dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

[Woodonglass]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

2 ft span, 3/4" plywood, encased in Resin and 3 layers of CSM. Direction of Grain...NOT an issue JMHO!!!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

2 ft span, 3/4" plywood, encased in Resin and 3 layers of CSM. Direction of Grain...NOT an issue JMHO!!!

You'd be surprised.

Build it and it will sag over time, and feel spongy when stepped on.

If you can look at the subfloor in your house from underneath (cral space or unfinished basement/garage) notice how the plywood is laid on the joists... there's a reason for that, and it's a good one too.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

The grain of the plywood at a 90* angle to the framing members is carpentry 101.

Plywood is built with an uneven number of plies per sheet. 3,5, and 7 are the most commom. The 2 face side have the most numbers of plies running in that direction therefore making it stronger when laid at a 90* angle to the framing.

If plywood had an equal amont of number of plies alternating (and there are some special types that do) it wouldn't matter... but 99% of all the plywood you'll ever buy will be built with an odd number of plies alternating.

This all makes sense to me. My question for you is, covering the tank is about a 2' by 5' piece that will be supported all the way around. Do you believe it will still come into play here?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

This all makes sense to me. My question for you is, covering the tank is about a 2' by 5' piece that will be supported all the way around. Do you believe it will still come into play here?

Yes, run the grain port to starboard in the 2' direction just like the rest of it. Are you going to make this piece a removable hatch? I certainly would, not much sucks worse than having to rip up a new deck to access fuel tank problems.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

How was it covered before? Did it have any play? Before restoration, my tank was covered by a single sheet of 1/2" plywood, screwed into the fiberglass stringers and bulkheads. The only support was two 2x4s layed flat spanning the stringers.



It was extremely solid. With a layer of CSM on the underside and a couple layers of glass on top now, it's like a rock.

If you go to the Aurauco site, they have specs for their plywood, along with technical info that discusses maximum unsupported span, etc. I would guess most manufacturers have something similar available. I would use that as an outside parameter, and then beef it up as you see fit.

I'm kind of in agreement with jigngrub, but I think the strength gained from several layers of fiberglass probably compensate for the direction of the grain in plywood. When in doubt, though, it's better to overbuild than to underbuild...

Jim

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

The only support was two 2x4s layed flat spanning the stringers.

View attachment 193990

It was extremely solid. With a layer of CSM on the underside and a couple layers of glass on top now, it's like a rock.

Jim

The 2x4 nailers below are a good build and would enable the grain to be run stem to stern instead of port to starboard.

I'm not really crazy about the screws penetrating the glassed in stringers on that build though, I think I'd rather epoxy a couple of 2x2 ledgers to the stringers and then glass the 2x4s to the hatch cover.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'm not really crazy about the screws penetrating the glassed in stringers on that build though, I think I'd rather epoxy a couple of 2x2 ledgers to the stringers and then glass the 2x4s to the hatch cover.

In that case, you would REALLY not like how the rest of the deck (beyond the fuel tank cover) was attached: thickend resin and long staples! I wasn't too impressed with the staples, but I have to say, they didn't come out easily!

(Sorry, mwe-maxxowner, don't mean to be hijacking your thread!)

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Oh no no problem! I like the discussion. There were 2x2 nailers around the tank and the deck was screwed to the mailers and the rest of the stringers. The deck was also half inch.

I debated cutting a hatch, but that section is such a large part of the deck, I decided it would sacrifice too much strength for the area above the tank to not be a part of the deck. I planned to put a 6" access hole above the sending unit and leave it at that. I am open to suggestions here though.

I was planning on screwing and gluing 2x2 nailers all around to screw the deck to. Pre drill and fill the holes with 5200 where I screw the nailers to the stringers.

 

[sphelps]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

2 ft span, 3/4" plywood, encased in Resin and 3 layers of CSM. Direction of Grain...NOT an issue JMHO!!!

I agree . But thats with 3/4 ply .i would not do it with anything less . If you have room over the tank then a few 2x cleats would beef it up . On the other hand jig is right . Always run ply perpendicular to your framing . Both ways would be plenty strong .

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I have been planning on using 3/4 all along. That part won't change!

I want to know more about creating a tank hatch. I decided against it because this means the only area the deck would span all the way across the hull would be the front 4 or 5 feet of the deck. That section above the tank is such a large chunk of the deck I figured it would weaken things too much to have it made into a hatch.

If this is acceptable, I would love to be able to check the condition of the stringers under there and make sure all is dry once in a while!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

It won't be hard to make that whole piece an accessible hatch that'll be as strong as the deck... or maybe stronger and you won't even have to screw it down.

Like I said earlier, epoxy some 2x2 ledgers to the stringer. Then instead of fastening the 2x4s to the ledgers, fasten them to the hatch cover with epoxy or PL adhesive... then glass them over just like doing the transom. Then you can take some 3/4"x3/4"x 1/8 inch thick aluminum angle and fasten it to the perimeter of the cover, this will add rigidity and also extra support. I'll draw you up a little detail for this if you'd like, pictures are better than words for something like this eh? I don't have time tonight, but I'll whip you one out tomorrow afternoon if you're interested.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I'm very interested Mr jig! Thank you so much!

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Plllllleeeeeaaassseeeee!

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Well here it is:



If that drawing is too small to read I can PM you the full res document.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Wow, thanks! Are the 2x4's there to help transfer lateral forces from one tank side stringer to the other since there is no glassed in decking across them, in addition to keeping the hatch from sagging? Where would you recommend I search for the aluminum angle? I have a hardware store, home depot, and tractor supply close by off the top of my head.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Ace, HD & Tractor Supply all have angle here

 

[jigngrub]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Ace, HD & Tractor Supply all have angle here

I got mine at HD, they had 3/4"x3/4" in 1/8" and 1/16" thickness.

Wow, thanks! Are the 2x4's there to help transfer lateral forces from one tank side stringer to the other since there is no glassed in decking across them, in addition to keeping the hatch from sagging? Where would you recommend I search for the aluminum angle? I have a hardware store, home depot, and tractor supply close by off the top of my head.

The 2x4s will act as framing to stiffen the plywood when they're at rest on the 2x2 ledgers so you can turn the grain of the plywood lengthwise instead of having it running widthwise. They'll also add weight to the hatch cover to keep it in place, between the weight of the plywood, angle, and 2x4s this cover will be heavy and strong/durable.

You'll of course glass in the top of the hatch and can glass the bottom after the 2x4s are installed if you want, just keep an eye on your overall thickness of the hatch and adjust your 2x2 ledgers to compensate for the additional thickness of the glass.

You'll be able to walk and stomp on this hatch cover and it'll be just as strong as your decking... maybe a little stronger.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

I still have to install my tank enclosure, but it looks like clearance may be tight between my tank and deck height. Would laminating 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood together be as strong as the ply with the 2xs? If not I am at a point to rethink how my tank is mounted to compensate. I could alternate grain direction when I lam it.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

For once I got everything accomplished in a day I set out to! I got all my stringers capped, and man does it look good for those things to be completely glassed over.

Now I have to
-do a little cleaning with a grinder then paint my stringers
-glass in the 2x2 in the bottom center of my tank section
-seal and install 2x2 ledgers
-build up and fair my transom
-install my tank

Then I think I'm ready to cut deck templates and start on that!

Still lots of work to be done.

 

[mwe-maxxowner]

Re: dixie hustler "deck job" (turned full rebuild)

Got my first coat of paint on my stringers today. Probably unneeded, but it didn't cost a great deal of time or money. Also have my 2x2 ledgers cut to fit and sealed with 4 coats of spar urethane. I guess my next step is to finish designing whatever I do to mount my tank, finish glassijg that 2x2 you see in the center of the boat, then start cutting templates and a deck. I don't want to put the tank in until I am done glassing and painting the deck because I don't wanna step all over it. I'll run my hoses and wires andtest fit it, then leave it out till last.