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  1. S

    Kill switch question

    The key should kill the motor when turned off.
  2. S

    Evinrude 60 HP (3 Cylinder) Won't Suck Fuel

    Send pictures of the motor so we can verify the vro has not been removed or caped. Bunch of shots from the port side. If there is a working vro then you shouldn't be mixing your gas. This is assuming I'm reading you right.
  3. S

    1978 Johnson 150 hp tach wire

    Forgot the picture.
  4. S

    1978 Johnson 150 hp tach wire

    This rubber plug, should be easy....even at 72
  5. S

    1978 Johnson 150 hp tach wire

    That plugs in to the spot we are talking about and those go back to the motor. Should be blue, green and red
  6. S

    Engine tune-up spray

    I use a stainless wire brush, then spay them with carb cleaner, blow them out with compressed air and then I heat them up with a propane torch just near the bottom to get any moisture that's left. They look brand new to me. Once the electrode is getting warn away, I toss them.
  7. S

    1978 Johnson 150 hp tach wire

    Key switch, friction screw, rubber cap over rubber 3 wire plug. Pull on round black rubber cap revealing what's underneath.
  8. S

    Identify Motor

    Carb tab located on the bowl of the carburator unless someone took it off.
  9. S

    CDI Electronics and AGM Battery Compatibility

    I have no idea but it's below their parameters.
  10. S

    1978 Johnson 150 hp tach wire

    There should be a round runner cap below the key switch. If you pull on it you will see another rubber fitting with 3 wires connection. That's your tach tie in.
  11. S

    Identify Motor

    Yes, the prop is a dead give-a-way of the lower HP.
  12. S

    Evinrude 60 HP (3 Cylinder) Won't Suck Fuel

    Well you should post the model number then we know what motor we are dealing with. Have you done any checking of the mechanics of the motor like compression check? Just to cover the dumb stuff, primer bulb is pointed the right way, correct? Are you buying good OMC/brp parts?
  13. S

    Identify Motor

    Well their close if not right. I have a 1978 35 HP and that's all close. The carb throats are a lot smaller on the 25 so that might help but unnecessary really. The I'd tag on the carb could probably confirm horsepower. You can match it up with a parts company. Everything else tells me it's of...
  14. S

    Engine tune-up spray

    No, can't hurt. All the products I used to use, and yes I have a bunch of crap sitting on my shelf, usually did a good job. Carbon cleaner, fogging oil, electrical contact wax....yada yada yada. All works but as I age I use it more now when I need to not just for the hell of it. Seafoam in...
  15. S

    CDI Electronics and AGM Battery Compatibility

    I used to use my "hook out" needle nose plyers while fishing....usually cussing because my motor wouldn't start. I was much younger then!
  16. S

    Johnson 6hp not pissing

    Was is salt water use or fresh?
  17. S

    CDI Electronics and AGM Battery Compatibility

    Yeah.....I'm a "no wing nuts" guy. Why risk it?
  18. S

    CDI Electronics and AGM Battery Compatibility

    Don't believe your motor is undervolting at slow RPMs? Get your meter out and test
  19. S

    CDI Electronics and AGM Battery Compatibility

    Well ...and I'm taking an educated guess here, because at low speed your not getting 14.1 volts.
  20. S

    2001 70HP Johnson 2 Stroke.

    Temp sensor is unavailable, at least new that is. This problem sure happens a lot with what seems to be no resolution. Pulse limiter and thermo/Poppet were discussed. Have you checked those? What years had the diode issue in the harness?
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