Mercruiser 140 3.0 Makeover

[Goldie627]

The por15 enamel is banned in Cali but i think if i look hard enough i can find some

 

[fishrdan]

Anybody tried this stuff?

Nope, Rustoleum Industrial enamel for me. $9/qt or $4/spray can. Holds up well, and is cheap.

There are products to treat rust, rust converters, apply , let it do it's "thing" then paint over it.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I painted my outdrive with a Martin Senour auto quality paint. Not all that high of a quality. Looks great and will be easy and relatively cheap to repaint when it gets scratched or water deposits on it. I don't think I'd go anything fancier. Like fishrdan said, the undercoating is the more important consideration.

 

[Scott Danforth]

POR-15 came off my outdrive in sheets and I bead-blasted and scotch-brighted the surface, used their metal-prep, the POR-15 as a base (2 coats) and their hard-nose paint. 9 years ago the products from POR-15 would have been something that I used daily restoring vehicles, etc. however somewhere in the past 7-8 years, the company changed ownership and is no longer restomotive technologies. when that happened, the products no longer performed like they had 20+ years prior.

Long story short, I will no-longer use POR 15 if you paid me. self-ectching zinc primer, 2-part urethane paint, sprayed with a preval sprayer while hanging from the engine hoist is what I did after the POR-15 fell off.

 

[Goldie627]

Thanks guys, lots of options to think about

scott.... was that urethane a high temp BC CC? Or the same type of auto paint youd normaly use?

And also, I was thinking of leaving as much of the original paint as I could, and only primering where i take it down to bare metal durimg the rust removal process, motor is not that bad but does have some spots that need attention

the parts of the motor that is not bare metal I can scotch brite till dull

is my plan ok? Or should i primer the whole engine?

 

[fishrdan]

I've never primed and engine, or spot primed it, just shoot it with paint after prepping the rusty spots. Scrub down with simple green, rinse with water, dry with compressed air, paint.

Aluminum drive stuff is a different story, must prep/prime the bare aluminum before painting.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,... Ditto what Dan said,....

I clean up the motor, 'n shoot it with Rustoleum industrial enamel,....

As for Hi-temp paint, ya don't need it,....
Hi-temp paint means over 500*,....
Our motors should Never see more than 180*, which is just fine, for an industrial enamel paint,...
The only burn-off I've ever seen is on the intake manifold of a V-motor, where the exhaust cross-over heats the carb,....

 

[Goldie627]

After one week of vinegar soaking. I wire brushed it about every couple of days using various drill attachments.

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[Goldie627]

Really light coating of the etching primer.

 

[Goldie627]

Pitting was way deeper than i thought, i should have built the primer up alot more. Will do more coats of paint till it fills in or buy an aftermarket timing cover off ebay for 50 bucks, oem timing cover average price is almost 300!

 

[Goldie627]

Im not showing all the runs on my flywheel hosing till i fix them

 

[Goldie627]

by the time i got to the oil pan i got the hang of painting again

 

[Goldie627]

I decided to do one coat disassembled and second or thirds after its installed

 

[Goldie627]

Does perfect seal go here where the blue painters tape is? If yes, does that interfere with the main bearing cap torque spec?

rick i know you answered this i just wanna make sure i understood you right

 

[Goldie627]

should i install the main seal like this so the connecting edges are hidden?

 

[Goldie627]

does perfect seal go in between where the upper and lower seals meet? (where the blue tape is)

 

[Goldie627]

anything on the inside of rear main seal? oil? rtv? perfect seal?

 

[Goldie627]

anything on the outside of the rear main seal? oil? rtv? perfect seal?

again rick i think you answered this already but im just making sure i understand correctly, sometimes without a pic i get a lil confused with the orientations of the seal

 

[Goldie627]

theres some heavy rust on the block near the water pump, im scared to use any kind of wire brush... any advise for getting it clean? so far ive used razor blades, gasket scraper and a plastic gasket remover drill attachment, the yellow one. maybe i just need more patience....

 

[Goldie627]

oh yea, i almost forgot, i found out why my valve cover was leaking after i just had did that gasket not too long ago.

while taking out the lifters i hadda take off the valve cover to losen the rocker arms and look what i found, the gasket had slipped in a spot where there's no bolt to hold it in place :facepalm:

proper sqwishage:


improper sqwishage: