Mercruiser 140 3.0 Makeover

[Goldie627]

soaking the rusty timing gear cover in vinegar...

 

[Goldie627]

I was ready to install the crankshaft and main seal and got stuck... i know to apply rtv to the shaded areas but where do i apply the perfect seal? cylinder block seal area? is that under the seal?

also do i put rtv on the ends of the main seals where the bottoms meet the tops? (where the main seal ends would squish together)





i haven't removed the old top main seal yet, it kinda looks like there may be perfect seal under the main seal but i cant tell..

 

[chevymaher]

Goldie you need a cam. That lobe is wasted and will be completely flat in very short order. That is where your mid range power problem is. The valve on that lobe isn't even opening half way. If it is a exhaust lobe then it is causing it to cough burnt gases into the intake tract when it opens.

See the pits in it. Just take my word for it. It is wasted. It is completely through the hardened metal.

 

[Goldie627]

Goldie you need a cam. That lobe is wasted and will be completely flat in very short order. That is where your mid range power problem is. The valve on that lobe isn't even opening half way. If it is a exhaust lobe then it is causing it to cough burnt gases into the intake tract when it opens.

See the pits in it. Just take my word for it. It is wasted. It is completely through the hardened metal.

I'm sorry Chevy, that's not my cam with the orange background, just an example of what a bad cam looks like. I posted it for other noobs like me that are trying to learn. I'll go back and label the pic so people know its for reference only and not my cam. Happy New Year my brother!

 

[chevymaher]

Happy New year to you to.

 

[Maclin]

I may be confused with the goals of the project, sorry. So the pistons and connecting rods are still in the block? I guess you are not worried about eggshaped rods and related?

 

[Goldie627]

I may be confused with the goals of the project, sorry. So the pistons and connecting rods are still in the block? I guess you are not worried about eggshaped rods and related?

hi mac, i made a mistake and corrected it. The cam pic with the orange background is NOT my cam and is for reference only. I thought it would be helpful to other noobs out there (like me) who are trying to identify a good vs bad cam lobe. Im learning as i go and trying to share with others who are in the same boat

sorry for the confusion

*pistons and connecting rods are still in the block

*goal of the makeover project - the primary goals were oilpan gasket and intake gasket. but, along the way since the motor is out and upside down, im doing the main bearing, rear main seal and rod bearings. Also a review and polish of the crankshaft. I'll also take this time to remove rust from the oilpan and timing cover, Then paint both pieces. When the low end work is done ill spin the engine right side up and start on the intake.

 

[Goldie627]

Im shopping for a suitable RTV for the oil pan sealant. Service manual calls for Quicksilver RTV Sealant part number 92-91601-1. That part number is obsolete, possible replacement part numbers are 92-809825 (loctite 587 blue) and 92-809826 (loctite 5900 ultra black)

any rtv sealant recommendations?

any thoughts on permatex ultra black rtv?

 

[fishrdan]

I've used the black ultra Permatex RTV and like it, don't like the blue. (Also like their copper RTV, but haven't seen it in a while.) I assume you're using the RTV for the main cap and end of seals??? I wouldn't use RTV for the whole pan, or the side gaskets, since the pan end seals are designed for the thickness of the side gaskets.

Fel-Pro makes a 1-piece silicone pan gasket that I used once, $50, and it was shot (not re-usable as they say) when I removed the pan 4-5 years later. I went back with the 4-piece pan gasket set this time. Glued the cork gaskets to the block with 3M weatherstrip adhesive, then a light coat of RTV on the cork gasket when the pan was installed. Don't RTV both sides of the cork gasket, or it will slip out. Better to put the side gaskets on dry, than to RTV both sides (top/bottom).

 

[Goldie627]

I've used the black ultra Permatex RTV and like it, don't like the blue. (Also like their copper RTV, but haven't seen it in a while.) I assume you're using the RTV for the main cap and end of seals??? I wouldn't use RTV for the whole pan, or the side gaskets, since the pan end seals are designed for the thickness of the side gaskets.

Fel-Pro makes a 1-piece silicone pan gasket that I used once, $50, and it was shot (not re-usable as they say) when I removed the pan 4-5 years later. I went back with the 4-piece pan gasket set this time. Glued the cork gaskets to the block with 3M weatherstrip adhesive, then a light coat of RTV on the cork gasket when the pan was installed. Don't RTV both sides of the cork gasket, or it will slip out. Better to put the side gaskets on dry, than to RTV both sides (top/bottom).

Thanks Dan I appreciate the info

 

[Goldie627]

For the oil pan gasket sealant, I had another suggestion of 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 5200

 

[Rick Stephens]

No way I would use 5200. Not made for that and waaaaaay too hard to get off if you ever need to. Stick with simple.

 

[fishrdan]

Agree 100% with Rick, don't use 3M 5200, it's moisture cured. The only way for the internal sealant to cure would be moisture inside the engine...

Last time I used a FelPro 4-piece pan gasket, installed as I mentioned above, been 7-8 years, no leaks.

 

[Goldie627]

Thanks Dan, I'll use your method

 

[Goldie627]

There is a recessed area in the block where the main bearing cap sits. On the bearing side under the cap no sealant? On the seal side of the main bearing cap use sealant? If yes, perfect seal or RTV?

do I use RTV in between the gaskets where they overlap?

 

[Goldie627]

This morning i pulled the camshaft and took it to two different machine shops, they inspected the camshaft and the camshaft timing gear, they both said it looks ok and did not need to be replaced. Both shops said the pictures didn't do the camshaft any justice and to run it. One shop said the only way i should replace it is if i was building a whole new motor with all new parts.

so at this point I can start putting my lower end back together. I will make a makeover update video soon, things are going well and I'm happy so far with the progress.

I have some rust on various parts of the motor and I'm looking at por line of products for rust inhibitors and enamel paint. Any other brands I should look at?

Thanks guys

 

[Rick Stephens]

There is a recessed area in the block where the main bearing cap sits. On the bearing side under the cap no sealant? On the seal side of the main bearing cap use sealant? If yes, perfect seal or RTV?

Teensy film of RTV on outside of seal. Perfect Seal between cap and block - that stops it from seeping through the mating area.

do I use RTV in between the gaskets where they overlap?

Yah. Doesn't take much, but seals up the junction and doesn't cause the rail gaskets to slide.

 

[Scott Danforth]

permatex #3 is what I use between bearing cap and block. RTV ultra black or RTV ultra copper for gaskets that need it.

 

[fishrdan]

Be sure to use engine assembly lube on the bearings: main, rod, cam and cam lobes. Everything else a healthy coat of oil.

 

[Goldie627]

Anybody tried this stuff?