Welcome
All boats have some sort raw water pump that moves water either thru the motor or thru the heat exchanger. Most likely yours has a belt or crankshaft driven water pump.
In other forums I'm finding the Sherwood G7B pump used...
You have a Weber AFB (also Carter AFB) model 9777s, same as Edelbrock 1410
Rebuild kit numbers are 809064 old and 8M0120193 new. Either number will bring up the kit
From what I've read your good
I wouldn't worry about the PS cooler, it's high on the rear of the motor and will drain automatically. A concern would be IF you have a Bravo outdrive, and if so drain the pump.
You said Carb and 5 plugs (2 block, 2 exhaust) so is the other on the raw water pump?
Don't know which it is so looking at the 10A 2 bank manual, it could be the charger or the Battery. Swap the leads between the Bats and see if it starts flashing on the other one
Manual
As mentioned before, run until the problem starts or at least long enough to be able to start and create a vacuum (if this is the issue).
Stop boat, get your ear close to gas cap and open it, do you hear air being sucked in?
That's about it
Don't know which code number, but you did say sensor reads 198.
If a sensor thinks the something is overheating, it will limit rpm to try and save the motor. This can be a brand new but defective sensor. Can be a bad connection to the sensor, in correct voltage applied to sensors. The scanner...
Injectors are supplied on one side with 12V, the ECM applies a ground to the other side to turn then on/off
With key on, motor off there should be 12V on both sides of the injectors because the ECM is not applying a ground
Saying it will start on starting fluid but not off the gas, then...
Thanks, it's a 3.0 GXI-J MPI
You need a scanner to see what codes are showing up. The only way to know is with a scanner
Rinda makes the scanner and you will need either the Diacom software which uses your laptop, or Techmate Pro is a hand held. The Diacom is more versatile and cost more but...
Thanks
You have the regular Saginaw Power steering pump which is good. You can get the entire pump with reservoir, or just the pump.
Entire pump Assy
Just the pump
The above links are just for reference and may not be yours. You need to look at yours and make sure the fittings show the same...
Normally the gauge is not that far off, its either the gauge or sender. Connect a ohm meter to the sender and place in pan of water on the stove. Put another thermometer on the pan and heat up the water. Should be close to 240 ohm cold and 33 ohms hot
The the PS pump is what's making the noise...
Oh should have mentioned, offshore has a 10 post before pics. So in your thread, just post something like post 2, post 3, etc until your count gets to 10
