It is in FrankAs video.
If you have belt driven distributor (Motorola) ignition system, you set at WOT 30 dgr BTDC static without cranking.
If you have magneto CDI system (Prestolite) you set at WOT 28 drg BTDC at cranking speed (dynamic). This will end up with 30 drg running at WOT.
No special tools to rebuild the carbs just clean out all channels, jets and nozzles.
Then set the float level right.
When turning the carb upside down the float should be parallel with the casting of the bowl edge.
Then adjust the float drop.
If you have Walbor carbs the drop should be 1,00-1,08...
If you suspect water in the bottom of the tank there is water in the fuel pump and the carbs too.
Maybe there was a bit dirt in the bottom too.
Clean the carbs, the fuel pump and the fuel line.
Okey, now you have to measure the output voltage from the stator and the trigger.
Output from the stator usually should be 180 VDC or more and the trigger voltage 0,5 VDC or more.
Sounds odd you do not have spark despite changing both CDI, stator and trigger.
How is the magnets in the flywheel...
Are the values you measured resistance?
740 Ohm and plus 340 kOhm.
Looks like the second stator winding is bad.
Check peak voltage with the DVA too.
The voltage is a more true parameter then just resistance of the winding.
The limit for the 3-4 cylinder Chrysler/Force is 0.04 in OD.
Pistons are available in 0,01, 0,02, 0,03 and 0,04 in OD.
If I do not remember wrong OEM pistons are not available in all those four OD sizes.
Aftermarket have all four, I believe.
From the pic this is a Chrysler from 1974 and up.
From 1974 they were rated 75Hp until 1978-79 I believe.
If it has the belt driven distributor the keyswitch should be as follows.
Red B terminal
Yellow S terminal
Blue I terminal
Green C terminal
The two M terminals are not...
Okey now I understand why there was threads in the pic at post #17.
I have newer seen this two piece shift rod. Maybe some other has, jerryjerry or pnwboat etc.
My bad LU with the bellow seal has the regular one piece lower shift rod.
This regular shift rod is screwed into the shift arm, but...
Force which basically is a Chrysler is in my opinion a good old school engineered OB.
Easy to work on compared to other brands from the same period.
US Marine bought Chrysler OB in 1984-85 and put the Force name at the hood. Later Brunswick (Mercury) bought Bayliner which was the Force brand...
Okey Radiodan, then Franz still have the same offer as when I email him last autumn.
Maybe I will send my cover too, but as I had a spare LU with another typ of seal I decided to use that.
200 dollars is a lot of money but maybe worth it.
Thanks for the information and good luck.
Radiodan, the bellow is the seal believe me.It is a N/A part.
I have the same issue with one of my spare lower unit.
Check with Franz Marine what he can offer.
I email with he last autumn and the solution was a new typ cover with a regular rubber seal, no bellow.
If do not remembered wrong it...
Notice that the rubber bellow at the shift rod is the seal to the gear lube and it is out of order. First pic.
It will leak a lot and yes the shift rod has to be threaded back into the shift arm.
Maybe you can pull the whole cover and get it back to the shift arm but still the bellow is the...
Two inch above the cavitation plate is not enough.
The level should be above the impeller housing and is located at the split line of the LU to the leg.
It is at least 4 inch as jerryjerry says.
The rubber seal that should be at the top of the drive shaft is not a big issue.
Just put a light coat of marine grease at the spline and it will be enough.
That rubber seal is for protect the drive shaft spline and crank to rust and get stuck.
Your big issue is the rubber below for the shift...
