Ok, how do I do this?

[metalwizard]

I have a small hole in my Hull.. right up front dead center. seems the previous owner ran into something. it's really small but needs fixing..

Fiberglass is no problem. I build High power rockets all the time so I have LOTS of experience glassing.

My question is, The damage is dead center (tri hull) and it's right where she sits on the trailer.

whats the best way to get it off the trailer, and the trailer out of the way so I can fix it. AND be safe enough to be under it while I do the repair?

Will simple jack stands be ok? or will that be more likely to cause more damage?

Thanks for the input.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

I'd just slide it back on the trailer a foot or 2. If you need more height to work under the boat, put the trailer on jack stands, or jack the tongue up and then jack stands.

 

[54fleetwin]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

pics would be helpful

 

[oops!]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

to get it off the trailer.......

tounge down....block the back end of the boat.

tounge up....block the keel at the bow.....walk trailer out as far as you can.....then re set and do it again till clear.

jack stands wont do it.....they are too sharp.....but you can modify them.....but you wont get the height you need....

use what ever blocks you have handy.

and we need pics to tell you how to proceed with the repair......but....a hole uasually calls for an inside out repair

 

[metalwizard]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

to get it off the trailer.......

tounge down....block the back end of the boat.

tounge up....block the keel at the bow.....walk trailer out as far as you can.....then re set and do it again till clear.

jack stands wont do it.....they are too sharp.....but you can modify them.....but you wont get the height you need....

use what ever blocks you have handy.

and we need pics to tell you how to proceed with the repair......but....a hole uasually calls for an inside out repair

Thanks for that info. That is what I was asking for. I knew I could not just jack stand it and roll the trailer out. and i thought stands might do more damage than good.

I'll post a pic of the repair. but seriously it's NOTHING. the hole is maybe 1/8" maybe 1/4" and I don't know that it goes all the way through. I am not getting any real water in my bilge. and no real signs of ant rot etc.

Most of the damage is to the gelcoat so I figure sand the gelcoat about a foot either way. rough up the fiberglass lay some HEAVY glass and resin, lay some no stick release film over it, sand bag it and lift the boat from the bags. (to put pressure on the repair and to squeeze out any extra resin) let it cure. sand lightly to roughen it up. then a layer of REALLY LIGHT finishing glass. same proceedure. sand again then gelcoat. sand once more, fill if necessary to smooth then prime and then I'm either going to lightly sand the entire underside and shoot a couple layers of epoxy based paint..

as small as the the hole is I would feel good using some calking to close it up (thats a joke for the most part)

One more thing. it's a trihull, so stands (ok blocks) along the two side should get it up high enough for me to lay under it and do the repair. also the motor and drive is out right now. so it's really light. but I still wont put it on stands. I figure blocks with carpet on them.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

Thanks for that info. That is what I was asking for. I knew I could not just jack stand it and roll the trailer out. and i thought stands might do more damage than good.

I'll post a pic of the repair. but seriously it's NOTHING. the hole is maybe 1/8" maybe 1/4" and I don't know that it goes all the way through. I am not getting any real water in my bilge. and no real signs of ant rot etc.

Most of the damage is to the gelcoat so I figure sand the gelcoat about a foot either way. rough up the fiberglass lay some HEAVY glass and resin, lay some no stick release film over it, sand bag it and lift the boat from the bags. (to put pressure on the repair and to squeeze out any extra resin) let it cure. sand lightly to roughen it up. then a layer of REALLY LIGHT finishing glass. same proceedure. sand again then gelcoat. sand once more, fill if necessary to smooth then prime and then I'm either going to lightly sand the entire underside and shoot a couple layers of epoxy based paint..

as small as the the hole is I would feel good using some calking to close it up (thats a joke for the most part)

One more thing. it's a trihull, so stands (ok blocks) along the two side should get it up high enough for me to lay under it and do the repair. also the motor and drive is out right now. so it's really light. but I still wont put it on stands. I figure blocks with carpet on them.

Hello m8..

If its only 1/8x1/4 possible hole ( possible only in the gel.. ) then why all the lifting and taking off the trailer ??

Grinding and setting on sandbags for your glass to get rid of all that extra resin ? erm.. did I miss something ? your planning on doing a 12" x 12" Heavy repair ? ..

I agree with some here.. pics then slide back on the trailer to do the repair.

You can even remove a roller or 2 .. but sandbags I would not Trust under support while Im working on it

Pics please

YD.

 

[metalwizard]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

I'll get some pics today.

I may have exaggerated The entire repair may be about 12" wide (when done) to me its easier to feather it in and make it look good.

The sanbags are just to put pressure on the repair while it cures. and so compress it as much as possible.

The damage is RIGHT where a roller on the trailer is, and even removing the roller would not leave me good access. I'd rather lift the boat and move the trailer. at leas a couple feet.

Yeah my repair thoughts may be overboard. but its right were the water will be slamming once on plane so I want it to be a good repair, and I do't want to do it again.

 

[metalwizard]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

ok heres a CLOSE UP. I cant get my finger in the hole. looking at it from underneath it definitely goes through, so it needs a good fix.

If I were to do the repair from the inside. I would have to cut a hole in my floor in the BOW RIDER area. I don't really want to do that.

I think If I stuff the hole with some cut up glass soaked with resin first and let that cure I should be good to go.

I rolled the boat back far enough to get it off the rollers for the picture. but I would not want to work under it that way just seems unstable.

 

[redfury]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

Ouch. That should be the thickest part of the hull, so I'd only assume that that took a repeated beating to get that bad.

I'd want to repair that from the inside and the outside to get a permanent repair that won't "pop" out again. You can beef that up while you are in there also. An outside repair only is only going to leave you with a weakened hull from dishing the glass out and thinning the original material that makes up the hulls monolithic structure/strength. You can build up the glass inside as much as you want and spread it out, and then have a smaller patch on the outside to repair the cosmetics and bond the repair to the inside repair.

Chances are you may have to deal with the stringer in the center of the boat also. Possibly cutting it back a small portion. It's going to depend on what you discover when you get to it.

Regardless, you can repair it from the outside, but take this into consideration, what part of the hull takes the most abuse on any boat manufactured with a center Keel?

 

[metalwizard]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

Ouch. That should be the thickest part of the hull, so I'd only assume that that took a repeated beating to get that bad.

I'd want to repair that from the inside and the outside to get a permanent repair that won't "pop" out again. You can beef that up while you are in there also. An outside repair only is only going to leave you with a weakened hull from dishing the glass out and thinning the original material that makes up the hulls monolithic structure/strength. You can build up the glass inside as much as you want and spread it out, and then have a smaller patch on the outside to repair the cosmetics and bond the repair to the inside repair.

Chances are you may have to deal with the stringer in the center of the boat also. Possibly cutting it back a small portion. It's going to depend on what you discover when you get to it.

Regardless, you can repair it from the outside, but take this into consideration, what part of the hull takes the most abuse on any boat manufactured with a center Keel?

That brings up a good question. is there a stringer right there dead center at the bow? I mean I AIN'T going to split the boat to repair that. NO WAY IN HELL.. I'd rather fix that ten times.

If there is a stringer right there, that may be why I cant see past the hole. I mean I can see into the hole but its dark and it DOES NOT look hollow. it only looks like I could stick something in there about 1 inch and it would hit something.

 

[gozierdt]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

I'd say that hole goes completely through the main hull structure. I'd start by grinding the opening back so that you can at least get a glimpse of what's behind it, at least you'll find out if there is a stringer there or not. I'd sort of doubt it. If you look at a lot of the restoration threads here, and look at what's taken out of the hull, there aren't a lot with a strong member right behind the keel. Maybe I haven't seen the right threads, but what I've seen doesn't have those members. How deep does a screwdriver go if you push it in straight up, versus off to the side. Does it hit something hard or springy/spongy? You could even take a 1/4" or so drill bit and put it up an inch or so- do you get wood shavings- wet, dry, what?

The recommendation that I've read most often recommends an 8/1 bevel for best strength in fixing punctures/deep scratches in fiberglass.

West Epoxy has a good handbook on repairing fiberglass damage:

http://westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-and-Maintenance.pdf

Good Luck!!

 

[metalwizard]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

I'd say that hole goes completely through the main hull structure. I'd start by grinding the opening back so that you can at least get a glimpse of what's behind it, at least you'll find out if there is a stringer there or not. I'd sort of doubt it. If you look at a lot of the restoration threads here, and look at what's taken out of the hull, there aren't a lot with a strong member right behind the keel. Maybe I haven't seen the right threads, but what I've seen doesn't have those members. How deep does a screwdriver go if you push it in straight up, versus off to the side. Does it hit something hard or springy/spongy? You could even take a 1/4" or so drill bit and put it up an inch or so- do you get wood shavings- wet, dry, what?

The recommendation that I've read most often recommends an 8/1 bevel for best strength in fixing punctures/deep scratches in fiberglass.

West Epoxy has a good handbook on repairing fiberglass damage:

http://westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-and-Maintenance.pdf

Good Luck!!

Thanks thats good info. Like i said the repair to me seems straight forward. I am into High power rocketry, I have built 250 lb all fiberglass rockets that have done MACH2 , I have crashed them and made repairs and taken them back to Mach2.

I think fixing this is going to be pretty simple. I am known to go a little overkill, but I don't want to cut into my floor. two reasons. I may find more troubles, and I really don't want to put that kind of time/money into this boat. It floats. it runs it does NOT take on water. I feel safe with it for a few years. then it may be time to upgrade/complete rebuild.

I want to fix the hole so it gets no worse. that should last me a few years no problem.

Your thought about a drillbit inside to see if there is wet wood there is great. I will try that for sure. if there is nothing behind it I'm doing a good patchjob from the outside. and I keep an eye on it. Remember I can see the spot with it on the trailer so if my repair fails I will know it. also its a lake boat. I am never on the water more than a few hours at a time. if it does fail.. I am going to know it pretty fast.

I feel like I am making an excuse. but some people here except only 100% perfect.(and thats good sometimes) I promise you this is a $500 CL boat. it ain't worth putting that much into it. If i get 3 or 4 years out of it (my first boat) and I learn a few things I am doing really well.

If I was planning on taking a 3 hour tour across stormy waters... I would be more likely to rip into it.

The size of this hole is half the size of my bilge pump. if it completely fails.. I can pump out faster than it could pump in and I could get to the dock even faster.

remember I just asked how to get it off the trailer so I could get in ad do my beat.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

You Should be fine with your repair. The bow doesnt flex soo...

This isnt Rocket Science .

YD.

 

[metalwizard]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

You Should be fine with your repair. The bow doesnt flex soo...

This isnt Rocket Science .

YD.

Thanks Finally someone that understands.. LOL

seriously I read the attache file the other poster added, and there is some great info there.

They recommended the exact method I was planning to make this repair.

I se NO reason to rip that far into this. Maybe my picture makes the hole look HUGE. seriously I can barely fit my pinkey in the hole.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

 

[redfury]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

That picture makes the hole look huge...perhaps next time, tape a quarter next to it to show perspective.

Beyond all that, the only thing that you probably have a problem with is a stringer that is going to be rotting in the front from water intrusion. Doesn't mean all that much right now, but it's something to think about....you could always run a drill bit into the hole and see what it pulls out.

 

[metalwizard]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

That picture makes the hole look huge...perhaps next time, tape a quarter next to it to show perspective.

Beyond all that, the only thing that you probably have a problem with is a stringer that is going to be rotting in the front from water intrusion. Doesn't mean all that much right now, but it's something to think about....you could always run a drill bit into the hole and see what it pulls out.

Great suggestion. I poked around in there, and I only hit fiberglass, seems solid. Now that does not mean that the strigner down the line is good, but I have no access to that.

I agree next time I will throw something for scale. I though I described it good, but yes something gets lost in translation.

Thanks for all the input.

 

[sasto]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

Did you get her off the trailer....Wizzard?

 

[westexasrepublic]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

ive seen someone on here use tires as support for the hull of the trailer... if you have alot of those laying around, or know somone who does...

 

[geeco1]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

You said that the motor and drive is out so it is really light.... why not flip the hull and then you don't have to worry about getting underneath? It's much easier to work on the bottom that way.

 

[redfury]

Re: Ok, how do I do this?

You said that the motor and drive is out so it is really light.... why not flip the hull and then you don't have to worry about getting underneath? It's much easier to work on the bottom that way.

For that small of a repair, moving the boat back on the trailer and supporting the rear would be easier in the long run, if the trailer has a spot that he can move it back to where it can be worked on.

Part of the problem with the size description also, is that sometimes the reading comprehension around any message board like this can go down when there is a picture involved in the first place....potential "helpful" posts get littered down with snap judgments from the pic, instead of the text...not that I'd be guilty of ever doing that