dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

24, and 36 grit flap discs are what I need for the grinding, and I'd probably make a mess if I tried to do the grinding with 24 or 36 grit cutting discs, right? I only ask because I see 24 grit cutting discs at harbor freight for a pack of ten at a good price, but no 4.5 inch flap discs.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

That's personal preferance, some people like the flaps... but I see the round sanding discs being recommended more, something about the flaps clogging easier I think.

 

[Bomber Goober]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I used the 4 1/2'' flap discs from harbor freight , I bought 6 at $4 a piece and still have 2 left I think after doing the inside and the cap on my 14' tri-hull, I didn't notice any clogging and was overall satisfied with the results

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'll try both. My hull is fairly thick so I think I have a little[\B] room for error. I plan to glass a couple speaker boxes first for practice. I will be installing some 8" and 6x9 speakers in boxes so I think it would be good experience for me to start getting the hang of it. I'm pretty much at a standstill until I get the motor out.

Thanks guys so much for the help and guidance. Between this thread, jays builds, and the info you fellas gave me about a year ago in my other Dixie thread I feel confident I can do this and have a solid boat that I'll be wearing motors out in for years to come . I'm still a little gun shy but I think once I get to cutting and grinding and mocking things up it will all fall into place.

For those interested I plan to keep a tally on my materials and costs and post it all in the end. That's something I've been interested in all along and have not been able to find in completion in any thread. Just to give people in my situation an idea what to expect.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I plan to conduct a small experiment when I get my foam in. I have a small wooden box at home that will be pretend stringers and bulkhead. I want to drill a small hole in each end at the bottom, and mock up a french drain inside with the real perfed black pipe and a sock over it. Maybe even a smaller PVC pipe inside also with some holes in it in case some foam penetrates. Glue the pipe down with pl and slather some vaseline on the sock to help keep the liquid foam from soaking through it? Plug the holes in the box and saturate the foam with water. Uncork it and see if water flows out. Then cut it all open to see if foam has entered inside the piping. Any ideas on a better method to test? Will also give me a little foaming practice before I jump right in.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

You'll have to leave the water in the box for months before it will absorb into the foam.

Contrary to popular belief, expanding foam isn't like a sponge that sucks up water on contact. It takes a long time of constant exposure for expanding foam to become saturated.

From the USComposites site foam FAQ's:

14. Is this foam water resistant?

Yes, but with the following caveat. The foams that we sell are considered closed-cell, which means that each cell that makes up the foam structure is completely closed off from surrounding cells which prevents it from acting like a sponge. It is completely safe for this foam to be in contact with water for hours/days/weeks and even months with no adverse effects. However, it should never be submerged in contact with water permanently. Over a period of years the water contact can begin to soften the foam and cause it to lose its closed-cell status. This foam is designed primarily to be used as an insurance policy in case of damage/holes that could cause a vessel to lose buoyancy. Pinhole sized openings would essentially have no effect on the foam since the amount of exposure is so minimal but you should always make repairs as soon as possible to keep the foam effectiveness as good as possible. This will be the case with all after market closed-cell polyurethane foams and even manufacturer installed foams.

More FAQ's you may be interested in.
Frequently Asked Questions - General

This is why I just suggest the grooves on top of the foam, if you get rid of the water fairly quickly you don't have anything to worry about... plus a good waterproofer on top like epoxy resin and you'll never have to worry about it.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Alright. 'Nuff said. I was gonna try both, but I'll just go with a paint or epoxy on top and cut channels in top and be done with it. I'll crank the nose high when I park it and I'm also going with durabak or a colored truck bed product I saw in another thread for my floor covering. That too will give some waterproofing and I can recoat as needed. Tomorrow I'm getting the motor ready to pull and maybe grind on the old edges of the floor if I get time. I don't wanna start cutting stringers until I have the motor out and she's parked back safely under the carport.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'm also going with durabak or a colored truck bed product I saw in another thread for my floor covering. That too will give some waterproofing and I can recoat as needed.

The real waterproofing for the top of the deck will come when you glass the top of your deck in and tab it to the hull... this also strengthens your boat so it's not something you want to skimp on.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I know and that's not what I was insinuating at all. But it can certainly help over carpet.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

But it can certainly help over carpet.

Real men do not have carpet in their boats!

 

[vincentkm]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Sorry to hijack this thread but I am doing the exact same project and I also cut through my hull with a circular saw. Right there where I was tryi g to seperate the old deck from the hull. I tried to get advice for about a month, and last night I began grinding/feathering on THE OUTSIDE (underneath). Then I saw this thread. Am I screwed? The hull is extremely thin (around 1/8in) I obviously cant grind from top down until the outside (underneath) patch is complete. The cut is completely through about 6inches and just scored for about 12more. Boat is a 1989 Flightcraft inboard ski boat.

Thanks
Vinnie

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Nah I was advised to sand through the gel coat and put a little glass on the outside too. If you sanded too thin I would think you can build it back up.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Real men do not have carpet in their boats!

Yep I agree. This one will get a durabak-esque material or gel coat with some type of non skid granules mixed in. If I ever buy another boat its carpet will be removed.

I'm so anxious to be able to get started cutting out my transom and stringers and get some wood in there! Even just a mock up with pink foam would excite me.

 

[vincentkm]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Ah okay. I started with the outside first because I wanted do epoxy on the inside. So I thought in order to be able to gelcoat the exterior I had to layup poly resin from the outside first, then go back and do another patch and buildup from the inside using epoxy and a larger area. (IE epoxy over poly and not vice versa. Do I need cloth on the exterior patch or is CSM fine? I ground a "dish" 3 inches on all sides around the cut.

 

[vincentkm]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

My 3 inch exterior grinding area only left me 1 inch away from a trailer bunk and I will be doing the patch overhead (from underneath) with poly. If I had any idea how to match the grey gelcoat over top of an epoxy exterior patch I would have preferred. Any tips on working overhead?

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

To fix the cut hull do this...
Tape wax paper to the outside of the hull then cover with Packing Tape or Duct tape. Use PB and a putty knife to fill the cut on the inside. Sand back from the cut 6" all around. Lay a 1" strip of CSM over the Cut. Then Lay a 2" strip of 1708 over that. A 4" piece of CSM another 6" piece of 1708. Let cure over night. Sand the cut on the outside, lay a couple of layers of CSM and then use Fairing Material ( you can make your own from resin and glass bubbles) to fair it all in final sand to 180 grit, then Gelcoat or paint. DONE!!!!

This is what I was told. My hull is more like half an inch thick at the cut, but its a similar gash. I bet this applies to your cut as well.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Ah okay. I started with the outside first because I wanted do epoxy on the inside. So I thought in order to be able to gelcoat the exterior I had to layup poly resin from the outside first, then go back and do another patch and buildup from the inside using epoxy and a larger area. (IE epoxy over poly and not vice versa. Do I need cloth on the exterior patch or is CSM fine? I ground a "dish" 3 inches on all sides around the cut.

My 3 inch exterior grinding area only left me 1 inch away from a trailer bunk and I will be doing the patch overhead (from underneath) with poly. If I had any idea how to match the grey gelcoat over top of an epoxy exterior patch I would have preferred. Any tips on working overhead?

You need to start your own thread to ask your questions vince... this thread is mwe's.

It'll also make it easier for you to keep track of all the information given to you if you have your own thread.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Ah geez. The more I read the more questions I have. If I take care to do it right, wouldn't it be better for me to cap my stringers witb 1708 instead of the two layers of torn csm in the layup diagram? I get conflicting information as to which is easiest to lay over the curve of the top of the stringer. I will round it over well with a palm sander.

If I am not able to do my entire layup at once, which is very likely, I can't just go back to laying where I left off, can I? I'll need to sand it with a rough sandpaper won't I? Is a palm sander useful at all when preparing the hull for glass?

I lo e oops idea of adding channels in the foam by laying plastic over the hull and pipe and stringers so the foam can be pulled back up. I see this most useful in the event of a crack in the hull.

But it seems like maybe overkill?

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Do what works for you. I have used 1708 over my stringers, and it worked fine. Just round it off and spend some time working it out, and it will lay down fine.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I lo e oops idea of adding channels in the foam by laying plastic over the hull and pipe and stringers so the foam can be pulled back up. I see this most useful in the event of a crack in the hull.

Plastic under the foam can trap water between the plastic and the hull... and between the plastic and the foam.

Instead of the foam holding itself in the boat like it would when poured directly on the hull, it would be loose under the deck. This means the decking will be the only thing holding the foam in the boat should the boat fill with water... kinda like picking your boat up off of the trailer by the decking only.