Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

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stuck470

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This is STUCK470 here. Am starting a merc 470 rebuild but 1st have to remove that darn thing. Its been sitting for 21 years and every bolt I touch is frozen in place. Any tricks? I did the WD40, heat up with a propane torch, impact wrench, breaker bar, etc....got to the point where I can now slide engine forward but won't separate from the bell housing. I felt all around and under the bell housing thinking I missed a bolt but looks all clear. Engine will not budge away from the bell housing. I've never been rewarded with soaking anything in WD40 but I'm letting it all hang out here. I'm wondering about some frozen/rusted driveshaft splines??? I mean the outdrive drive line could be holding on? Have a Seloc manual but leaves a cold trail. Thanks for reading .
 
90stingray

90stingray

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

Pull the sterndrive off first... then pull the engine. Might help a little. And others will tell you to get a real manual... the Seloc is just a kneeling pad (i believe that's what i was told)
 
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Pete104

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

Sounds like you are bumping up against the flywheel housing!

+2 on the SELOC.
 
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stonyloam

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

Sounds like you are trying to pull the flywheel housing. NOT NECESSARY! If I am not mistaken you only need to pull 3 bolts (once the outdrive is off) to remove a 470. The two transom plate motor mount bolts #10 here http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...3&bnbr=20&bdesc=TRANSOM+PLATE+AND+SHIFT+CABLE and the front motor mount bolt here http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show...88/37.png&inbr=908&bnbr=180&bdesc=FRONT+MOUNT As stingray says, you MUST remove the outdrive first.
 
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fmalott

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

on my boat there was 4 bolts to pull my 470 out of boat stonyloam your correct on the bolts to pull at the back of motor but the front mount you have to pull the mount out with the motor so you have to remove the two bolts that hold the mount to the floor, on my boat you had to slide the motor forward then lift out once the motor was out then i took the mount off motor much easier to do it this way
 
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stonyloam

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

OK thanks for the info, I have not had to pull mine......yet LOL.
 
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fmalott

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

stonyloam said:
OK thanks for the info, I have not had to pull mine......yet LOL.
Click to expand...
i'm not sure if you know or not when you pull the motor and the front mount is still on the motor to release the mount from motor you take the one mount bolt and take the top nut off only, you don't want to start taking off the other big nuts (LOL) they are for adjusting the height of motor for alinment so becarefull what you take off the front mount it's nice when you can put the mount on when it's the right adjustment for height. here is a picture of the nuts you don't touch(LOL)when you take the top nut off (you can't see in picture) it will release the two mounts from each other the two big nuts in the picture don't touch them just pull the mounts from each other and your good to go those two nust are the ones you adjust for height
 

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stuck470

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

Wow..totally different than what I followed in Seloc.. Looked like a separation at the block/bell housing. Slide it forward after unbolting the front motor mount/stringer connection. As for removing the outdrive the 6 large nuts are off and I cannot pull it free. Thats where I am stymied. Is it the fact that the splines are rusted/welded into the engine coupler? Do you have to shift into forward, stand on your left foot, spin around twice???? Do you access the drive shaft somehow and cut it? That would seem radical. Where to get a good manual would be a great question also. Thanks to all
 
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fmalott

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

make sure it's in forward gear it will come off it sounds like it's rusted to the gimble bearing keep pulling and you can swear if you want once that's off motor will be eaier to come out
 
90stingray

90stingray

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stuck470 said:
Wow..totally different than what I followed in Seloc.. Looked like a separation at the block/bell housing. Slide it forward after unbolting the front motor mount/stringer connection. As for removing the outdrive the 6 large nuts are off and I cannot pull it free. Thats where I am stymied. Is it the fact that the splines are rusted/welded into the engine coupler? Do you have to shift into forward, stand on your left foot, spin around twice???? Do you access the drive shaft somehow and cut it? That would seem radical. Where to get a good manual would be a great question also. Thanks to all
Click to expand...

OMG! Do not cut your shaft!!! Get down behind the engine and spray some penetrating oil on the splines if you think its rusted there. But most likely rusted to your gimbal bearing. But yes, fwd gear is a must. Post up your engine and drive serial numbers and the forum gurus will post you a link to the oem manuals. Sell that seloc on ebay or something. Might get you enough to buy a 6 pack :)

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 
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stuck470

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

Everything disconnected from outdrive. I will find service manual #6. Thanks to the sticky note on the Mercruiser forum R.E.: "must need to know info"..errr something like that anywho...had link to service manuals and browsed them last night. Man I gotta get this done because don't want to miss fishing season this year..thanks to all BTW . You will hear the cussin coming out of the WestCoast tomorrow.
 
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stuck470

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

Thought I'd remove the gear case and try to manually line up the shift slider and the shift shaft...possible? I noticed the gear case had 2 parallel cracks running just back of the leading edge, vertical and apparent freeze damage. Wow. Let them sit in NW weather and you get what you deserve. Thought I'd pull this thing and hang it on a motor stand. 2 years from retirement and would soak it with time then. I can weld aluminum so would that be an option to fix the gear case? Clutching at straws. So plan B is to re-power with a low hour 3.0 I saw locally. With an I drive would they match up? Boat is a 1978 cuddy Campion and the 470 is same year. For fishing this coming spring that would be a temporary cure. How about location of the front mount on the stringer, same as the 470 ? How about length of drive shaft, and splines. You'd want the drive line splines to fit and extend into the back of new motor far enough. Don't fall asleep reading this jumble.
 
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stonyloam

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

stuck470 said:
Thought I'd remove the gear case and try to manually line up the shift slider and the shift shaft...possible?
Click to expand...

To remove the outdrive? If you drop the gearcase you do not have to put it into forward, because the intermediate shift shaft drops out of the upper shift shaft, and there is then nothing holding it, no need to line it up. With the gearcase off just pull the driveshaft housing (upper).
 
NHGuy

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

But you do need to remove the upper to get the motor out.

Here is a penetrating oil recipe from TomSawyerOwner
"a secret mixture to break loose stuff like this. I was shocked how well the stuff works and I'll never buy another can of penetrating oil again. 50/50 mix of Dextron transmission fluid and acetone. just soak the (part) good and let it sit for a while or even overnite. this mixture is amazing I put it on anything rusted that needs broke loose. Even removed the brake bleeders out of my 1988 bronco with a open end wrench like they were installed the day before."

To free up the gimbal bearing from the driveshaft you'll need penetrating oil or some of TomSawyerOwner's juice. You want spray it back toward the transom along the driveshaft.
Make sure it is in forward gear, the tilt rams are disconnected and THEN pull the drive off the back of the boat.
If it won't move, come back or do a search for stuck alpha's. There have been a few and there are some usable tactics available if it won't come off.
 
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stuck470

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

Thanks NH and Stony for the o/d gearcase removal reply and the Super Penetrater formula. So the merc 3.0 swap question is still out there. Buying some time with a low hour 3.0 replacement motor til I can rebuild the 470 would work for me. I would assume that the older drive(I believe it is an "I" drive being 1978) would not couple up to the newer 3.0..or the motor mounting would drive me to drink. Any thoughts are appreciated..I can imagine that the drive shaft length or splines would be different?
 
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fishrdan

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

stuck470 said:
So the merc 3.0 swap question is still out there.
Click to expand...

Not a good option. The 3.0 is 30HP less and then you'll have a LOT of things to match up, to make it work.
 
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stonyloam

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Re: Frozen 470 engine/bell housing bolts, motor mount bolts, etc

fishrdan said:
Not a good option. The 3.0 is 30HP less and then you'll have a LOT of things to match up, to make it work.
Click to expand...

Agree, might better spend the time and $ on the 470.
 
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