Johnson 1984 70 HP

[Tony L S]

I bought this kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/252945246049
Of course I changed them. It was 70 for kit. Not cheap

 

[flyingscott]

Did you rebuild the carbs a long time ago?

 

[Tony L S]

No. About a week ago. I took it apart to check float adjustment. Would lock tight cause this? I used it on bowl screws.

 

[flyingscott]

Is.that 2 different carbs in the pic? Because if it is only one carb, you doubled the gaskets. There should be only one in that spot.

 

[racerone]

You need to use factory kits.-----I can't believe some of this aftermarket junk that is available today !!----Do a complete clean of the carburetors again.

 

[Tony L S]

I am 100 percent positive I changed these gaskets. Of course they did not look like this when I replaced them. They have deteriorated. I do have the old gaskets. I dug them out of the trash to confirm.

 

[flyingscott]

Put up a.pic of the packaging. Your link says they are BRP parts.

 

[Tony L S]

I don't think I have the box, just old gaskets. I will look for box.

 

[oldboat1]

In any case, you have to assume there are bits of gasket lurking in there. Are you putting some kind of solvent in the gas tank? Neoprene gaskets would probably survive, but probably not cork. Or maybe you left the gaskets in place when you did the chem dip.

Having said that, a close up of the pics seems to show some kind of build up (though maybe the lighting and shadow). I also think you should clean the carbs again. I would soak tops and bottoms after removing non-metal parts, then go through every little opening with soft wire and carb spray, using the plastic nozzle.

 

[Tony L S]

I add a little sea foam to my fuel. It would not cause these problems. I stripped the carbs before placing them in chem dip. No gaskets or plastic left on the carbs. I also placed them in a ultrasonic cleaner.

I have been sold junk gaskets. Anyone that reads this threads should not buy the kit linked above.

I have cleaned the carbs again. I did not take the Welch plugs out again, since I don't not have replacements. I have ordered new gaskets. I put the carbs back together with the original gaskets(they where no in bad shape).

I am.going to try and get it running today. I will post the results.

Thanks to everyone who posted.

 

[oldboat1]

I add a little sea foam to my fuel. It would not cause these problems.

You know this because....??

 

[flyingscott]

I can say with some certainty that seafoam did not.destroy those gaskets. BRP does not package those in boxes each kit should have been an individual bag that clearly say BRP on them.

 

[oldboat1]

Depends on the amount of Seafoam, and the quality of the gaskets. If the suggestion is that these are not Systematched parts, that issue should be posed with the seller.

If Seafoam does anything in the way of freeing up deposits, debris from the tank would likely be deposited in the carbs. So IMO fresh fuel is sufficient.

 

[Tony L S]

Good to know. Got it running today. No gas coming out of carb. Used repair manual to sync carbs. How variable should the idle be on a tachometer? Seems to be jumping around a little. Like between 620- 700. Is this normal or a sign that something still isn't right?
Also I was going to chech idle timing. I don't have a lot of experience with this. The book says +/-1 btdc I think you start the engine and let it warm up. Move the throttle till it touches the center of the roller. Then check idle time?
Thanks.

 

[flyingscott]

Depends on the amount of Seafoam, and the quality of the gaskets. If the suggestion is that these are not Systematched parts, that issue should be posed with the seller.

If Seafoam does anything in the way of freeing up deposits, debris from the tank would likely be deposited in the carbs. So IMO fresh fuel is sufficient.

No.it would more the quality of the gaskets than the amt of seafoam. I have pumped carbs full of seafoam and let them.sit for weeks and not seen that.

 

[oldboat1]

Can't help with the timing question, but sounds like the idle is close to correct. Warmed up, in gear and in the water, you are in the idle range. If it's rolling a little and you have an idle mix needle on your carb, try leaning the air mix out slightly (clockwise), a little at a time. See if the idle evens out. If the idle speed increases more than you want, throttle it down -- check for an idle stop screw (throttle).

The spitting back through the carb(s) might have been caused by a blocked/partially blocked air vent in the carb -- maybe cleared now with the last cleaning.

 

[Tony L S]

I don't think the carb had an idle mix screw. I could be mistaken. I only see an idle screw.

 

[oldboat1]

think it would be the traditional needle up at the carb top, if you have it. I'm an old schooler -- miss 'em.

[ed. 75 hp model only, apparently. Need to trade up!]

 

[catman977]

I have a Similar Motor that I'm going to do a 3 Carb Rebuild. It's a 1990 70 Hp Evinrude Model E70TLES8.
Each carb has an air adjustment screw. Is there a set amount of turns to pre adjust each of these after reassemble,
and can they be synched or balanced with a Manometer for smooth Idle. Thanks for all responders.

 

[racerone]

No need to use a manometer on these 2 strokes.---That is for 4 stroke engines.----Everybody picks on the carburetors looking for the magic fix.------What other trouble shooting have you done ?-----What is your motor doing / not doing ??