take a sharpie marker and draw a line across the prop, and the prop shaft. run the motor. if the line changes, you have a spun prop hub and simply need a new prop
I made a delrin ring to make my F6 hub-centric to the new SFI rated damper.
I would seriously get a new damper as the rubber is coming out of that one.
In addition to what is covered above
On the boat side, barrier coat and bottom paint
On the out drive and props, a protective coating such as prop speed
On the issue with bottom growth, a good hooka rig or a tank setup for monthly bottom cleaning
By IMO law, all passerelle and gangplank boxes need to be hull tight and pass hull rating.
The equipment manufacturer would have tested it prior to sending to the yacht builder. Usually 5 to 8 psi as it's below the weatherdeck
It's up to the builder to do a post-installation test
It's up to...
The F6 is more than enough. It's for big blocks
The F5 pump is more than enough
A full system will require a 5" diameter heat exchangers or larger
For plumbing a full system it may be easier to run two in-house thermostats.
Water flow on raw water side..... from seacock and sea strainer...
Gapping alone may get you home , but it isn't accurate it in the +/-40% range
Dwell needs to be correct to get coil saturation so that when the points open, the magnetic field is as strong as possible when it collapses and energizes the secondary windings providing the coil output
The meter...
I would pull the pump, the plastic reservoirs are known to crack after 15 years
That will allow you to inspect and clean the reservoir
The only way water enters thru the cap is if the pump was submerged
Most likely one of the cylinders has a seal leak. The hydraulic seals last 15-20 years
the safety lanyard is usually just a break in the ignition wire. so if its not working, nothing back to the engine will work.
follow the purple wire from the key switch, it then goes thru the safety lanyard, then to the motor.
