If the muffler went into the intake it will do no harm, its a piece of foam and will just burn up and go out the exhaust.
With a backfire, need to check timing
Pesky little varmints. Watched it for about and hour, just set there looking around. Got down a couple times but only to go closer to the house (out of sight), then would come back to the same spot. Going to get a different vantage spot
This is how the trim system works.
There are small Blue/White and Green/White which come from the trim switches that energize the relays.
There are larger Blue/White and Green/White which come from the main post on the relays to the motor
Trim switches
Red is main power which goes to the...
Ohm out the 10 pin connector. The pic below uses DDIS ignition but otherwise should be the same. The helm wiring is a bit different also but the wire colors are the same
Using the connector from the old DDIS unit, attach the Red to the purple, and White to the White/Green.
Then disconnect the Black wire from the **** interrupter switch and attach a new wire to it going to Purple
I'm at a loss because of having trouble following.
I would say if the TBV (same but better for TB-IV) does not show what the problem is, then need someone smarter then me, which isn't hard to find
Its not the coil
The purple wire coming from the choke is a resistance wire and feeds the coil when the key is ON (engine running).
The yellow/purple should come from the outside terminal on the starter solenoid. This wire supplies a full 12V to the coil when starting
Did you replace the...
Just realized this is a VP, so instead of a slave solenoid, you have an assist relay. Probably easiest way is to remove the relay and jump across pins 30 and 87
Check the slave solenoid. Cross the top 2 contacts and if it cranks over when before it didn't then its either wiring or key issue, or most likely the slave is dying 89-96054T
The 90 amp is on the starter post, and looks like the one on the trim pump. This isn't you motor, just where the fuse is
Follow the red wire from the trim pump to the starter and see if there is 12V at that end. It might go the the square block on the starter post (90 amp fuse)
They look correct, and from the Sierra catalog it also confirms the part number 18-8803 (also agree the -02 appears to be revision). Also matches your serial number range
Put the arrow on the wrong line, its the one below it :facepalm: I also checked the boot types in the first pages of the...
It can be the 110amp fuse, 90amp fuse on the starter or the 20 amp inline fuse. Suggest checking the 20 fuse first by following the smaller red wire to the inline fuse. The 110 amp fuse is the square block that connects to the starter
Making a stab at a possibility, just guessing/spit ball
Some have different size bolts. The ones which are used on the flywheel housing that hold spark plug wire holder can be a bit longer on the block size due to the support. Others that are not used for these but still used to hold ground...
With the motor only starting and not running I don't see it being the fuel pump. Once a carb is full of fuel it should run for a few minutes just idling. Since it starts and immediately dies, this sounds like an electrical problem. The ALT is not the current issue unless its shorted...
No, the ECM controls IAC and the ECM gets info from the TPS as to where the throttle plate. All must have good connections. Connections from ECM to IAC along with grounds and 12V power
