Project: River / Flats boat.

[jerryjerry05]

Joe, I'm not sure about the transom??
​Maybe the experts can look into their magic ball ??

Oh wait!! I'll go check it again!!

Yup still good!

Makes me think twice about continuing this post

 

[ondarvr]

You seem to think think that saying there could be issues you don't see at the moment is an attack on you, it's not, it's from 15+ years on this forum reading thread after thread that starts out just like this one, then after closer examination they find there's more rot than they thought.....and this is especially true with Bayliners.

If you don't find more problems that's great, if you do it's not a big deal, just fix them.

 

[jerryjerry05]

I put the post out so people could see what i'm doing and to watch the progress of the rebuild.
Not once did I ask for an opinion or advice on what to do with the boat.
Been working on boats since 1985 and it includes glass work and engine work even trailer repairs.
And I know how to do a hull survey.
I've owned 5 different Bayliners and know how they were put together. a 32 a 28 2 -21's and now a 14.
Worked at a Bayliner dealership for 8 years.

IF someone wants to follow the thread great.
I just don't need the crappy comments.

I've been posting on here since 2008 and thought the forum was a place for help??
Guess not.Or it's turned into a who can be the biggest jerk and who can add the nastiest comments?

I'm done with this crap.

 

[jbcurt00]

Ondrvr is correct

Countless examples of 'checked/tested' good to go transoms that werent. Very few boats found in the condition you found this Bayliner (as evidenced by just a couple pix) had good transom. Not just Bayliners either. In fact, off hand, I cant think of 1 prohect topic that did.

Perhaps you're lucky enough to have the 1 in a few hundred thousand, good transom. If so, as Ondrvr said: GREAT.

Honestly, regarding a rotten transom, I'd rather I was wrong, and it is good, instead of you were thinking it was good and it isnt. If you checked it, and are positive its good, then proceed as you see fit.

No one here can put there hands on it or see everything you do when you look at it or inspect its parts and pieces. All we have to go on is what you post and a few pix. And as is the case very often, the posts and pix suggest otherwise.

By all means, dont take the posts as attacks on you, it isnt intended that way. Neither was Joe's last post. He's one of the few members I've met in person and I'm confident he didnt ask it maliciously.

More of a 2 guys hanging out in a garage having a beer or 3 giving each other a jab or 2. Heckuva a nice fella actually, as are all the members I've had the pleasure of meeting.

I do gotta ask though:

How'd you check the transom?

Have a great up comming week.

 

[kcassells]

Go getum Jerry!!! Looking forward to your progress.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Even the Nods don't read the entire posts??

I checked the transom with an ice pick and a hammer.
I found NO rot in the transom.
3 2" spots of rot in the stringers where the old floor meets the stringer.
Easy repair.

 

[jbcurt00]

Until just now ^^^ you hadnt posted the icepick and hammer testing, only that you had tested it, by means unknown.

So yes, I did read the posts in this topic, multiple times.

And most of the topics I mentioned that had good to go transoms that werent, also were posted as tested good. So simply stating it tested good isnt confirmation that it is good.

Glad to gear you're so confident it is. Great.

As before, I'd much prefer I was wrong then you are.

Please understand I am not arguing w you, simply asking queations for clarity.

Good luck w your project.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Go getum Jerry!!! Looking forward to your progress.

Thanks.
I looked at your build/rebuild.
Lot's of good work there.

 

[StarTed]

jerryjerry05,,

After looking over your original post and my post I'd like to apologize for the unwanted and poor taste comment. It has no place in this build and I'd remove it if I could.but it seems that the window of opportunity has closed. This project should become one that others can refer to in the future for information about making a good and proper fishing boat from an older Bayliner.

Once again, my sincerest apologies. Now I'll take my egg and crow and try to swallow them.

 

[kcassells]

Thanks Jerry,
My build is a great read to fall asleep to.:lol: Kinda been moving like a snail stuck in salt. Getting there. Kinda like my bucket list thingy.
Looks like your build is doing just fine so like I says..."Go getum Jerry!" Smack up lots of questions, pics..We all learn off each others experiences.
Let the show begin.

 

[redneck joe]

jerryjerry05,,

Now I'll take my egg and crow and try to swallow them.

I've got a good recipe for that. Literally and figuratively.



jerry, i've had a 19, and 21, and a 34 Bay. Loved them all for different reasons, well except for the L-Drive. The 21 Sea Ray I had was more rotted than any of the Bays. Carry on and git er done

 

[jerryjerry05]

The plan is: cut out the rest of the cross pieces and where it meets the stringers.
​Gonna leave the flotation in the bow.
​It's just gonna get covered anyway.(I think)(plans change daily)
Just get rid of any rotten wood.
IF?? it stops raining and I can get it to dry some.

The foam in the floor was pretty well water logged.
Probably 40-50# of water, maybe more, maybe less??

The new wood will be treated lumber of some sort?
Of course stainless hardware.

The cleats: the chrome started pealing off and cutting anyone who came close(me and my helper Tommy).
Steering wheel is rotted but the cable is supposed to be new???
My son-in-law said it was new when he stopped using the boat.
Shift cables were new too.

Being as I specialize in Force repairs and rebuilds,
I have a trim @ tilt unit just about ready to go on it.

There is no built in tank on the 14.
They use 6gal. carry on tanks.
Since the back should be pretty much covered I was thinking of putting in a 12gal.permanent tank???

And a fish box.

That being said the back needs to be pretty stout!!
I'm 225# and it'll need to be stout.

More when the brain comes up with it.

 

[jerryjerry05]

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These spots need cut out and filled.
​The #2 pic will need a lot of trimming and bad wood removed.
​There are no drains from the stringers at the rear and sides.
There will be.

 

[jerryjerry05]

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More pics of work to be done.

 

[redneck joe]

for sure put in a 12 fuel tank

 

[jerryjerry05]

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Found this at a yard sale.
It already has the tri/tilt so I think it should fit right on.

 

[kcassells]

Nice grab there.
"The new wood will be treated lumber of some sort?" Well stick with ACX, BCX ply and resin it out before you install it. Treated lumber, if you are referring to deck wood is no good. Glass does not adhere to it. It would have had to been dried out to dry in a kiln. Too risky.
But you probably already knew that.:joyous:

 

[jerryjerry05]

Did not know that glass wouldn't stick to PT??
​I had been looking at different places for "marine grade" or what would work ??

The ACX BCX isn't easily had here.
The cost , too much.
This area isn't know for boat building and the box stores don't carry something like that here.

And the cost would be a LOT more than I want to pay.

A 3/4 exterior with a few coats of resin should do the trick??
The back will have hatches that open for access so the bracing will be heavy duty.
It will be glassed.

The back hatches and floor will be covered in carpet.

 

[redneck joe]

fish boat and carpet? I'd do differently.

 

[ondarvr]

There is PT plywood that's KD made for the marine industry, it can be a little hard to find though, pontoon boat places typically sell it. Normal PT ply can be used, but it needs to be dried out an kept flat, and it's normally not a great grade of plywood.

Resin coating with just polyester resin doesn't work well, the resin is brittle and weak, so it frequently cracks and/or peels off.

3/4" may be too thick and heavy, in a small boat even a small amount of weight makes a big difference. 1/2" is normally strong enough for most applications.