93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

[Woodonglass]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

Grind it all down to fresh glass on the outer skin. Try to keep from gouging it but if you do... not a big deal. Check it for flatness and any areas that are considerably low, mix up some mayonaise consistency PB and use a large plastic trowel to fill them in and smooth them out to level. I agree with RR that unless there's an issue with the top cap fitting back on properly, I would fab the new transom to be a full width transom and tab it to the hull both on the bottom and the sides, making sure to fillet all the edges with PB. I like the idea of drilling several 1/2" hole in the transom to allow air to escape during clamping and it also allows the PB to flow into the holes and thus create a mechanical bond to the hull as well. Using a 1/4" to 3/8" Notched trowel to apply the PB to the skin and the transom, will ensure that the PB fills any & all voids and you will have a voidless solid transom installation.

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

I like the sound of a full width transom myself! Will definitely do it....would I need to make it the full thickness all the way across? Or just a 3/4 ply all the way across and step in other ply......hmmm....just thought of a few things. Let me make a short video and show it.

 

[bleedblue94]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

I'm doing a 1991 2050 full restore. Had the same debate about the transom and rebuilt it all differently but within the concept of bayliner. You may want to check the thread. It may answer some questions.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=531898

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

ok...I think I have a final plan on building the transom. Let me know what you guys think.

 

[rickryder]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

I would go with 2- 3/4" full runs to the gunwales (sides of hull) and the center piece inside your center stringers..... I don't know why they put that bondo hair junk in there.....as you can see it just pulls off.... I think if you use 1/2" on the final piece and a few layers of 1708 you will gain the 1/4" your looking for.....would be real bad if it was too thick and the cap won't go on.... It's easier to add some glass and resin than remove it

 

[riptorn]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

I agree with rickryder. Last thing you want is stress marks on the outside corners. You did say you were replacing with a heavier outboard.
I would replace the stringers and the ribs the same as Bayliner does. The hull needs support in heavy water waves.
You also may want to check out the balance of your boat during the rebuild. If the nose sits to high in the water you may have a problem plaining out. I had a 16ft Cutter that was plated for a 50hp and it had a 65hp and it was terrible in the water. It was a lesson for me learned.
Just something you might keep an eye on.

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

Ok...got a lot of grinding done on transom and rear area. I will be putting my Mariner 150 back on here, and it is what I had on it for all of last season. I think even after installing a full width transom it will still be lighter than it was. However I understand what you mean about balancing....will look in to that further. I am also replacing the 1/2 in ch forward stringers with 3/4 and will be putting a 3/4 deck in place of the original 1/2. Also I plan to put a wake tower so that will also add some weight towards the front. Do I need to put some glass on hull where I took so much off....or just make the full width transom and PB in? I am leaning towards just making and installing transom.

 

[rickryder]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

I would put a few layers of glass down, then glass the transom PB it and clamp it together.... I think a layer or 2 of csm and 1 1708 would make it real strong...

Tape some plastic sheet over that hole on the outside and csm a few patches while your doing the hull/skin inside.

Real nice job on cleaning that up

 

[riptorn]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

Ok...got a lot of grinding done on transom and rear area. I will be putting my Mariner 150 back on here, and it is what I had on it for all of last season. I think even after installing a full width transom it will still be lighter than it was. However I understand what you mean about balancing....will look in to that further. I am also replacing the 1/2 in ch forward stringers with 3/4 and will be putting a 3/4 deck in place of the original 1/2. Also I plan to put a wake tower so that will also add some weight towards the front. Do I need to put some glass on hull where I took so much off....or just make the full width transom and PB in? I am leaning towards just making and installing transom.

Agree again,rickryder, but I would patch the hole with hull color gelcoat (kab) before you go with the glass. Just tape the outside of the hole with good quality scotch tape and remove after it sets.
Good idea with replacing the 1/2 in ch forward stringers with 3/4.
Ya you need to build up transom and hull for what you took off only.
Are you getting the itchy s yet? LOL

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

lol...@riptorn....Well I am powdering down with baby powder before suiting up! OK, that sounded completely unmanly! Hang on while I go pee in the yard. lol Just found out my fiberglass supplies will not be here today as was told on Monday....will be Tuesday!!! Dang! oh well there is plenty of grinding and making a template for the transom....may even go ahead and build the transom. Also is the 24 grit sanding disks leave it to rough for glassing? It just seems like so many other pics I have seen of boat after grinding look more shiny than mine. Guess you can tell I second guess everything. Just want to make sure I am doing it correct. Thanks for all the support.

Have I mentioned there is A LOT of grinding????

 

[fngboater]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

well i have been using the 24 grit and it looks nice and shiney when it gets wet. by the way those things will hurt ya. Ive got some good ol slits on my leg and fingers. wonder if i should csm those

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

was just looking and doing some planning for tomorrow and noticed some discolored spots on the inside of the hull where the transom was....looks like stress marks.

 

[riptorn]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

was just looking and doing some planning for tomorrow and noticed some discolored spots on the inside of the hull where the transom was....looks like stress marks

Wo, I think so. Might want a light coat of glass to prep for the big job and to make sure of a nice straight line across. You can brush the glass into the low spots. That way you can get the hang of it before you start the major job.

 

[rickryder]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

Just lay up some glass on the inside to thicken the skin of the hull you'll be fine

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

Well I had a geat day! I got a lot of grinding done, and got the template for the transom cut. I am planning on filling in as suggested the two low spots with 1.5 csm grinding smooth and flat....then covering the whole width with two layers of csm. Should I put csm 1708 csm or csm, csm, 1708?

 

[rickryder]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

Csm,1708, csm... I would layup the hull skin,then bond your 2 pieces of 3/4 ply together, PB em and clamp them to the skin and let them cure.... Then I would see what thikness you have before laying your last transom piece... you may need the 3/4" or might be 5/8"
Remember your going to be adding layers of csm and 1708 over everything and you want your cap to line up.

When you lay up your skin you can measure that thickness to give you an idea what 3 layers of glass and resin works out to be to help in the final decision of the smaller transom wood thickness

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

Well wouldnt you know I would get a sinus infection on my last day off...oh well I did get transom pieces trimmed and glued together this evening. LOL...I used a half a large tube of PL trowed it all on and clapped it all down. I feel really good about my clapping so now just let it cure. My fiberglass supplies should be here tomorrow and I hope to get the back hull covered with some glass to get ready to install transom THIS WEEKEND! I am starting to see the light..well it is a little tiny light, but still a light.

 

[74bayliner]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

Good Job sir! welcome to iboats
You were asking questions a while back. I found a great place that has better pricing than USComposites.
And the closest facility to your area would be in rock hill, SC so if you wanted to take the 2 hour trip one saturday to save on shipping and hazmat costs. i think that would be the best route.. maybe.
As far as poly resin they gave me a price close to 97 bucks a pail(5gal) and CSM for 1 roll (100lb roll) 153 bucks... unfortunately thier smallest order of Cabosil is a 10lb bag thats like one of those big bags of wheat if you have ever seen them. Unfortunately thier prices arent listed on the website but they would gladly tell you over the phone. You should give them a call and check out thier prices.

ROCK HILL, SOUTH CAROLINA
467 Lakeshore Pkwy.
Rock Hill, SC 29730-4205
800-327-9058
Good luck i look forward to seeing you get finished )

 

[74bayliner]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

and thier bag of cabosil was about 40 bucks

 

[93bayliner1800]

Re: 93 Bayliner 1800 Capri Outboard Restoration Project

ok guys....I am worried sick I have messed up this fiberglass I have laid on the back of the hull. Does 1708 get completely transparent? It may be fine, but just wanted to show it and see what you think.