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  1. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    The parts have arrived . . . Looks good. Here they are, showing both top and bottom surfaces. One nice surprise is that the extension blocks have openings between the 4 main ducts as evidenced by the twist ties I inserted through one of the passageways. So . . . these extension blocks...
  2. tpenfield

    89 Rinker Restore: Seeking suggestions for new SBC350

    Cam duration and lobe separation are important for a marine engine, because of the 'wet' exhaust. Less 'duration' and more 'separation' are good things for a marine engine. Google 'exhaust reversion' for more details. Essentially, at the top of the exhaust stroke, both exhaust and intake...
  3. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    I've ordered parts, so I'll see what arrives. I plan on digging into the exhaust over the next couple of weeks. . . adding the extension blocks, new flappers, etc.
  4. tpenfield

    What are the essential tools to keep on board?

    I bring this . . . And this . . . Along with epoxy, spare parts, hardware, fuses, etc . . .
  5. tpenfield

    Old Mercury won't pee!

    Well, it is often harder to pee as you get older . . . :D 🤪 Glad you got it sorted out. (y)
  6. tpenfield

    Can you start these in cold temperatures out of water?

    As for the cold temperature question, assuming you get the engine running to check it out. . . You will need to winterize it immediately once tested. In 20-30˚ F temperatures, any remaining water inside the engine (usually about 3 gallons) will freeze within 24 hours.
  7. tpenfield

    1987 Power Play XLT-185 - floors, stringers, and upholstery

    Maybe you can just use some acetone to pull up the wax layer. Sanding may not be the best approach, since it will tend to cut into the fibers of the CSM, and promote water penetration through the fiberglass layers. You can always do a pull test on a small area of the floor by seeing how well...
  8. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    After some search, I have found only a couple of parts like the one I prefer that look like this. . . an HGE 3320-APR which is an aluminum part - not my first choice, and XME 43320 which is in short supply. I'll see what I can get . . .
  9. tpenfield

    Milky madness

    Just by the looks of the milkshake all over the engine and your description of 'blowing' the water out (which you now know didn't do anything except put some added wear on the impeller) - I'd say you have a total loss of an engine. Maybe it is just the exhaust manifolds that cracked and not the...
  10. tpenfield

    Bravo 2 outdrive not engaging when in gear

    Yes, you/he needs to check for missing parts. I assume he never found the impeller in the lower unit. :unsure: :rolleyes: I would also think you may want to take the outdrive apart again and put it back together with the aid of the service manual. Does your friend wish he waited until you...
  11. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    I'd prefer to do something like this, but I'll be taking a look at the boat first to make sure about all of the bits and pieces. On thing I am realizing is that the shift linkage and electrical box may have to mount to the riser instead of the elbow ??? :unsure: Not sure if they will raise...
  12. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    Thanks for the info, Scott. It looks like those are dry-joint style, but my manifolds are old school wet-joint.
  13. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    I found the information in my Merc manual (#16). It does show that the riser would be part of the sea water flow, but . . . I'm thinking it would be better to separate the iron (riser) and the stainless steel (elbow) for longevity. So, I probably will go with the 'second' style riser that I...
  14. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    Hi Scott, How much taller are the 8.1 elbows? I'm thinking I need about 3" of additional 'rise' to put things above spec.
  15. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    I’m going to try to get the second kind that allows flow between the channels and see if I can router the ducts between the channels to be a little deeper than they are originally. To your point, AD I want to have the most flow through these parts.
  16. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    I'm thinking that I'll be buying a 3/16" end mill bit . . . :D 🤪
  17. tpenfield

    Engine replacement

    Tranny??? . . . I don't see no tranny. Pull the outdrive, then pull the engine.
  18. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    I was thinking that, but still water would only go in the one channel and then up to the elbow. Ideally, I'd like the riser block to be part of the closed side, since the elbow is stainless steel. If I can't get the riser blocks with the ducts connecting the channels, then I probably would do...
  19. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    My take is the straight riser (first one shown) will only flow through 1 of the 4 channels. The other 3 channels have no way of passing water to the outlet fitting on the side of the riser block since there will be the block-of gasket at the top of the riser. Shown in red on my last picture...
  20. tpenfield

    Riser Extension Blocks - Full Closed Cooling ???

    Greetings, I have been wanting to add 3" riser extension blocks to my Mercruiser 7.4L engines exhaust, because the current setup is slightly below spec (1-2" low). Since I added an extended swim platform, the odds of sinking the stern lower with people is greater than before. Anyway - the...
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