1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Lets get these down here where they'll be easy to reference:

Here is the two tears in the transoms outer skin:
View attachment 156342View attachment 156343
The smaller tear is the left side and the larger is the right side.

The third photo shows the tears from further away, they are circled in blue and red
View attachment 156344

I think you'll need to try & do the repairs & the transom all in 1 process of multiple steps.....

Until someone w/ experience (WOG hopefully or Yacht Dr) chimes in. In the meantime, you'll probably want to go ahead & get those rubrail & spears removed, as no matter the order of transom & tear repair, you'll be cutting & grinding around those tears & laying fresh glass & resin on the exterior of the transom.

Removing the rubrail, is the 1st step to taking the cap off... Lots of pix & measurements if you decide to remove the cap. And a supporting cradle for the hull would be a good idea.

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

^^ I think he has already cut the cap just in front of the transom. Should be good to go..^^

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

SP, you are correct, I was using the pix I copied from the earlier post as a reference:facepalm:

I just got out the angle grinder and cut off the two parts of the top rail on the stearn about half a foot from the back. It looks like the transom has been redone previously, in a very poor way

So the rubrail & spear end are all out of the way to repair the tears in the exterior transom skin, correct?

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Ya know just thinking it might be a good idea to repair the torn outside skin from the inside before the ply goes in. It may make it a little stronger or do you think that may be a little overkill ...

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

I've grinded the inner skin smooth with my flap sander angle grinder disk, while doing so I accidentally made a few small holes in the floor. SThe skin seemed way too thin inn these spots. Shouldn't be too hard to repair. Now my concern with making my transom template now is the two tears in the stearn. If youlook at my first photos you will see the tears. I think the tears are making the stearn an irregular shape and they should probobly be repaired before making my transom. How should I go about doing this?

I meant to say I've grinded the inside of the outside skin, not the inside skin for that has already been removed. Yeah I have cut off part of the top rail about half a foot from the stearn. I just need mymaterials and then maybe you guys could walk. Me through fixing these tears and holes?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

No, not a bad idea, but no matter, there will be a repair on the exterior as well. I would definitely defer to WOG or YD, but I was thinking:
grind out the interior side
PB if necessary
1 layer CSM to cover (if it won't make too much of a hump, 1708 too slightly larger
PB the transom (w 1 layer CSM already wrapping both sides & all edges) into place
then PB fillets & tabbing as usual.

Then you've got a solid backer for the exterior repair, fill & fair it & you're done. Only 1 round of 'repair' & glassing on each side of the exterior transom skin. If you repair the interior, repair the exterior, and then install the transom, you'll probably need to fill & fair the exterior again, so that's 2 times each side...

But that is by no means a tried, tested & approved plan......

We need to get a bat signal &/or light beacon for WOG

And maybe some nice theme music to play while we wait for Super-WOG (SW) to arrive:facepalm:

YD can have 1 too

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

I meant to say I've grinded the inside of the outside skin, not the inside skin for that has already been removed. Yeah I have cut off part of the top rail about half a foot from the stearn. I just need mymaterials and then maybe you guys could walk. Me through fixing these tears and holes?

You are doing fine. I would volunteer to help however, I am headed to DHMC for a knee replacement this week.

I am in Castleton and if you get jammed up send me a PM and I will give you my #.............. I expect to be recoving for a few weeks and I will be home.

Bob

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

I meant to say I've ground the inside of the outside skin, not the inside skin for that has already been removed. Yeah I have cut off part of the top rail about half a foot from the stern. I just need my materials and then maybe you guys could walk. Me through fixing these tears and holes?

I followed what you meant. Yes, it gets confusing talking about transoms: inner finished surface fiberglass skin (that you removed), outer fiberglass skin (with the tears), plywood in the middle, and then you've now got both sides of the exterior transom skin too:facepalm:

No matter how you proceed from here, you needed to grind the inner surface of the exterior fiberglass skin to get a good bond w/ the PB or PL you'll use to adhere the wooden transom (CSM & resin wrapped) onto the fiberglass. So ground inner face is good progress.

Like I said the tear is going to need input of a wise sage. I'm more of the court jester

As for extra holes or no longer needed holes in the fiberglass skin, those will pe partially filled during the wood transom install. The remaining filling & fairing of the holes after, during the rest of the hull touchups, repairs & filling/fairing stages. So you're good there too for now...

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

You are doing fine. I would volunteer to help however, I am headed to DHMC for a knee replacement this week. I am in Castleton and if you get jammed up send me a PM and I will give you my #.............. I expect to be recoving for a few weeks and I will be home. Bob

There's one of the sages I was referring to


PM your way Bob

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

You might be able to tell in this photo how the transom is curved. Look at the gap in the center compared to the ends and you can see the difference.

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

I am astonished with how friendly and eager to helpall of you are, its very inspiring. I can't express how grateful I am to have a bunch of guys like you helping me through this. Thank you all so much! Hey Bob, hope your knee replacement goes well, your in my prayers. I live inVergennes, right down the road from Champlain. I'm currently in south royalton working on the boat. My brother is a church organist in castlon, small world this is. Okay, so back to the boa Hey Jon sob, I see what you mean with the curve. I should be able to bend plywood to thatcurve if I use 3/8"? No? Why did you have to sand yours so much?

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Oh btw, all I've had is a cell phone for the past week. That's why I haven't been posting pictures, ill have a computer in a few days

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

A bit closer to us for epoxy products ....... you might want to check http://www.epoxyproducts.com/ just the other side of Concord NH which could save you $$$ on shipping

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Hey Jon sob, I see what you mean with the curve. I should be able to bend plywood to thatcurve if I use 3/8"? No? Why did you have to sand yours so much?

If you make a set of those clamps and put in one piece of 3/8" ply at a time you should be able to bend it to the shape of the transom. The reason that I had to sand mine so much is because I didn't know there was a curve in the transom and I glued mine together on a work table so it would be straight. When I put the transom wood in to dry fit it I noticed there was a huge gap in the middle and I didn't want to start over and make a new one so i just sanded it to fit. You can see the gap in this photo:

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (I'm back on track and ready to go!)

A bit closer to us for epoxy products ....... you might want to check http://www.epoxyproducts.com/ just the other side of Concord NH which could save you $$$ on shipping

I wish I knew about this place before ipurchased all my materials at a company that's way down in florida, oh well, the stuff should be here on the 19th at least. Then the real work begins! I ordered such an excessive amount of stuff, I'll use some of the leftovers to fix a canoe that I will find in the future.

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Hey guys, all my. Materials have arrived so I'm ready to get to work. I just gotta go to the hardware store and get some paint rollers and brushes and sturring cups. I also have to go get the 3/8" plywood too. So if someone could help walk me through fixing those tears and laying down the csm and 1708 that would be awesome. Thanks alot

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

I'll hopefully begin the job tomorrow

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

I can't remember how Jon prepared his transom before the plywood but on the tear I would think you should brace it from the outside to keep its original shape somehow. Maybe clamp or screw a piece of masonite or thick cardboard on it. Grind down the crack on the inside and out 6 or 8 inches all the way around . Wipe it down good with acetone and then install csm about 2 " wider all the way around the crack then a layer of 1708 2 " bigger past the csm and then another layer of csm 2" past that. I'm no pro but I think that would be strong enough..If you have not done any glassing yet you may want to mix a little up and practice on a small piece just to get the feel for it..
Good luck !

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

RrrrJust got back from home depotand spent 90 Dollars on acetone, 6" rollers, tyvek body suit, biological warefare gloves, threaded rod, nuts annd washers, stirring cups and sticks. Id say I got just about everything I need to start cooking meth.... errrrr, I mean working with fiberglass. Who woulda thought you'd need so much stuff? I sure didn't. So I now have every possible thing that I'll need. Now to get home and begin. Sphelps, that sounds like a pretty solid plan for fixing the tears. Could you give me some instructions on how to lay the fiberglass? Do I pour the resin onto the site and then spread. It around with a spreader and even it with a foam roller. Then lay the csm down and roll my aluminum finish roller? Then put the 1708?

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Well you are working a vertical surface so your roller will be the best tool to use. After the acetone bath have everything ready . pre-cut all your pieces of glass before you mix the resin . Just a rule of thumb it takes about 4 oz of resin to wet out 1 sq ft of csm. Not sure on the 1708 but I would assume it would take a little more for that. Start with small batches to get the hang of it and how much to mix. Dip your roller in the mixed resin and put a nice coat on the area to be glassed then lay the csm centered on the crack start rolling from the center out untill it starts to get clear you will need to add more resin to the dry mat as you go . Keep working it in untill it is completely wet and clear looking. You will have to work quickly before it starts to harden. Do the same thing on the rest of your layers . Wet on wet layers will give you the best bond. You can use the bubble roller to help get the bubbles out if you want. The more glassing you do the better you will get at it. If you screw up no big deal just grind out the bad stuff and repair.
Post us some pics of the area's your working on that will help us all out giving advise. Plus we all just really dig pics and vids !
Good luck and keep us posted ! S.P.