders when installing rings and before head. Everyone has their method. My old man used stp for all engine assembly including rings. 2 piece oil seal gets a dab of RTV at ends 1 piece just install it dry.

 

[RogersJetboat454]

Re: First engine rebuild

So I read I'm supposed to use oil on the threads when tightening the main caps. Any ol oil? Do I use it when I'm plastigage'n? Or just at final assy?

And what type of gasket stuff should I use when installing the rear main seal?

Use a light weight oil, moly lube, or this stuff http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/arpultratorque.shtml.

I would use the lubricant on the threads of the main bolts when you plasti-gage the main bearings. You want the main bolts to be accurately torqued during the measurement.

If you have a 2 piece RMS, like Proshadetree said, a conservative dab of RTV at the edges of the seal (where they meet the cap, not the crank!) will be ok. A one piece rear main needs no help sealing. Just be sure you put a little assembly lube on the lips of the seal(s) that touch the crank (for both the 2 piece or 1 piece RMS). You want to make sure they aren't dry, so they won't burn up during initial start up.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: First engine rebuild

The torque specs on the main caps say 70 for the inside bolts and 80 for the outside bolts.

Which ones are inside and which are outside?

Are all the bolts inside except for the #1 main bearing and the rear main bearing where the rear seal is?

So all should be 70 ft lbs except for the #1 and the rear main seal bearing?

 

[GLENN M]

Re: First engine rebuild

on a four bolt main bolts closes to pan rail [outside of block] are outside bolts.bolts closes to crank are inside bolts.

 

[926bill]

Re: First engine rebuild

From the pictures your's is a two bolt main block. On a four bolt SBC the front and rear main caps have two bolts, the inner main caps have four bolts. Torque to 70 ftlbs.

BC

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: First engine rebuild

Well I got the crank installed.

I checked with Plastigage all of the main bearings. They all came out .002 which is right in the middle of the spec.

I checked the crankshaft endplay. It says in my manual to push the crank all the way forward and stick a feeler inbetween the front of the rear main bearing cap and the crankshaft. I couldnt move the crank at all foreward or aft but I did manage to get a .004 feeler in there and thats right in the middle of the spec so I think im ok there. I think its just tough to tell if your moving something .004 of an inch.

With all of the plastigage on the mains done I removed the crank, lubed all of the main bearings with assy lube, and reinstalled the crank but this time also installing the rear main seal.

I installed the seal (2 pc Fel Pro brand) according to instructions in my manual. I offset the seal about 1" and I used the black silicone on the ends.

The crank turns very freely and has no spots where it gets tight or catches.


Now I have the crank all installed and its time for the pistons.

I cleaned off all of the pistons and when doing so I noticed there is no mark I can find that shows which side of the piston faces the front. Isnt there supposed to be a dot or arrow or something on one side of the face of the piston that tells you which way faces front?

I got some 3/8" hose that was laying around a nd made some covers for the rod studs so they dont mess up the crank.

I practiced with a couple old rings putting them on and I can do it without any tools very easily now. So once I figure out about which way the pistons face I will install all of the rings and pistons.


I also didnt find anything about piston ring end gap. Nothing in the ring instructions and nothing in the manual.

Heres some pics.

 

[proshadetree]

Re: First engine rebuild

Are the rods numbered? Look at you first post. Gap on top . I use the 3/8 line trick to align my pistons to.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: First engine rebuild

Are the rods numbered? Look at you first post. Gap on top . I use the 3/8 line trick to align my pistons to.

Yes the pistons are numbered. How do you use the 3/8 line to align the pistons? I was just using it so the threads on the rods for the rod caps dont scratch the crank up. I dunno maybe your talking about the same thing.


I just gotta figure out which way they go. lol

Maybe Ill have to bring one down to the machine shop and see.

 

[proshadetree]

Re: First engine rebuild

Number 1 goes on first bore. Look at the timing chain side of your engine. The number one is ahead of other side. Number two is in opposite side of block. !

 

[Fishermark]

Re: First engine rebuild

Your pistons will be installed with the valve reliefs facing the center - or intake manifold side of the engine. Like pictured here:

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: First engine rebuild

Thanks Fishermark, Proshadetree, RogersJetboat454, Glenn M, and everyone else.


I think Im gonna have time to throw the pistons in today or tomorrow.


When I do the pistons, is this correct? I should check ring gap on all rings/bores making sure to keep which ring goes in which bore straight. Then I install the rings onto the pistons. Then I lube them up and install the pistons. Correct?

When I lube the pistons before installing them should I just smear some assy lube on the piston and rings, or should I dunk the whole piston in lube so everything gets a bunch of lube?

 

[HPTGreyGhost]

Re: First engine rebuild

I've always just smeared lube on the sides of the piston and poured some in the channels for the rings all the way around

 

[proshadetree]

Re: First engine rebuild

Before you install pistons make sure block is clean. Paper towel until they come out clean. Install rings then your hose for rod bolts. I always poured ATF on them and then used ring compressor to install. Some use 30 weight if the engine is going to sit a while. Lube bearing and install. Be careful when knocking into hole. I use a wooded hammer handle. It only needs a tap. Keep ring compressor firmly seated on the block.

 

[LAC_STS]

Re: First engine rebuild

Is there a certain position the piston should be in when Plastigage'n? Should it be at the bottom of the bore, top, or does it not matter?