It’s the lower sketch and it goes under the rear motor mount . You can see the ear of the mount on the transom plate there. The flywheel cover mount sits on top of it
Yeah the biggest engine they make with an alpha is the 350 mag mpi- 300 hp. i Think all the 6.2 s are 325 or 340hp .
prob closest way to get there is take. 350 mag alpha and reflash it for a 6.2 fuel curve
I think the work around it using a NC interrupter to cut off the signal from dist to...
Yes exactly should move freely and easily. Would also check they routed it correctly around the wye pipe . This is outlined in the gen 2 manual #14. Speaking from Experience if routedthe wrong way it puts a tight bend in it
As mentioned above you should be able to take two fingers and move the shift cable in and out of gear. When I did my bellows 2-3 years ago I also replace the bushings on the swiveling shift shaft in the bellhousing. the upper one was quite seated and put some drag on the shift lever that the...
There is no alpha ecu for a 6.2 mpi, as mentioned in the screen shot you have to do a workaround to get a bravo ecu to work with an alpha drive.
if it’s wired like that then lit would make sense the lower shift cable is dragging and triggering the switch.
was that screenshot off the marine...
You might also compare cost of extended warranties, this is probably insight into how much the manufacture knows they will cost over X years. I think Muc had pointed this out on a thread a couple years back.
Also the older alphas had a grease nipple there as well. gen 2 and up have none of the grease points anymore. Machine shop or replace the ring are the two options
the cones are drawn together when running so not running that wont happen and lock tight. The same things happen when they get worn and the groves/surface finish on the clutch cones gets worn they either take a while to lock in gear or they slip .
No disrespect taken, understood about Merc parts availability. Only issue is you can leak test it now and not leak doesn't mean it wont later and possibly take out your engine. really just depends on how long you want to keep it. Typical salt water change out is 5-7 years.
If you do need one I...
acetone is pretty universally used and accepted here, it wicks in cracks much more so than water soul you would see it.
Unless the manifold is hot I could see it hiding cracks using compressed air. Also with air you need to block off the riser connection.
One other items to look at are the...
the parts breakdown for a 228 in the serial year/ number range listed for his engine shows a preload pin - 14 & 15 in breakdown
https://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercruiser-sterndrive-parts/228-19781892/4898730-thru-6225576/gear-housing-assembly-complete
i did 1400 sf of 3/4" solid x5" wide. The 5" wide has hard to fit tight like less wide flooring i have done in the past, hard enough that it was 50/50 chance of bending the nails when top nailing the last couple rows.... but it doesn't dent
The crab caps seem to be more prone to issues and cross firing Causing a miss. I change mine every 5 years or so in fresh water as the terminals get crusty. Still runs fine but just try to stay ahead of it.
I keep a spare in a freezer bag on the Boat
Easiest plug and play is to find a used module and try it. Delco est is also a very good / oem quality system but you will have to do some minor rewiring.
have you verified there is no play in the distributor shaft and rotor? And when you say timing is even it is no longer jumping around ...
