GOOD NEWS. . . . The PICTURE UPLOAD FUNCTION IS WORKING !!! The tech folks at the parent company have been able to remedy the issue. You can upload pictures once again. Thank you for your patience.
What's fused shut? Do you mean you can't get the lower unit off? Don't have all the bolts out, do you? Including the big one at the rear that you can't see without removing the rear cover off the midsection.
1. Throttle must be backed off before you can shift.
2. If motor is not running, the gears simply might not be aligned. Twirl the prop. does it shift now?
Yep, it gives everybody a problem on the first one they get into. The secret is the equalizer spring must be assembled up onto the shoulder of the spindle before the spindle is inserted into the rope pulley. If it jumps off, start over.
First, find out why it's running on one cylinder. Start with a compression check. It would be a waste to spend all that time and money on an engine with a blown piston.
I don't think leaving the key on will cause that, IF it is only used for starting, as you said.
Are you fishing at night? Lights?
Easy to check for drainage with an ammeter. Many multimeters have an up to 10 Amps DC scale.
Lots will argue, but I say trailer with it down unless there is danger of it hitting the road. If the transom can't stand it, how about the stress of when 25 horses are shoving on it?
No tilt/trailering lock on that motor. Lots of people just used a broom handle in the hinge once tilted up. Or do it the decent way and buy a transom saver. Probably for sale here.
Depends if it is a factory long shaft, or converted in the field. Factory LS will have a 5" longer shift rod, converted will have a longer shift rod connector. Longer water tubes can simply be cut off 5" shorter.
Yes a short drive shaft is required for sure.
