1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Alright, i'll post pictures tomorrow. I'll take plenty of detailed pics;i finally got a computer so i can do that now. Not a thing more i can think of needing except for the Clamps. Today i purchased 4 36" 1/2 " threaded rods, 24 washers, 24 nuts and 15 1/8 inch coldering pins for the clamps. I'm really confused about that drawing, neither my grandfather myself or my brother can figure it out. Its confusing me, i hope threaded rod was the right thing to get, i assumed thats what all thread was. Also, whats up with the epoxy, do i countersink a nut? Can't i just make a clamp with 2 2x4's 2 pieces of threaded rod, 2 nuts and 2 washers? Seems way more simple. I'm rambling.....

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

I'm not sure about the clamp I used seacast on my transom so I didn't build a set . You might PM Jon Sob I think he made a set..

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Well you are working a vertical surface so your roller will be the best tool to use. After the acetone bath have everything ready . pre-cut all your pieces of glass before you mix the resin . Just a rule of thumb it takes about 4 oz of resin to wet out 1 sq ft of csm. Not sure on the 1708 but I would assume it would take a little more for that. Start with small batches to get the hang of it and how much to mix. Dip your roller in the mixed resin and put a nice coat on the area to be glassed then lay the csm centered on the crack start rolling from the center out untill it starts to get clear you will need to add more resin to the dry mat as you go . Keep working it in untill it is completely wet and clear looking. You will have to work quickly before it starts to harden. Do the same thing on the rest of your layers . Wet on wet layers will give you the best bond. You can use the bubble roller to help get the bubbles out if you want. The more glassing you do the better you will get at it. If you screw up no big deal just grind out the bad stuff and repair.
Post us some pics of the area's your working on that will help us all out giving advise. Plus we all just really dig pics and vids !
Good luck and keep us posted ! S.P.

This is really really helpful, thank you so much SP

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Since this isnt waxed resin does the final coat need to be covered in a plastic bag or aluminum foil to cure? How much hardener do i use?

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Since this isnt waxed resin does the final coat need to be covered in a plastic bag or aluminum foil to cure? How much hardener do i use?

I sent you a pm on the clamps. The amount of hardener you use will depend on how much resin you are mixing. There should be a chart somewhere with your resin that will tell you how much hardener to use. I am not a glass guy so I don't have an answer for you I just went by the chart but I am sure one of the glass experts will chime in and answer your questions on that. Some guys add wax to the resin on the final coat and some guys don't. I did on my keel but not on my transom. They say that it will take longer to cure without the wax but I really didn't notice the difference. You don't have to cover it with foil or a bag it will be ok.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Mixing ratio for almost all resins/hardeners is 1% to 1.5% hardener to volume of resin. It's easier to use the metric system when mixing. Buy a "Shot" glass sized mixing glass that has cc's markings and mixing cups with metric markings. It's easy to calculate the ratio.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Boatgoat,
Based on the pics from your first post, all you need to do on those cracks for now, is to cut 4 pieces of 1.5 oz CSM for patches. 2 pieces 1 1/2" wide and and inch longer than the crack The next two pieces 3" wide and and 1" longer than the previous pieces. Use a cheap "Chip" brus and paint on some resin around the crack area and then apply the smaller patch and "Dab" some resin on it, DON'T brush it. Just poke it with the brush until it goes clear. When it does apply patch #2 and Dab on a Little bit more resin. Only enuf to make it clear.

For the clamps, the work just like Wood working clamps.

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

So i repaired the cracks today! The larger crack, i used 2 pieces of csm and a piece of 1708, and the smaller i just used two pieces of CSM. I made sure to have each piece overlap the last piece at least an inch and a half, i'm pretty happy with it. Feels really strong. Now the next problem is these holes in the floor that i accidentally made, how sould i fix those? they are pretty close to the corner of the stearn, should i just lay like 2 or 3 piece of csm and a few pieces of 1708? then finish the other side of it when i'm done building the transom and the boat can be flipped over?? Thanks guys, i know how much you all like pictures, i'll go take more!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

You'll need to grind those patches and smooth em out before you put the transom in. For the holes in the bottom just use two pieces of CSM. Don't need much strength since the PB and the wood transom will be covering that area and you will be doing repairs on the outside as well.

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

You'll need to grind those patches and smooth em out before you put the transom in. For the holes in the bottom just use two pieces of CSM. Don't need much strength since the PB and the wood transom will be covering that area and you will be doing repairs on the outside as well.

Yes sir! Now, how far should the csm overlap? same as the crack i assume? I can go do that right now

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Yep just like the cracks.

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Holes all fixed, yay

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Fiberglass work is pretty fun! Is it alright to mix less hardener with my resin to buy me more time to do more glass? I tried biting off more then i could chew and the resin started hardening before i could finish. Had to mix more. I'm gonna have to get more brushes, i go through them really quickly

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Fiberglass work is pretty fun! Is it alright to mix less hardener with my resin to buy me more time to do more glass? I tried biting off more then i could chew and the resin started hardening before i could finish. Had to mix more. I'm gonna have to get more brushes, i go through them really quickly

Yes you can use less, but below 1% the MEKP may not fully kick the resin. Since the only guide about the amount of MEKP you might have used is WOG's recommended 1-1.5%, if your at 1% it may be the volume you've mixed not the % MEKP or the kick rate at that %...

Temp, humidity etc effect the kick rate too. You can trick the resin by keeping it cold when it's hot outside until just before you mix it. Keep the work surface out of the sun & heat if you can.

A large volume of resin kicks quicker then a smaller batch. The exothermic reaction speeds the cure while still in a bucket. For a given volume of resin, say 250ml, a large container (1 liter) w/ 250ml resin in it, will kick slower then the same 250ml of resin in a 500ml container. It may in fact smoke it gets so hot, and may deform the container

Stage a 2nd, 3rd &/or 4th small batches of resin premeasured & ready to be mixed w extra syringes w/ MEKP premeasured.

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Heres more pics of what i've done, i got the floor holes all fixed. I think i'm gonna go ahead and fix the other holes from the inside as well. View attachment 159758View attachment 159762View attachment 159758View attachment 159768 The old transom was set 4 inches from the port and starboard side, this made no sense. So my new transom is going to go all the way to the sides, but now i'm running into a problem with this piece of aluminum that runs the length on the port and starboard sides, here it is. View attachment 159771 I want to cut it where my thumb is so that i can overlap the transoms fiberglass far enough. Think this would be alright?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

I'm not sure how you tried to post those pix, but they didn't show up, just a link that reads Attachment XXYXXX but doesn't go anywhere.

Try photobucket, it puts big pix in the thread so that they are easy to follow w/ your text descriptions:

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Glad WOG and jbc chimed in . Most helpful !!
just a small bit of advice , cut about 3/8 to 1/2 inch off your chips brush . It really helps wetting the glass out.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

A small bit of advice , cut about 3/8 to 1/2 inch off your chips brush . It really helps wetting the glass out.

Thats good advice!

Dab dab dab, tamp tamp tamp <<-- short bristles help with that for sure!

No brushing the resin

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Woops, sorry about the pics. I copy and pasted my message because Iboats signed me off while i was writing it. Heres those pictures of what i've done so far: I mentioned earlier that my boats transom only extended as far as 4 inches from the starboard and port side. I'm going to change this and make it go all the way and almost hit those sides. My problem is this piece of metal that runs the length on the port and starboard side, i want to cut it shorter so that i can overlap the fiberglass for my transom. I want to cut it where my thumb is touching What do you guys think? It might be possible to pull out these rivits and take the whole thing off, then put it back on when the transom is in

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Yeah, I'd grind off the head of the rivet and then drill it out and remove it. You can then re-rivet it or use a stainless bolt to reattach it. Nice job on patching the holes on the bottom.