dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Your hull is not foam critical. That is, the foam is NOT structural so it is only for floatation. whether its attached to the hull or free floating it will still float the boat unless the damage is catastrophic and the hull was split to the point it could float out and away. In that case, your SUNK so to speak!!!! OOPS plan is valid and there's no problem doing it that way. Stringers don't usually rot from the top. The two layers of csm to cap them combined with the resin is basically only for sealing them and this is more than adequate. The structural strength comes from the 1708 tabbed to the hull and up the sides of the stringer. Do what you want. Either method will work. If you tug the CSM to stretch the fibers is will be much easier to lay over the tops. Again it's primarily for sealing not adding strength.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Your hull is not foam critical. That is, the foam is NOT structural so it is only for floatation. whether its attached to the hull or free floating it will still float the boat unless the damage is catastrophic and the hull was split to the point it could float out and away. In that case, your SUNK so to speak!!!! OOPS plan is valid and there's no problem doing it that way. Stringers don't usually rot from the top. The two layers of csm to cap them combined with the resin is basically only for sealing them and this is more than adequate. The structural strength comes from the 1708 tabbed to the hull and up the sides of the stringer. Do what you want. Either method will work. If you tug the CSM to stretch the fibers is will be much easier to lay over the tops. Again it's primarily for sealing not adding strength.

OK. That is basically what I was after-which way would be easiest for a first timer like me. If I seal the top of the foam with epoxy instead of paint, there is no need to keep it off the stringers as with the paint, like we discussed, correct? That might mean I'll go with the epoxy sealing the foam instead.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

If I seal the top of the foam with epoxy instead of paint, there is no need to keep it off the stringers as with the paint, like we discussed, correct? That might mean I'll go with the epoxy sealing the foam instead.

The epoxy would be best, you can coat the stringers and bulkheads with it and it'll seal the groove cuts in the bulkheads and stringers while you're applying it to the foam if you choose to use the grooving method for drainage.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I will certainly groove my foam.

Got the motor ready to pull today. Hopefully I can get my dad over to help me pull it next week. Then the real work can begin!

I believe my transom spans the entire rear, with a doubled up center section.

Which stinks because I'll need to remove part of this shelf. It runs right above the floor line to about where the shifter is. It is made of foam glassed over. I'll have to cut back enough to allow me to tab the transom and have room to clean the old glass.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

As I cut this fiberglass, it smells just like sanding bondo. Sooo.....is bond useful at l in this process? For any filling or anything?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Bondo uses Talc as a filler agent in it's products. This renders it non Water proof to an extent. It can be used in some applications above the water line, but...It is expensive compared to the cost of making your own.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Gotcha. Does anyone see a problem with me transporting the boat as is on about a 45 minute ride to where my dad works to pull the motor out? The stringers are all still in. I don't see it causing problems, but I wanted the experts' opinions. Its all fairly good roads. They we'll set the motor in the bed of my truck on some 6x6 blocks.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

You should be fine as long as you still have the bow eye and transom tie downs still on it.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

It is written that I have a choice between 3 layers of csm or 2 layers of csm and a layer of 6.oz cloth for the deck. Which option is the best? I don't mean cheapest, or easiest, but strongest and or most waterproof. I am either going to gel coat the deck or coat it with a rubber colored truck bed material. I'm leaning toward a grey gel coat cause it looked awesome in jays sea ray. So I guess I meed to take into account which will give the purdiest surface to paint also.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

The 2 layers of CSM and then the cloth should give you the best appearance and base for your desired finish.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

If you decide gelcoat, you will probably want the finer finish of CSM instead of the weave of the 6oz. The weave may print thru unless you fill & fair it.... So: CSM, 6oz, CSM, if you already have the 6oz.

If I wanted to minimize all the concerns you raised that weren't cost related, I'd probably CSM, 1708, CSM.

The CSM may need some attention too, as will any deck seams prior to installation of the CSM.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

If you decide gelcoat, you will probably want the finer finish of CSM instead of the weave of the 6oz. The weave may print thru unless you fill & fair it.... So: CSM, 6oz, CSM, if you already have the 6oz.

If I wanted to minimize all the concerns you raised that weren't cost related, I'd probably CSM, 1708, CSM.

The CSM may need some attention too, as will any deck seams prior to installation of the CSM.

I am going to fill and sand the seams well so hopefully it won't show through. I think this is the way I'll go. The cost of the mat and cloth I feel is negligible in no larger quantities than I'm needing. Its the poly that is so high. And the epoxy for the bottom and the top of the foam.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Is it a necessity to gel coat the bilge and tank compartment?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Some use

or similar.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Your hull is not foam critical. That is, the foam is NOT structural so it is only for floatation. whether its attached to the hull or free floating it will still float the boat unless the damage is catastrophic and the hull was split to the point it could float out and away. In that case, your SUNK so to speak!!!! OOPS plan is valid and there's no problem doing it that way. Stringers don't usually rot from the top. The two layers of csm to cap them combined with the resin is basically only for sealing them and this is more than adequate. The structural strength comes from the 1708 tabbed to the hull and up the sides of the stringer. Do what you want. Either method will work. If you tug the CSM to stretch the fibers is will be much easier to lay over the tops. Again it's primarily for sealing not adding strength.

If this is the case, would there be anything wrong with running 1708 all the way up the sides of the stringers when I glass the sides in, then going over the very top with resin mixed with chopped strand fibers? Then it will all get coated with epoxy also when I seal the top of the foam.

When I'm doing my layups, if I'm not able to finish all layers on any certain part before it dries, is it necessary to rough it up before glassing over it again?

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

When I get the motor back in place on the new stringers, do I pre drill a hole for the lag bolts and fill first with 5200m mine were screwed straight into the wood at odd angles with no sort of sealant. I think there was a piece of lumber lammed to the plywood of the stringers to widen it under the motor. I just plan to lam ply together to the approximate thickness that is there now.

The small sections of deck either side of the bilge where the trim pump and battery are I would like to leave foam free and have a trap door for storage. I know its not much but I can keep a small assortment of tools and my ropes in there. Any problems with me doing that? The part will be sectioned out with a bulkhead so if water got in it wouldn't get to the foam and I could just vaccum/towel it out. After I cut the door in I'll paint around the cut with epoxy, and use bilge coat inside the compartment. I could account for the foam by gluing a similar amount under the cap there in the rear so I still have all the emergency flotation ability?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Predrill for MM lags, install lags, remove lags, squirt 5200 into hole, screw lag in tight.

Ropes would be ok in rear below deck storage, tools... not so much. Store the tools up higher and toward the bow to reduce chance of rust.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Epoxy for the foam??? Not sure I follow. Unless you cut the foam there's no need to coat it with epoxy. The 6oz cloth will not show a pattern. If you tab the deck to the hull with 8" strips of 1708 and use 2 layers of CSM and a final 6oz cloth layer it will be a TANK!!!
Stirngers will be fine using the method shown in my previously posted drawings. As long as you predrill and precoat any penetrations into the stringers they'll last for decades. As I've said many times It's all about the care and Maintenance. Even shoddy workmanship will last a long time if properly maintained.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'm going to glue epoxy coated cleats to the stringers and screw to that. I ain't screwing nothing to the stringers! I want to cut grooves in my foam for any water that may enter can drain to the bilge and paint or epoxy over the foam as recommended earlier. Maybe overkill but if it doesn't break the bank I think I'll go for it.

Side note. 3" tabbing on transom with 1.5 oz good enough? Then overlap the tab by 2" on each succeeding layer (2) of 1708?

It will be kept under a 2 car metal carport when not in use and I will avoid being out in rain as much as possible. After my experiences I always set the jack on a 6x6 and crank the nose as high as possible also. I plan to shop vac any water out of the bilge after use also. 4 people in and out while boarding tend to bring in a lot of water.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'd use 8" (4" on transom 4" on hull.) First layer of 1708 4" bigger and the last 4" bigger than the previous. The strength comes from the attachment to the hull.