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  1. F

    Changed Thermostat and Impeller, but...

    It must be working if you ran it for 15 minutes without burning it up. There is no "pee" holes on that motor. Just the exhaust relief holes in the back that water should mist out. I suggest you get it out of that barrel and onto a boat on the lake where it was designed to run, and see if it...
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    1962' 50529A Starflite IV Magneto Ignition Weak Spark

    Oh. I couldn't figure out what the funky sound was. You are cranking it with the recoil starter. Duh. Anyway, if I were doing it. I'd remove and go through the entire thing. Could have a cracked coil and/or arcing through the side to the case. Or a pin-holed distributor rotor arcing...
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    1971 Johnson 25hp convert to electric start?

    Simple enough, once you find the parts. It should already have a geared flywheel. The $$ snag comes in the starter and bracket. You will also need a solenoid and associated wiring and cables. Worth it?? Depends on your wants and needs. How much are you willing to spend on a 50 year old motor?
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    Newbie here

    www.aomci.org
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    Johnson 1961 - 10hp - QD22 - Won’t Shift into Gear

    That is the wrong drive pin. Should be stainless steel (part number 307949). But brass is ok if you like to change shear pins on the water.
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    Johnson 1961 - 10hp - QD22 - Won’t Shift into Gear

    If not the drive pin, remove the oval plate from the side of the midsection and look in there to see if the shift rod id moving up and down. And see if both bolts are in the brass connector.
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    Final Straw.

    I theorize that by pumping the throttle you are applying back-and-forth pressure on the timer base, hoping to unstick it to go to full advance.
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    Final Straw.

    You need the model-specific service manual to do that. But for now, don't get all hung up on that because unless it is really screwed up badly, that is not the problem.
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    Final Straw.

    That's the general idea. Of course there is a little bit more to it than that. The timing and carbs have to be finely synchronized----what we call "Link & Sync" But that doesn't change unless somebody has messed with it. Sticky timer bases are somewhat common and often overlooked.
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    Final Straw.

    Sounds like a classic case of carburetors opening before full timing advance. When that happens it will surely stumble and often conk out. Watch the carb throttles as you advance the throttle (motor not running is ok for this check). The carbs should open just a little bit before the timing...
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    Water Intake Tube Fell Out-- 1977 Evinrude 25

    Book sez collar goes up. Yes, some oil, grease, soap or whatever will make it slide together easier. I wouldn't use sealer.
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    Fuel pump lines

    The fuel pump operates by pulses from the crankcase. The third hose feeds those pulses to the pump on the '72. But the '74 gets it's pulses direct through a drilling and gasket.
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    Can anyone tell me what year this motor is?

    Yeah, it's been repainted. Is the serial number disk still on top of the cylinder block, or has it been removed too?
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    1961 10hp Johnson QD-22 Throttle Problem

    Your video shows it is going to the second stop in neutral. It should only go to the first stop in neutral, second stop in reverse, and third stop in forward. We are back to where we were, too much wear somewhere in that interlock bar
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    1961 10hp Johnson QD-22 Throttle Problem

    So, I found the parts book, and it appears that model had neither a roller nor a pivot bushing. But don't give up yet. The problem can still be in those areas, especially excessive wear at the pivot pin or the hole it goes through, or the notches in the interlock bar. That motor has been run...
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    1961 10hp Johnson QD-22 Throttle Problem

    OK, there are two possibilities there, which I cannot see, but you can look for yourself. 1. Obviously, the vertical interlock bar is supposed to limit the armature plate rotation, which it is not doing. First place to look is where somebody suggested. Is there a roller in the shifter pin...
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    1961 10hp Johnson QD-22 Throttle Problem

    Post a picture of the gearshift side of the powerhead (with the throttle in the over-travel condition). Actually, you probably will see the problem even before you take the picture.
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    Milky fluid on plugs and running out of carb when shut down.

    My first thought was condensation from icy cold and humid air. Like about to snow. But you blew that theory by stating the humidity is low.
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    Would Like Accurate Diagrams For My 30 Horse Johnson

    The hose between the intake manifold and bypass cover is correct. It routes excess crankcase drainage to the upper cylinder for burning.
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