Outboard boat taking on too much water in splashwell

[ringo111]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

i would like to get on water asap .but safe.i am not going to keep this boat for long a year or 2.if i do sell boat i would for them to know it is safe.i drilled some hole around area in question ,wood is solid no corking or wetness.i hope this means it is good.as for your help ,ineed all the help i can get.thank god for this great forum.you guys are the best.yes i do get discourage sometimes.i didn,t think buying a boat could be so stressful lol.thanks

 

[mr 88]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

Well hindsight is 20/20 and you have learned a expensive lesson,one way or another.I am sure next time you will post up here BEFORE you purchase a boat.Everyone would have told you to run from this after seeing pics.If done that way it would not be stressful and you probably would have a nice boat underneath you. So now all you can do is try and salvage it with the least amount of money and keep it seaworthy.You mentioned putting a 70 on it.That boat looks too heavy for a 70 and at best you might get it up on a plane with 4 adults aboard.As mentioned if you look around ebay,craigs,marinas and ASK on the engine forums you may find a long shaft lower unit with spacer at a very good price. That will get your engine up to the correct height.You might be able to spread out the stress points on the transom with knee braces and a 1/4" metal plate as mentioned before.All of this may set you back 4-500.

 

[halfmoa]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

what did you notice

I see a small home cooked transom with no true structural support. I see that setup like this:

Joe has a 200 pound decoration that he wants to mount on his wall.
Joe bolts the 200 pound object through the drywall and puts a 16"X24" piece of 3/4" plywood behind the drywall in between the studs.
Joe thinks it looks good so it must be OK.
The next home owner (YOU) likes the decoration but it falls to the floor when you use it. A 17"X25" chunk of drywall ripped free of the living room wall even though it's still bolted securely to the 16"X24" piece of plywood.
Joe is the previous owner.
The decoration is your motor.
The home is your boat.
The wall is your fiberglass hull.
The plywood is your home cooked transom.

Well it made sense to me....

Point is that the fiberglass hull of your boat is being depended on holding weight and, more importantly, stress that it's not capable of holding. It's like trying to hang "Joe's" decoration on drywall. Drywall can't hold it and sooner or later it'll fail.

The good news is this: There's plenty of people on this forum that'll hold your hand as your fix it....even if they're 1000s of miles away.

 

[ringo111]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

great people.

 

[ringo111]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

Change my mind.I want this boat done right.will I have to cut out all the transom.how will it be done so boat transom is going to be higher than water level,using same motor.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

You will not cut the outer layer of fiberglass but you will need to remove the entire mess of a splashwell, the inner layer of glass and all of the wood...... Pm a mod and ask for this thread to be moved to dry dock..... There are folks that will guide you through step by step....

As for the engine... Ideally, you will either need to find a longer engine OR find an extension kit for that one ... You COULD use a bracket or jack plate and mount the existing engine as is on the new transom but you will still face the danger of the engine being swamped and your tilt/trim system will still be under water

 

[oops!]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

Change my mind.I want this boat done right.will I have to cut out all the transom.how will it be done so boat transom is going to be higher than water level,using same motor.

yeah ringo....smoke on the water is correct....

you have several issues....
the legnth of the motor leg......it is the wrong one for the boat....
and because of this....the height of the splash well/transom.

BOTH of these issues must be dealt with before the boat is safe.....

you can get a used long shaft lower unit for cheap......this will fix your motor issues.

the transom we can deal with.

as smoke suggested.....its time to move this to the dry dock. and time for you to start reading. click the link in my sig....first 10 pages is transom stringer. forget about the extension stuff......but the info in the thread is what you need.

to remove the transom......the motor has to come off....

then we are gonna climb in the bilge and remove all the fibreglass that is covering your transom wood......and take out all the transom wood. we will most likely have to take the back section of floor out so the new transom can go back in.

we are going to need a lot of pics. we want to see the total inside back section....the back of the boat after the motor is off....the transom/floor joint area.

how are you with tools?...are you set up?....circ saw.....grinder....sawzall...drill...sanders and polishers...?

oh.....and you will also need a place to do it.

we will walk you right thru this ringo. dont sweat it bud. depending on the time you have to work on the boat......you can be on the water in less than a month

cheers bud
oops

 

[ringo111]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

Thanks..very good at all tools mention,have done glass work in the pass.hope I am up to task the motor is off now .pics.on post 80

 

[Jeep Man]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

Hey Ringo. I spent the first 18 yrs. of my life just west of you on the Burin peninsula. Looks like someone has butchered a very nice boat. With your experience and the crew on here we can bring her back. The first thing is your motor. What shaft length do you have? You will need a 20" and possibly a 25". A buddy of mine is struggling with a similar problem. He tried the plate idea with bad results. Bottom line, he still needs the right shaft length for thing to be right. fixing the transom is the way to go, but will only work with the correct motor. Good Luck and keep us posted.

 

[oops!]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

ok bud....lets do this.......

but lets get you moved to the restoration section......

click the triangle in the bottom left hand of any post....and politely ask to have this moved to the restoration section.....or....let this one die...and start another thread in the resto section....

first thing first.....

make a plan.....

your basic steps are
demolition.
removal
replacement
re construction
and finally finish/clean up.

to do a transom properly....it is usually easier to remove the cap of the boat.....or cut the top of the cap so you have access to the transom....
being a former i/o....you might be able to crawl in there and do the replacement with out either of these steps...you are the only one that can make that call.

when you remove the transom you are only removing the 2 ins of wood that is in front of the skin of the hull.
take your grinder....and cut the inner fibreglass layer so you can get to the wood......then try and stick a screwdriver between the transom wood and the outer hull.
start prying...and pulling.....if you can get it apart.....great...if not......just grind the wood away.

on the top of the restoration forum.....there is a sticky.....in it is safety basics of grinding and glassing. read it and follow it. this is super important.

 

[ringo111]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

i have another problem ,i think i got hold of previous ownerboy did we have it out on the phone i asked him if he had same problem with water be level with the transom .bear with me he said thats is why he put outboard outside .apprently the motor was inside of boat.pics of transom i sent was wrong transom yes thats right,he told me him and his buddy closed in bottom of boat on stern.and put in new transom of 3 peaces of 3/4 plywood/within past 6 months,itold him water is level with transom .saying he knew that and he didn,t thing it was a big problem.so i had a few choice words for him.he did send me a picof boat before he changed over.sending that pic now.

 

[oops!]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

yeah....we knew this was a conversion from I/O to OB.

dont worry.....when you dig into it......you will be able to erase what the po has done....and repair it so it will be like an OB is supposed to be.

however......this still does not negate the fact that most owners do not like their craft after an I/O to OB conversion.

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

If you weren't convinced to scrap that hull you should be now. I don't get why you are so determined to fix this one. You want to "get on the water ASAP" and you want to be safe. Those two things will not occur with the boat you have.
You want to keep it a year or two--but you have a year's work ahead of you. Why sink all the time and money in something that temporary?
You are going to sink a lot of money and with questionable results. Now you have to trust your seller's skills in fillnig in the bottom of the hull--and his abilities (and lack thereof) is boldly exhibited on the transom.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

I would also scrap that hull. Sorry.

 

[ringo111]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

i got to re think all this over again.there is more cons than pros for this. as for holding on hull .i really can,t aford one now. my buddy and i put motor back on boat this morning.we lifted leg up and down very hard up and down .with no movement in transom what so ever .is it possible this person done something right.again guys ,thank you..there is alot to digest here.

 

[oops!]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

.is it possible this person done something right.again guys ,thank you..there is alot to digest here.

no...it is not possible.

the transom might be solid. but that does not mean its right. (its hard to get a soft transom after a replacement.

the right way to do the repair was to replace the i/o or do a merc conversion. but the owner didn't want to spend the money....so for a grand he bought a used OB. then....he found out the shaft was too short...so he screwed up again....and cut the transom down again to accommodate the short shaft.

after the repairs, the PO took his craft out on the water and decided that the boat would not work with the current configuration.....(too dangerous) so he put the boat up for sale.

that is what happened......we have seen it before.....and we will see it again.
the cheapest way to fix an old stringer drive omc....is to hang an OB off the back. but the conversion rarely works.

Ringo....a different hull is the easiest way to go.

1, IF you get a new hull......you will still have a short shaft motor.....and (if i remember correctly) you are boating the great lakes....this is not a good idea.

you could get a new hull and do a shaft conversion on your current motor.......this is not that hard....and an old long shaft of that year will be easy to come by.

2. you could fix what you have now.......this is a transom job....and a shaft conversion.

3. you could do a jack plate and board up the splash well.

4. you could sell the motor and trailer....and part out the boat. and get what you want.

5. you could try and return the boat to the P,O ...by telling him the modifications on the boat that he did are un safe, and the boat is dangerous.

as far as i can tell........those are your options.

what ever you choose......we are standing by to help as best we can.

 

[ringo111]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

if i went with a jack plate and glassed in back ,how would the trim and tilt work .what would be a good jack plate to get.i would have to get it on ebay.thanks again

 

[Home Cookin']

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

not worth it. Jack plate would cost more than the hull is worth.

Remember, the yahoo you bought it from filled in the transom already, so you are attaching an expensive jack plate, a motor of some value, your labor and materials, and your life on his work!

 

[oops!]

Re: Boatt

Re: Boatt

you could have a welder make you a jack plate... wont be that expensive....

but then if you ever sold the boat.....you are really selling a P.O.S. and you wont get any more money than the motor and trailer is worth

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Boat

Re: Boat

more options were listed earlier but you only have three practical options.... replace the transom and come up with a long shaft engine either by changing the one you have or trading it off for another and deal with the likely less than ideal performance OR junk that hull and get another OR sell the motor, sell the trailer, part out and junk the hull, and buy another whole rig but talk to us before buying it..... sorry but that is just how it is


I asked you if you do any traveling or if you have any marinas in the area you can talk to about sourcing a hull.... As I said before I DID find a 20' wellcraft center console that would have worked very well with your engine (might still need to be longer) and it was free.... heck you could have likely had it shipped to you for what a custom jackplate would cost PLUS the jack plate won't solve the problem......

Again, I'm really sorry. I know this must be terribly frustrating for you and I really do understand.... I recently lost over $5000 trying to start a business.... I got ripped off. I've poured more money into failed projects in the past than I care to count. LOTS of us have been there and done that. That's how we know.... UGH!

Keep your chin up..... If you really can't locate a hull then get your grinder and get into it..... Knock it out and go fishing... The drydock gang will walk you right through it.