1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Do the rivits also hold the lower rubrail on the out sideof the boat on? Or are they just exposed down near the water line..My first thought was just carefully cut it about a1/2" from the rivit and then just glass around it. But if it hold the rub on and you plan on painting the hull I guess you could pull the whole thing off and cut it to fit later..
Just my .02 cents .
Later ! S.P.

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Yeah, it is what holds the lower rubrail on. I duno, i dont like the idea of glassiing around aluminum. Woodonglasses idea sounds pretty solid, of grinding off the heads and then removing the whole thing. Then reriviting or bolting it on when its done. What do u mean by cutting it 1/2 inch from the rivit?

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Yep I was writing while Wood was posting . On cutting I just meant don't cut past where the rivit is installed . But taking the whole thing off is definitely the best way to go . BTW patches look great , keep up the good work !

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

So what are your guys thoughts on fixing all the holes in the transom before i put the wood on? I'm gonna get the template made and cut out the pieces tomorrow, then build those complex clamps that boggle my brain.......... Do i really need to put a coldering pin into the threaded rod for the clamp? i dont have a drill press and i don't think i can drill a 1/8" hole into the side of it, wouldnt a nut work just fine?

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

I just put in the transom and the PB filled in all of the holes in the outer skin. Then I just sanded them from the outside and it worked out fine. I didn't go to the side with my transom because I was afraid with that lateral rib being so close to the transom I would not be able to tab it in properly. I figured the size of the transom that was in there was good for fifty years why not do it the same way.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

So what are your guys thoughts on fixing all the holes in the transom before i put the wood on?

When you PB the transom skin prior to putting the wood transom in, the thru holes you're asking about fixing will allow PB to ooze out & prevent air pockets (voids) in the PB/Transom wood/transom skin lamination when you install the transom wood.

Drill some thru holes in the transom wood prior to installation as well. PB will ooze into & out of them & 'key' the transom wood into/onto the transom skin.

Don't over tighten the transom clamps & squeeze too much PB out & starve the joint.

Do i really need to put a COTTER pin into the threaded rod for the clamp? i dont have a drill press and i don't think i can drill a 1/8" hole into the side of it, wouldn't a nut work just fine?

The cotter pin locates & keeps the bolt in place in the 'fixed jaw' 2X4, the nuts get countersunk & epoxied into the far side of the other 'adjustable jaw' 2X4. If you use a nut instead, you'll need to use 2 & wedge them against each other (locked against 1 another) so the bolt will spin as you tighten the 'clamp' onto the transom. The gap between the 2X4 jaws of the clamp is about the same distance as your transom is thick. This should leave plenty of room between the jaws for 2 nuts locked together instead of a cotter pin.

Does that ^^^ make sense?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

You can use tape on the outside of the transom to keep the PB from oozing out to much. You can also use double nuts on the clamps.

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Theres a wicked thunderstorm going oin right now so i gotta get off the computer really fast, heres the pictures of my boat transom template, i made it out of drywall. What way should i cut the plywood, length wise or horizontal?

I uploaded all these to photobucket, hope it works. The transom fits so perfectly

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Well hello Boatgoat,

I finally got all caught up on your restoration...

You are doing a great job so far and you have some of the best assistants on the Forum already helping you out...

The only thing I can add at this time is this...

I noticed you mentioned that you are going through chip brushes really fast...

Here's a way to keep them around for a while...

Pour enough Acetone in a mixing cup to completely cover the bristles, as soon as you are done using the brush, wash it out really well with the Acetone...even after you do this, the brush will get a bit stiff when it dries out, but right before you need to use it again, just "soften" it up in some Acetone...

Keep up the great work.
GT1M

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Cutting the plywood for the transom can be done in any direction...

I would try to cut the sheet of plywood to give you the most pieces for your laminations...

Just noticed the last pic, if you can get all three pieces by turning the transom template the other way, that would work just fine...

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

BTW, the photobucket pics are working perfectly...

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

I would think it would be stronger laying down and can be cut in one piece . You were going to use muti layers of 3/8 " correct? Take into account the curve . It may make your pieces a little longer. Just a thought .. Maybe lay one down then stand the next one up and so on..

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

I don't know what thickness you have there but if you are going to end up using three pieces then cut two one way and one the other way so that each layer has the grain going in a different direction. Remember, you are going to have to put your end caps back on so keep that in mind as you are doing your transom. Mine kind of grew in thickness and I had to do some cutting and fabricating to get my ends back on.

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

Hmmm .. Good point Jon ! I forgot about the cap wrapping around like that. How thick was the original transom ?

 

[Jon Sob]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

The original was 1 1/2" but mine ended up at 2"

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

On another topic, what happend to Woodonglass? why is he banned? He gave everyone so much advice and now he's banned. Makes no sense

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

On another topic, what happend to Woodonglass? why is he banned? He gave everyone so much advice and now he's banned. Makes no sense

That is very sad news. For my part, I wish it had not happened, perhaps it can be reconciled. Tragic, will be a great loss

 

[sphelps]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

If you think 3 layers 3/8 would be strong enough that would leave you with 3/8 for laminating between wood and glass on the outside .
Prolly still end up with about 1-5/8 or 1-3/4.

BTW , I am also regretful on how the whole PT thing went down . I am just as much at fault as anyone . I know how I will treat threads like that from now on . If the op had acted like he is now it would have never of happened .
I already miss the old Okie !

 

[BoatgoatmfgVT]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

.

If you think 3 layers 3/8 would be strong enough that would leave you with 3/8 for laminating between wood and glass on the outside .
Prolly still end up with about 1-5/8 or 1-3/4.

BTW , I am also regretful on how the whole PT thing went down . I am just as much at fault as anyone . I know how I will treat threads like that from now on . If the op had acted like he is now it would have never of happened .
I already miss the old Okie !

. Hmmmmm,.... Jon sob says his transom was 1.5 inches originally, maybe ill add another piece of plywood and make it 4 pieces for the transom. That would be pretty strong. What do you mean by it will leave me 3/8 for laminating
Between wood and glass on the outside? You mean ill have that extra room to add more glass to the outside and inside? Also, how should I glue these pieces together? I. know it needs to be done one at a time, Do I need to use PB or could I just use woodglue to save on poly resin? I understand that using thePeanut butter would require me to glass a piece of csm to each piece of wood. After which I would lay the pb down and put the. Next piece of wood down. Should csm be glassed to each side of the pieces of plywood? Gosh, I wish I could find woodoglasses pictures, they were so helpful! I miss him too, he always chiimed in and was willing to help

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1960's 13' MFG carefree Rebuild (complete noob, i know nothing about this!)

These pix:

Give me some time & I'll try to come back to your other Q's