1962 Seabreeze Contessa 1900

[COURT JESTER]

I don't have many pictures of me laminating. I never worked with epoxy resin but I worked with polyester resin for many years. So I laid half the boat up with 17 oz and that bucket is there to clean the amine blush left behind after it cured. I have now have 3 layers of 17oz on the whole hull bottom. I originally was going to put 2 layers of 17oz but I want this boat light and strong. I never want to do this to this boat again. My intention is to keep it for a very long time. That's why I switched to epoxy and want to make an epoxy boat. One good benefit is it doesn't have a strong odor. The other picture is of the hole I patched with 2 layers of 17oz before covering with the 3 layers of 17oz.

 

[COURT JESTER]

This a picture of my 1957 Johnson Seahorse 18hp I bought for 175 dollars. It came with another lower unit since the orginal was cracked. I bought the carb rebuild kit, new spark plugs, new coils, points and condenser. All those parts I just listed previously were still available and all cost less than 100 bucks in all. I plan on using this as my kicker motor.

 

[COURT JESTER]

One more for today. This is my splashwell getting cut out so I can get to the transom. It only had I piece of 3/4 plywood with fiberglass tabs around the inside perimeter. It looked all original but was rotted still holding that 100 hp outboard. I'm surprised it didn't fall right off.

 

[mickyryan]

its amazing sometimes when you do a transom and see its all paper wood or rotted out and yet the p o has been running it for 5 yrs every weekend like that , lol i have done a couple that i just shuddered at the thought that i was told it was ready to roll and had even test driven them with friends... i have come to conclusion any boat 3 yrs or older left outside might have stringer /transom issues.

 

[COURT JESTER]

Yup and its held to together. This my first boat by the way and first transom rebuild. This is me after more grinding was done to remove the wood skin when that I removed it. The transom wood came out in little pieces. Don't worry I ground every nook and cranny. So I can get the epoxy to have a good bond to the original layer of glass.

 

[COURT JESTER]

As I said before the hull was on the thin side so before I started to replace the transom wood I put 4 layers of 17oz on the transom wall. I had already ground it down and wiped with acetone and precut the fiberglass a bit oversized. These pictures are of my first layer but 3 more followed.

 

[COURT JESTER]

Here's another boat like mine that I have seen that is still around I think.

 

[COURT JESTER]

Here I am cutting out a rough template for the transom. I will be using 2 pieces of 3/4" marine grade plywood. I will have about a 2 inch gap around the perimeter.

 

[COURT JESTER]

Here is the transom wood, which 2 pieces of 3/4 marine grade plywood epoxied together and epoxy coated. It was trimmed and fitted before hand to make sure it was spaced evenly. It was also sanded and radius put on it to make it easier to laminate over. I put 2 layers of epoxy resin to seal the transom wood.

 

[COURT JESTER]

This is the transom being bedded to the hull. I built clamps out of 2x4s. I bonded the wood to the transom with milled fibers and epoxy resin. I trawled the putty with a squeegee with 1 inch notches so I can spread it and hopefully create a good bond like used when you tile floors. The holes to mount the motor was oversized so they can be filled with milled fibers and epoxy putty. Then drilled to there proper size.

 

[chevymaher]

Getting with it are you. Doing nice work in my humble novice opinion.

 

[COURT JESTER]

I am trying to get done with but I am hoping to never have to mess with this boat to this extent ever again. I need to take more pictures

 

[COURT JESTER]

I was originally planning on having it done last year but It has taken a lot longer than expected which is fine since I'm in no immediate rush. I do have a goal of splashing it in the water by September or October. We shall see if it does come true. I am currently working on the stringers and plan on having it done sometime this month. When I'm done I will post even more pictures til then toodles.

 

[COURT JESTER]

Here are some shots of my transom glassed in with 3 layers of 17oz and epoxy. I put a couple of layers of 17oz before I bedded the marine grade plywood in.The majority of the transom is glassed in except the top edge. Enjoy.

 

[COURT JESTER]

After I finish the stringers and put a new deck. I will glass 2 layers of 17oz on the sides of the hull. I already started some of it when glossing the transom in here are some shots.

 

[COURT JESTER]

This is currently where I'm at with my boat. I'm still here I have just been busy with other projects. I am hoping to get back on it soon.

 

[COURT JESTER]

I am using cheap styrofoam for the stringers. I don't plan on getting any strength from the foam just the form. I plan on covering with at least 3-4 layers of 17 oz biaxial with epoxy. I am not finish with the stringer . I will be adding more horizontal bracing. When I am close I will be taking more pictures to show.

 

[COURT JESTER]

Here is some of the foam I used it came in a 4x8 sheet from home depot with aluminum on one side and plastic on the other. I originally started with wood and just didn't want a lot of wood nor weight of it in my boat and settled with foam.

 

[COURT JESTER]

This is the continuation of my foam stringer right before I covered it with 17 oz fiberglass with epoxy. What I like about the foam was the ability to shape it easily and radius the corners to make easier to laminate.

 

[COURT JESTER]

This is right before I tabbed the stringer in and an after shot. I cut the 17oz to fit before wetting it out. I glassed it in certain spots then let it cured. I then wiped the amine blush before I started sanding with 40 grit. To put the rest of the first coat.And second coat.